S&W Revolver misfires

**Brick** · May 9th, 2007, 07:11 PM

Today a friend and I were discussing misfires that always seem to happen during a critical string in an IDPA match. Anyhow I head off to the range and decide to try some speed shooting with my S&W Mod. 10-8. Up to now that revolver had always gone bang when I pulled the trigger, except for a couple primers that got seated sideways without me noticing. So I try a cylinder full of my own reloads, as fast as I can pull the trigger and get a misfire. Out of the next 14 full cylinder loads, whenever I tried to fire as fast as possible at least one and sometimes two misfires, all of which fired on the second hammer strike either double action or single action. When I slowed down to a slower pace (say about like Bullseye rapid fire tempo) no misfires.

I'm sure the primers are OK, I'm sure they were seated correctly.

So is it possible that part of the revolver mechanism (like the safety block) isn't getting out of the way fast enough for a full hammer strike when shooting at speed?

**Steve in PA** · May 9th, 2007, 07:53 PM

You are more than likely short stroking the trigger.

**BearTitan** · May 9th, 2007, 09:41 PM

I agree. You have got to let the trigger come all the way forward in between shots.

You must have been smokin' those rounds!

**Lougotzz** · May 9th, 2007, 09:51 PM

Take off your grips and see if the hammer spring screw is loose. It is the screw under the grip.

**God's Country** · May 9th, 2007, 09:54 PM

Originally Posted by Steve in PA

You are more than likely short stroking the trigger.

Absolutley. The only time I've had a misfire with any revolver was when my finger is moving faster then my brain.

**Brick** · May 10th, 2007, 07:15 PM

I know dry firing isn't the same as live fire, but I just tried purposely short stroking the M10. I notice 2 stages of re-engagement (clicks) when the trigger is released after the second click, the trigger is fully released and starting trigger pull fully raises the hammer and rotates the cylinder, completing the pull drops the hammer. If I start the trigger pull at the first click, the whole mechanism locks up until I fully release and start over. If I start the trigger pull before the first click, either the cylinder doesn't rotate or the hammer doesn't raise. The hammer spring screw is OK, in fact I tightened it a bit more during the exercise.

I have some habits left over from years of bullseye shooting that I am trying to get over so I want to re-train myself to get 6 shots off, stay inside the -1 score area and do it in 2 secs or less. The bulleye rapid fire cadence of a shot every 2 secs is way too slow for IDPA.

**imashooter2** · May 10th, 2007, 09:26 PM

I've shot lots of ICORE, USPSA and speed steel with revolvers. The only misfires I've ever had were a result of trying to lower the DA trigger pull too much. If you have a stock mainspring and the strain screw is fully tightened, you should be able to light off any primer made. If you have lightened the trigger pull any, whether by backing out the strain screw, using after market springs or bending the stock spring, light strikes are common. The use of Federal primers will help considerably (they are softer than other brands).