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Thread: Question on reloading
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September 9th, 2009, 10:26 AM #1
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September 9th, 2009, 12:11 PM #2
Re: Question on reloading
I'ed just expand a few. Then put a bit more of a taper crimp on them. Super's don't like a roll crimp (no auto does) but mine like a good taper crimp. I load 125 LRN, 130FMJ, and 147 LTC and FMJ. All with a full taper crimp and don't have any trouble. They do seem to jam up when I used a light crimp.
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September 9th, 2009, 03:59 PM #3
Re: Question on reloading
Are they rounds reloads? If so what is the diameter of the bullets. The .38 Super needs a .356 diameter bullet. Mine works best with a .356. it also works with a .355 but it is not as accurate. my .38 Super will not function with .357 bullets. I believe they are too large of a diameter and enlarge the case somewhat causing the pistol failure to chamber.
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September 9th, 2009, 04:06 PM #4
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September 9th, 2009, 04:17 PM #5
Re: Question on reloading
Sounds like the pistol is not going into battery. My guess would be to taper crimp a little more. Perhaps there is just a little flare still on the mouth. Another thought, and just my two cents; I have never had abny luck with Oregon Trail bullets. I have tried the .30 cal, .45 for my .45-70, and .variuos .35 cals. None of them shot any accuracy. Not even close to what I would consider decent results. Mike the bullets and see what you get. perhaps they are not .356.
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September 9th, 2009, 04:22 PM #6
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September 9th, 2009, 04:50 PM #7
Re: Question on reloading
At the widest point of the bullet.
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September 9th, 2009, 04:55 PM #8
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September 9th, 2009, 07:14 PM #9
Re: Question on reloading
Taz if your .356" bullets are really .365" no wonder the slide won't go into battery! There shouldn't really be a "widest" spot on your bullets after the curve of the ogive or the taper of the cone meet the shoulder the sides of the bullet from shoulder to base should be straight and parallel. Measure the diameter at the base but above any bevel that might be there.
If they measure correctly you can reuse them as long as they aren't mis-shaped (like squeezed to coke bottle shape from over crimping) or damaged.
Use your primed brass and re-flare, powder charge anew and re-seat & re-crimp the bullets. Then dismount the barrel from your Baer and use the barrel as a case gauge. Holding the barrel with the chamber up just drop a cartridge into the chamber. A good cartridge will slide right into place with the rim at or slighlty below the barrel hood. A bad cartridge will stick up above the hood indicating that the round will not chamber and the slide will not go into battery. Typical faults that could cause this are oversized bullets, cases too long, inadaquate crimp. In any event since you're loading that caliber for only the one pistol, use the dismounted barrel to check all of your reloaded rounds before you box them. It's just good practice.
"Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities".
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September 11th, 2009, 09:21 AM #10
Re: Question on reloading
Yes, that is plenty big enough to make a difference! Although powder charge can vary slightly from round to round, as can OAL, bullet diameter should not really vary at all. I've never heard of such a large variation from stated diameters before. I also don't know if I've ever heard of a caliber that takes .365" bullets (in case you accidentally bought the wrong type or something).
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