Looking for a good 308 load for bolt gun.

[JLR666]

Im looking for a good 308 load to use in a Tikka T3. Ill be shooting 150's and don't want a compressed load. I have a good shooting load but it's a compressed one. Thanks Jeff

[animalmother85]

http://reloadersnest.com/query_bw.as...lletWeight=150


hope that helps.

[Xringshooter]

Just a word of warning. When getting load data from someone off the internet, check your reloading manuals to insure it is not possibly harmful. That is why the manuals have a starting and max load. The companies have put extentsive testing into the loads they publish. Experienced handloaders may play a bit with loads but they almost always start with the published data and go from there. They load a few rounds and go out and chronograph them, note the accuracy, inspect the fired cases for any unusual signs, check the primer for overpressure signs, etc. Also, a load that works in one persons gun, even if it is the same make and model, may work completely different in your gun due to any number of reasons.

I'm not saying that loads that someone gives you may be bad, but how many people are on the net that can respond and what is their experience? Just verify any loads that are given.

Also, you said you have a good load but it is compressed. If it is under the max pressure and is accurate, so what? There are many loads out there for rifles and handguns that are compressed loads. Reloading manuals will even tell you if it is a compressed load.

I have worked up loads for a few of my guns, (I've been reloading since 1973-74, don't know exactly when I started) but I won't give them out unless I am sure they won't hurt any modern gun, and I warn the user to check to make sure their gun will handle it before using. For example, I used a load that was used extensively for competition, probably 98% of the guys I shot with used the same load - .38 Special cases, Federal Small Pistol Primers, 148 gr HBWC (hollow base wadcutters) and 2.5 to 2.7 grs. of RedDot, bullet seated almost flush to flush with the case mouth. This pushed the bullet at just over 700 fps, next to no recoil, wasn't too dirty and was very accurate, even out to 50 yds. I have no problem giving this load out, I've seen it in use with a lot of guns and it is really a mild load.

I would just hate to have someone take a load that someone gave them, even here at PaFOA, and use it without doing any checking and get a big kaboom that ruins their gun and possibly their day (or longer).

Stay safe and have fun working up loads for your gun(s).

[JLR666]

I hear ya Xring, always have to be safe. I'm just looking for some pointers more or less. I just don't want to use a compressed load, and figured someone would have a good load I could use as a start to get one figured out for my gun. I've got several load books but real world testing is in my mind better than the books. Cause we all don't have perfect conditions and a gun built into a machine.

[animalmother85]

**Make sure you cross reference with some reputable literature(forgotten caveat that should have followed my first post on this thread).

[Xringshooter]

I've got several load books but real world testing is in my mind better than the books. Cause we all don't have perfect conditions and a gun built into a machine.

I understand what you're saying, but you really have to see everything that goes on behind the scene (I have been privileged to see some of it a few years ago at CCI-Speer). Although most think of the pressure test barrels and the underground, climate controlled, no wind shooting ranges; that is not the only testing they do. They take their test loads out into the different climates (cold and humid, hot and dry, hot and humid, etc.) and test them in actual conditions to correlate the test data. Powders react differently when they are very hot, very cold, damp, extremely dry and the manual writers (munitions scientists basically) take all that into account. Remember the loads in the books are loads that should work good in any gun, under the typical shooting conditions. The best thing you can do is to take a load from the manual for the particular bullet that you are going to shoot and start there. See what it does in your backyard (so to speak) and work a load from there. That's one of the fun parts of reloading, finding that magical load that makes your particular gun the proverbial tack driver. And then, when that canister of powder runs out and you get a different lot number, you start all over again, because a different lot number of the exact same powder may have minute changes that can make your pet load null and void. That's why many times benchrest shooters will buy large amounts of the same lot number powder, store it under ideal conditions (or as close as they can get) to be able to consistently duplicate their best load(s).

[Tim Ault]

Take a look at Reloader 15 in the 308 started using it a few yrs back and Now that is my favorite in that caliber. BTW what is the reason you are shying away from a compressed load? Some powders perform wonderfully when slightly compressed.

[JLR666]

Compressed loads just don't sit right with me. Not really sure why but just don't care to use'em.

[dodge]

I use Varget but I also use 165 grain bullet. I've tried 4064 another good powder but Varget shot a little tighter group out of my rifle. One of the reasons I use 165's is that is what I use in my 30-06 so to keep the amount of bullets that I have on hand to a minimum I just stayed with what I had on hand.