Anyone know how to intsall a spikes 22 full auto?

[mikepro8]

A friend of mine recently got all his necessary paperwork and bought a Spike's full auto conversion kit with his full auto M4. The problem is, he bought the conversion kit some time ago and it did not come with any directions... can anyone help?

[Yellowfin]

Either the kit or the receiver of the gun has to have been full auto before May of 1986. Does he know that? You can't make a new one legally.

[JayBell]

Either the kit or the receiver of the gun has to have been full auto before May of 1986. Does he know that? You can't make a new one legally.

a spikes conversion is a 22 caliber conversion upper for a m16 thats already full auto, it doesn't make anything thats not full auto a machinegun. If hes thinkin he can pt this on a semi and make a machinegun, hes SOL.


a spikes kit is basically a ceiner kit, and, frankly, your buddy should call spikes, they do help out over the phone.

[Steelblitz]

Yeah, but he got "all his necessary paperwork."

I'm confused as to what your buddy actually got. I got a Spikes 22lr conversion kit. I know they offer one model for auto and for semi. The one offered for autos is not a regulated item, no more than the Colt factory BCG's are, and neither will make a semi put out multiple bangs with a single function of the trigger on their own.

The kits are basically plug and play, no different than swapping out bcg's. I just dropped mine in after oiling it and went to town blasting away with it. I had no malfunctions so there wasnt a need to switch springs.

[Asmodeus6]

A friend of mine recently got all his necessary paperwork and bought a Spike's full auto conversion kit. The problem is, he bought it some time ago and it did not come with any directions... can anyone help?

The thin clip on shroud part (trip) hooks in underneath. Tabs in the groove of the bolt rail, tamped portion in front of the part of the bolt that cycles. The ball detent and spring go in the hole in the side of the spikes bolt where it interfaces where the notch in the rail is cut. You will need to install this into the bolt then slide it back in the rail. This can be tricky. The bounce weight goes on the top side of the bolt rail behind the bolt that cycles. There is a notch cut in the tail of the bolt and it just slides into place from the side on the rail and is stopped by that notch.

Nothing really keeps any of this stuff in place very well so it can be a loose handful of parts until you get it all in the weapon.

If you did not buy the necessary parts to use the conversion in a full auto weapon they are $20-30 from spikes. If the weapon is not FA - as mentioned you are wasting your time. This stuff will also not work with a lightning link, they are designed to work with the traditional sear system in a registered lower and possibly a RDIAS. Although I do not know for certain.

[mikepro8]

a spikes conversion is a 22 caliber conversion upper for a m16 thats already full auto, it doesn't make anything thats not full auto a machinegun. If hes thinkin he can pt this on a semi and make a machinegun, hes SOL.


a spikes kit is basically a ceiner kit, and, frankly, your buddy should call spikes, they do help out over the phone.

He is in LE, he bought it along with a full auto M4, so no issue there. We checked Spike's website, but can't seem to locate even an email or a phone number. Any ideas?

In speaking to him, he was trying to install it on one of his semi-auto rifles (and the fact it wont work full auto makes sense, now that I am reading it).

We (he) still doesnt know how to put all the parts on the bolt to install even in his full auto or semi auto rifle... there is the bolt, a tiny ball, two tiny springs and two other metal parts - one U shaped and the other is rectangular.

Anyone know how those parts assemble on the bolt?

[mikepro8]

The thin clip on shroud part (trip) hooks in underneath. Tabs in the groove of the bolt rail, tamped portion in front of the part of the bolt that cycles. The ball detent and spring go in the hole in the side of the spikes bolt where it interfaces where the notch in the rail is cut. You will need to install this into the bolt then slide it back in the rail. This can be tricky. The bounce weight goes on the top side of the bolt rail behind the bolt that cycles. There is a notch cut in the tail of the bolt and it just slides into place from the side on the rail and is stopped by that notch.

Nothing really keeps any of this stuff in place very well so it can be a loose handful of parts until you get it all in the weapon.

If you did not buy the necessary parts to use the conversion in a full auto weapon they are $20-30 from spikes. If the weapon is not FA - as mentioned you are wasting your time. This stuff will also not work with a lightning link, they are designed to work with the traditional sear system in a registered lower and possibly a RDIAS. Although I do not know for certain.

Thanks!!! the only thing I could ask for is pictures... could you PM me any?

[Asmodeus6]

No I don't have any sorry.

The "U" shaped piece the "U" faces forward. Towards the barrel. It sits on the top of the bolt guide rails. The thin sear trip has two tabs. These go in the two spots in the rear of the bolt guide rails that matches. The tamped in portion that looks like a "W" on this sits IN FRONT of the bottom of the bolt that cycles. It just kinda sits there. Nothing really keeping it on. If you hold the pieces in your hand it will make sense. The ball and detent spring go in the side of the bolt (that cycles) and you slide it on the rail and that is what keeps it in place. Look for the "half ball" shaped divit in the bolt guide rail to see the corresponding place on the bolt for it to go.

If he does not have an M16 or RDIAS. Which at this point whether he is LE or not I don't think he does. None of this will do you any good.

The cylinder looking piece of metal with a small hole in it and pin is to block the gas tube hole for a "permanent" conversion. So it doesn't blow .22LR junk into your gun. If you are going to dedicate an upper to this conversion, it would be wise to do this.

It is unnecessary and unrelated to making the bolt function in semi, or automatic modes however.

I think you get an extra spring. (for the ball detent) as you also get 2 recoil springs.

[cdi]

I just finished a Spikes dedicated .22 kit in full auto. You can find excellent tips and photos on AR15.com. They are in the armory AR15 section under conversion kits.

Photos of where the ball detent and spring are there also. The upper I assembled needed the sear trip timing adjusted and several other issues addressed before it would run.

It uses a Colt M16a1 lower and Black Dog mags. It was a real trial and error pain in the ass to get running. Spikes will help out over the phone or take the whole thing and make it run run for you if you send it to them.

[mikepro8]

I just finished a Spikes dedicated .22 kit in full auto. You can find excellent tips and photos on AR15.com. They are in the armory AR15 section under conversion kits.

Photos of where the ball detent and spring are there also. The upper I assembled needed the sear trip timing adjusted and several other issues addressed before it would run.

It uses a Colt M16a1 lower and Black Dog mags. It was a real trial and error pain in the ass to get running. Spikes will help out over the phone or take the whole thing and make it run run for you if you send it to them.

Thanks for the tip!