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Thread: Wolf junk
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September 21st, 2009, 04:38 AM #1
Wolf junk
I just spent 2 hours cleaning red and purple junk out of my chamber after 100 rds of Wolf .223...never again...I'm pretty sure its causing cycling problems too. What is that red crap and how do I clean it better and faster?
How pissed are you gonna be if you die before the Zombie Apocalypse comes? - - IANAL
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September 21st, 2009, 04:52 AM #2
Re: Wolf junk
It is the bullet and primer sealant. That is what generally causes issues with extraction, not the "lacquer" coating on the casing. Was it older Wolf? I understand that lately they have not been using such copious amounts of it. It also depends on the plant it was made in. I'm not sure which plants make it and which are better than which but I do recall seeing a listing and comparison of which plant made which and the Russian Tula factory seems to be the worst of them. If I come across the guide again I will let you know.
Warning: I may not read responses to OP before posting
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September 21st, 2009, 08:25 AM #3
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September 21st, 2009, 10:59 AM #4Senior Member
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Re: Wolf junk
I haven't see Wolf with a lacquer coating in a long time, I'm surprised it still comes up in every Wolf ammo thread.
FWIW, "higher end" ammo such as Prvi M193 will still have you cleaning out red flakes in your AR, especially the bolt face.
This is from the primer sealant, as somebody has already said.
I believe Wolf has a bullet sealant as well, which would get more "red flakes" in your chamber as you have said.
Other than being dirtier, many people including myself, have never had a problem with Wolf ammo...In any firearm.
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September 21st, 2009, 11:23 AM #5
Re: Wolf junk
Wolf is pretty much all i shoot out of mine any more. Cant afford to replace the good brass stuff for what i paid for it.
Some of the my old Wolf stuff has the laquer on but feeds fine. The newer stuff is the smoother coated, no shine to the case, that stuff works great too. Just keep it wet with some CLP when shooting. When cleaning, i just hit with a shot of break cleaner, an air line, and then CLP for oil/lube. Never had a problem with my finish.
Brown Bear seems to have the laquer on it. I have over 2k rounds of that thru my AR with no problems other than a dirty weapon. Just keep it wet.
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September 21st, 2009, 12:20 PM #6
Re: Wolf junk
I've shot well over 100rds of Wold during a range trip. For plinking and general range drills, it works just fine. If you decide to play Rambo and fire mag, after mag....after mag.....carbon wil build up in the chamber due to the steel case not sealing as well as a brass case, and you can get issues.
Stop, clean the chamber.........fire away.
This is a crappy picture (taken with cell phone) and you can see the carbon on the Wolf case. I fired several magazines rather quickly, then let the next chambered round sit in the rifle while I changed the target. On the next trigger pull the round went bang, but I got a FTE.
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September 21st, 2009, 12:22 PM #7
Re: Wolf junk
IMO Wolf should ONLY be used in AK's.
WAKE UP OR WACO!
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September 21st, 2009, 12:52 PM #8Active Member
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Re: Wolf junk
Eh, I shoot everything out of my AR. right now I have a bit over 1000rds of wolf through it and never had an issue. Just clean it when your done. I usually shoot a few hundred rounds every time I go out, and not once had a jam of any sort.
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September 21st, 2009, 01:06 PM #9
Re: Wolf junk
I shoot Wolf by the case. AR / AK. It's cheap and it goes bang. I don't sit at a bench fiddling my balls and trying to shoot .25" MOA groups with it... so I don't really care if it's accuracy / velocity is slightly substandard.
I usually finish the day with a mag of brass to suck the dirt out of the chamber. It's noticeably more powerful. But aside from the primer sealer... it's just as dirty. At least the Federal bulk is.
But instead of costing .2X a round it's .4X a round. That means I can shoot twice as much. And since I don't reload... steel case is the logical choice for plinking / training / etc.
If you DO shoot a lot of it. Remove your firing pin and blast CLP or equiv down the firing pin hole in the bolt face. It builds up around the back side of the pin hole. If you strip most of the head off of a Q-tip, you can get at it from the back once it's wet.
PS: If you don't want the ammo. I'll be more than happy to pay for the shipping and shoot it for you.Last edited by Asmodeus6; September 21st, 2009 at 01:11 PM.
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September 21st, 2009, 01:19 PM #10
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