what went wrong? pics included

[AR-15 Outlaw]

If you are shaving the copper on seating you are not belling enough. Period. The bullet should sit in the casing without you holding it.

i had a feeling that was part of it. i actually enjoy loading for my ar and .308 but this straight wall pistol stuff isnt seeming as enjoyable for me. hopefully that changes after i get the bugs worked out.

You should be able to shoot the one's you have without issue.

glad to hear that lol im out of bullet tips and factory ammo these are all i got untill i manage to get my hands on some more bullet tips.

Loading longer in rifles.....up against the lands can increase pressure in rifles. In most auto pistols you can load mag length and not touch the the lands and pressure is typically less than the shorter factory offerings. Loading short with fast powders like Clays can cause problems.

i had good results loading my .308 a little long. i think my ar would benefit from a longer loading also but i cant due to mag size altho there is a lip in the mag i been thinking of modifying so i could load a tiny bit longer.

One of the best tricks of reloading is tailoring OAL to what your gun likes. You can exponentially increase reliability this way. Of course, you have a Glock......

Lycankeepaskingthrope

i've been working on that. i tried atleast 15 different loads for my ar before finding one i'd settle with. now as for the glock comment coudlnt tell if you were saying "its a glock so it should be reliable pretty much nomatter what" or "its a glock you can forget reliability its plastic" lol some love em some hate em

[AR-15 Outlaw]

I would'nt shoot them if they are not properly crimped, bullet setback=trouble.

they will be crimped before shot. my lee factory crimp is schedualed to be delivered wednesday

[arjohnson]

i had a feeling that was part of it. i actually enjoy loading for my ar and .308 but this straight wall pistol stuff isnt seeming as enjoyable for me. hopefully that changes after i get the bugs worked out.

Loading straight wall pistol cases are very easy once you get set up properly, nice thing is no case trimming, no sizing lube. You will be a pro in no time.

I found it to be more of a pain loading bottle neck rifle cartridges, or at least there's more involved compared to pistol rounds.

[arjohnson]

they will be crimped before shot. my lee factory crimp is schedualed to be delivered wednesday

Then you will be good to go.

[Lycanthrope]

He IS crimped. .419 is freakin' crimped! Crimped too much in my opinion. Anything at .419 at case mouth doesn't need redone.

Besides.....a taper crimp doesn't stop setback. Case tension does. I shot Sinterfire bullets for years (like 30,000 rounds) without issue using the U and standard RCBS dies. He can always chamber them a couple times and remeasure, but with his casing measurements I wager its a moot point.

For .223 load mag length with 69gr SMK in 1:9 and 77gr Nosler Custom comps in the 1:7. I have a Lee FCD, but never really needed it in the AR.

I'm a 1911 guy, but I have a Glock too. It's actually less reliable than my 2011, but I never did tailor the OAL to the G35.

Lycanthereyagothrope

[arjohnson]

He IS crimped. .419 is freakin' crimped! Crimped too much in my opinion. Anything at .419 at case mouth doesn't need redone.

Besides.....a taper crimp doesn't stop setback. Case tension does. I shot Sinterfire bullets for years (like 30,000 rounds) without issue using the U and standard RCBS dies. He can always chamber them a couple times and remeasure, but with his casing measurements I wager its a moot point.

For .223 load mag length with 69gr SMK in 1:9 and 77gr Nosler Custom comps in the 1:7. I have a Lee FCD, but never really needed it in the AR.

I'm a 1911 guy, but I have a Glock too. It's actually less reliable than my 2011, but I never did tailor the OAL to the G35.

Lycanthereyagothrope

SORRY did'nt pay attention to the dimensions he gave, only looked at the pics and figured out what the problem was. Now I'll back out of the thread and leave it to the pros

[Lycanthrope]

SORRY did'nt pay attention to the dimensions he gave, only looked at the pics and figured out what the problem was. Now I'll back out of the thread and leave it to the pros

Oh now.....don't be like that. I wasn't chastising. If it came off that way, I formally apologize. Really. Rep your way in an offering of peace.

OK...here is how I see it. You can understand the problem and how the ammo/gun functions or you can just follow "instruction".

He's new. He's reading up and learning, but he's not conceptualizing how the process works. He has a .419 cartridge ad now he's going to set a die to crimp that.......how does that work? You can crimp too deep and screw up the accuracy or have bullets come apart.

Sizing die resizes the case due to the expansion of firing and slight undersize won't hurt you. Some dies are shaved at the bottom so they size the whole way to the rim. This is sometimes necessary when sizing casings from unsupported chambers like Glocks. Glocks bulge the casings at the bottom where they are not supported. This will weaken the case there eventually and they can blow out with hotter loads after a while.

Belling flares the casing so the bullet will seat while not being deformed or shaved.

Seating depth will affect pressure and feeding.

Crimping an auto....you're just taking out the bell to help feeding. In a heavy revolver you need a roll crimp into the cannelure so the bullets do not walk forward under recoil and lock the gun up.

Lycantryingtojustaddvaluethrope

[arjohnson]

Oh now.....don't be like that. I wasn't chastising. If it came off that way, I formally apologize. Really. Rep your way in an offering of peace.

OK...here is how I see it. You can understand the problem and how the ammo/gun functions or you can just follow "instruction".

He's new. He's reading up and learning, but he's not conceptualizing how the process works. He has a .419 cartridge ad now he's going to set a die to crimp that.......how does that work? You can crimp too deep and screw up the accuracy or have bullets come apart.

Sizing die resizes the case due to the expansion of firing and slight undersize won't hurt you. Some dies are shaved at the bottom so they size the whole way to the rim. This is sometimes necessary when sizing casings from unsupported chambers like Glocks. Glocks bulge the casings at the bottom where they are not supported. This will weaken the case there eventually and they can blow out with hotter loads after a while.

Belling flares the casing so the bullet will seat while not being deformed or shaved.

Seating depth will affect pressure and feeding.

Crimping an auto....you're just taking out the bell to help feeding. In a heavy revolver you need a roll crimp into the cannelure so the bullets do not walk forward under recoil and lock the gun up.

Lycantryingtojustaddvaluethrope

Sorry, just took it the wrong way. I do understand what you are saying but I was just trying to keep it simple. I also really did'nt pay attention to the dimensions given. I seen him mention that he did not crimp at all, so I should have read the rest before commenting.

Beleive me I went through the same thing when I first started reloading 20+ years ago, I just was trying to explain it as simple as possible. I did it with no luxury of help, it was all reading loading manuals and trial and error. Now it's to the point I can get any info from a few minutes on the internet, which is a nice luxury to have.

Thanks and no hard feelings

[Lycanthrope]

Thanks and no hard feelings

Nah, I'm not like that.

Lycanroomontheinternetforallofusthrope

[Philadelphia]

This is becoming a fun thread. I'm picking up some tidbits too.

Here's a concept I learned a while ago to pass along about setback and crimp:

For auto rounds, more crimp is not the solution to prevent setback. Crimp is needed to return the round to the proper size and shape to chamber and properly headspace. That's it. Any more and you are deforming the bullet (don't forget that to make the inside diameter of the brass smaller than the bullet diameter after seating, due to the differences in springback between the brass and the bullet, that would require that you actually crush the bullet a bit -- that is not good and will actually reduce neck tension plus harm accuracy). When settup up crimp, go easy and use calipers. Revolver bullets with cannelures are a different story.

Neck tension prevents setback. You can test neck tension with the thumb test. Measure OAL. Place your thumb on the case head with the bullet on a scale. Press down with about 25 lbs force. Measure. Do again at 40 lbs. The bullet no move. That's why you need a press to get a bullet in a properly sized case.