Looking for Garand expert in So. Cent. PA area

[franklinman]

I've been thinking about getting one for some time now and while I have a lot of general firearms knowledge and experience I don't know a whole lot about Garands. I've read a good deal on the 'net about them and I've decided that I do want one. I see many at shows with prices all over the place but I'm not comfortable just buying one "off the rack". I'd really like to have one in .308 if possible. I hoping to link up with someone locally with some background with Garands that I could talk to and just sort of pick their brain for a bit. Thanks for any help.

[bamboomaster]

I've been thinking about getting one for some time now and while I have a lot of general firearms knowledge and experience I don't know a whole lot about Garands. I've read a good deal on the 'net about them and I've decided that I do want one. I see many at shows with prices all over the place but I'm not comfortable just buying one "off the rack". I'd really like to have one in .308 if possible. I hoping to link up with someone locally with some background with Garands that I could talk to and just sort of pick their brain for a bit. Thanks for any help.

Not an expert on these, but here's a general rule of mine:

Always measure the ME (muzzle erosion) and TE (throat erosion) on every .30 cal military rifle. That includes Krag's, '03's, 1917's, 03A3's, M1's, etc. The gauges, typically available at CMP and elsewhere run around $100 for both, but you'll use them for a long, long time. A lot of folks selling Garands or other 30 cal rifles show pictures of an inverted cartridge in the muzzle with 1/4 - 3/8" of the bullet still showing. Looks good so far, right? How do you know they used a .308 sized bullet? You don't - for maybe a .311 looks better in the pic.

Trust, but always verify. Get the dang gauges - it'll save you from a $1,000 mistake. I never buy a military collectible/shooter with a TE greater than 1 or an ME greater than 2. Doesn't mean higher measurements (like a TE of 3 and an ME of 6) aren't good shooters, but the barrel will have a shorter life-span.

No need to buy a Garand with more than its fair share of "honest war marks" and no cartouches. There are many Garands coming to the market that have been owned for 30 or 40 years in great condition and the seller is converting assets to cash in order to pay for medical bills - as sadly, we all will one day, especially if we don't take care of our health.

Assuming the same condition, the Garands in 7.62x51 are going to be more expensive because of their relative rarity.

However, if you reload, finding the right .30-06 load that is accurate as hell is straight forward and the .30-06 Garands are plentiful...

Just a thought....

[R L Suehr]

Excellent advice above. I'll just add, if you're really big on .308, I would consider a M1A over the garand. You'll probably pay as much if not more for a x51 garand as a new M1A.

[bamboomaster]

I'll just add, if you're really big on .308, I would consider a M1A over the garand. You'll probably pay as much if not more for a x51 garand as a new M1A.

THIS! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[MT1]

If you're looking for a shooter, I recommend taking a look at the CMP Special. This is one way the "amateur" can avoid buying a rifle with excessive throat erosion. The CMP Special is built on a surplus Springfield receiver with new barrel and new wood. It is the closest you can come to buying a brand new M1 Garand. I bought mine about 5 years ago. At the time they cost $995 plus about $25 in shipping. Mine doesn't have any historical value but it is in 100% condition.

They come in either 30-06 or .308. Unfortunately, right now both are listed as out of stock but I would wait for one of these before buying a surplus unless you want something with greater historical value.

http://thecmp.org/cmp_sales/rifle_sa...arand/#Special

[LTCcarrier]

I've been thinking about getting one for some time now and while I have a lot of general firearms knowledge and experience I don't know a whole lot about Garands. I've read a good deal on the 'net about them and I've decided that I do want one. I see many at shows with prices all over the place but I'm not comfortable just buying one "off the rack". I'd really like to have one in .308 if possible. I hoping to link up with someone locally with some background with Garands that I could talk to and just sort of pick their brain for a bit. Thanks for any help.

You need to call the CMP and see when they expect to get rifles in stock. I bought service grade and they are fine shooters.

[Delkal]

Trust, but always verify. Get the dang gauges - it'll save you from a $1,000 mistake. I never buy a military collectible/shooter with a TE greater than 1 or an ME greater than 2. Doesn't mean higher measurements (like a TE of 3 and an ME of 6) aren't good shooters, but the barrel will have a shorter life-span.

I agree with the rest of your post but not that part. If you only buy Garands with a TE< 1 you don't have many or you only buy recently rebuilt rifles with new barrels. It is well documented that many WW-II era rifles were ISSUED with TE's more than that. Anything under a TE of 5 is still in normal military spec, up to ten where it was recalled and rebuilt. As a rough rule of thumb it is 1000 rounds per TE so most people can buy a rifle with a TE of four, shoot all they can, then give it to their grandkids. And how many people are going to buy a $100 gauge to try it.

I can not think of a real situation where a higher TE will cost you $1000. A basic shooter mixmaster Garand will cost you $1000, A more correct original one $1500-2000. No one is going to sell you an almost correct rifle with an original barrel for $500. Even if it is a sewer pipe. Garands over that are valuable for their rarity and not as shooters. I am not saying a high dollar rare Garand can not go for $1000 more with 2 people on Gunbroker. Its just not true for 98% of the rifles out there.

For someone looking for a Garand I would recommend bringing their own .308 bullet and doing their own muzzle test. Its not as exact but close enough and this is way more important for accuracy. If the bullet drops to the cannuler pass, to 1/8 be cautious, 1/4+ and your good.

[bortle]

Excellent advice above. I'll just add, if you're really big on .308, I would consider a M1A over the garand. You'll probably pay as much if not more for a x51 garand as a new M1A.

I agree with this, Garands are 30-06. An '06 semi is awesome to shoot. Get a M1A, AR10 or a FAL for 308 goodness

[R L Suehr]

I agree with this, Garands are 30-06. An '06 semi is awesome to shoot. Get a M1A, AR10 or a FAL for 308 goodness

My choice for an 06 semi.


If I only had the $$$$.

[ALS]

If you get one I can recommend a guy just over the border in Maryland. Charles only works on Garands and M1A's and being he is semi retired he isn't bad on price since he works out of his house. I had him rebarrel my Springfield Armory Super Match with a Kreiger a few years ago. I handed him the gun and he told me to go have lunch and it would be ready when I got back and it was. He is a Certified National Match Gunsmith.

He's located just to the west of Baltimore Maryland in Catonsville about one hour from you.

charliemaloney

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