SA says no conversions

[CoreXD40]

So today I finally picked up my Springfield Armory 1911 loaded. I was going to trade in my S&W 22a on a kimber 22 conversion upper eventually, but was reading in the manual that they say not to use any kit cause the firing pin protrudes to far back. Does anyone have this model, and if so has anyone tried to use a 22 conversion kit with it? Also what lube do you suggest I use for this pistol, I'm a rem oil fan but I put it on and it disappears.

any and all responses are much appreciated, as i am new to the 1911 world, so far I love this pistol

[he11zna]

Sorry, no info on .22lr conversions for 1911's, but...

Does your SA Loaded have a parkerized finish?

If so, you might want to check out this link:
http://xavierthoughts.blogspot.com/2...-vs-tales.html


He talks about parkerizing as a finish that "holds" lube.
I personally have never done the old "grease & bake", but some swear by it on a parkerized gun.

On the exterior of my 1911, no matter how much I wipe it down with CLP, it definitely absorbs the stuff.

I don't see it as a bad thing, as it should be protecting it from corrosion.

[JLR666]

A buddy of mine has the Kimber kit and he uses it with his SA Gi 1911. And has no problem I'd says he's put 4 or 5 thousand rounds through it with no problems.

[CoreXD40]

thanks for the info thus far. it is in fact a parkerized finish. I have sprayed it down like crazy with lube, and it appears to still be extremely dry. It being a brand new pistol, and i haven't even fired it yet, I just want to be sure the first time I do it will function as well as possible. I just figured if it keeps soaking up the lube, and there isn't any on the sureface it wouldn't take to many rounds to cause binding from it being dry. but if it's normal, guess theres not much to do about it.

[Brick]

Time out kid, you've got me really confused. (not that that is hard to do anymore) The pistol you refer to is a 1911 clone right? And if you loosen the bushing and remove the slide stop, the bushing, barrel, recoil spring and slide including the firing pin and extractor come off the frame as a unit right? You're left with the frame including the trigger and hammer assembly with the sear and disconnector and thumb and grip safeties all together as a unit right?

Now the Kimber, Ciener and Marvel conversion units are all complete slide assemblies with their own barrel, recoil spring and firing pin. They just slide onto the frame and are secured in place by replacing the slide stop or whatever depending on the unit. So what has the length of the factory firing pin got to do with anything? It's not even part of the "converted" assembly.

Nothing wrong with Rem Oil, works fine. As for lubing the 1911, you'll want a few drops along the rails (or use a good gun grease) some oil on the barrel hood and at the barrel end where it mates with the bushing. You don't need to soak the outside of the gun, it will just attract dirt and make the gun disagreeable to handle.

Have fun!

[Grumpa72]

Call me a contrarian but Springfield specifically advises against this and you ask others on this forum if it is ok? I would venture a guess that the manufacturer of the gun has a very good reason for suggesting that you not do this. On the other hand, what do I know? I usually read instruction manuals and believe what they say!

[Lycanthrope]

Sounds like SA is saying that "some" aftermarket .22 conversions have the firing pin in a position where the hammer will not fall to half-cock should the sear fail. Pretty rare, IMHO, and I think it sounds like just a liability disclaimer.

Isn't the Kimber unit just a Ciener? I'm pretty sure, but I'd have to look it up. The best .22 conversion I ever shot was the Marvel, btu they do cost some dough.

As for a lube that stays......

LycanWeaponShieldthrope

[CoreXD40]

Thanks again. I am talking about a 1911 clone, and I was confused as to why SA suggested not to use the conversion units. I am thinking it is a liability thing. I figure as long as the weapon is pointed down range, and is only loaded when pointing in a safe direction, there shouldn't be much of a safety issue. As for the lube, I've tore the weapon down completely and layed it on a stainless steel table, and I have been spraying it with rem oil like 3-4 times a day. I think it's finally impregnated the parkerized coating, and beginning to just lay on top. Tomorrow I will have the opertunity to shoot her FINALLY. It's been much anticipated. Now that I have the pistol I can save for groceries!

[Lycanthrope]

Remoil is a low grade lubricant.



Lycanteflonisuselessthrope

[Charlie De]

I don't understand why you would want to do this. The S&W has a good reputation. Why would you chance voiding the warranty on your brand new gun to create something you already have? Isn't taking a second gun out of your range bag easier than taking one gun apart and changing parts? If you have money burning a hole in your pocket, I'm sure someone can suggest an improvement to your Loaded SA.

So what is a high quality lubricant?