Min Powder start

[Nomes]

Min. Powder charge 4.7 Max is 4.9 Can you go below the Min or over the Max?
I would like to start at 4.4 and work up.
I don't have a bunch of equipment to check speed and all that. So what is a rule of thumb to tell if the charge is rite for a gun?
Loading for target and self defense 9mm luger
Is over the Max considered +P

[rey]

You should never do below the minimum as you could have a bullet lodged in the barrel. You should not go over the maximum. There is a reason they put minimum and maximum in all of the reloading manuals. Please follow the manual if you want to stay safe. The extra 100 or so feet per second is not worth risking your life over.

[dud]

what he said and to add the smaller the case capacity the more it effects it.at 1400 rounds per pound with that charge it aint worth foolin with.

[Nomes]

OK.
What is +P loads?

[hornady]

from your post I can see from your post, you are New to reloading .and it is always good to ask a lot of questions. But I would highly recommend getting either the Lee Modern reloading book or the Lyman 49th Addition reloading book and read them. And stay away from the Hot loads. I must admit when I was younger I did my share of experimenting. But most times all you will do if lucky is just waste powder and split cases

[shooter357]

You can start here.

http://forum.pafoa.org/ammunition-re...ead-first.html

Read as much information as you can. Buy some reloading books and manuals and absorb the information. Manufacturers publish minimum and maximum loads because of pressure and velocities. When the bullet travels too slow it might not make it out of the barrel and if there is too much pressure, your gun might not be able to handle it. Good luck and always think safety.

[rey]

+P is made by a manufacturer that has all of the equipment to check safety standards. You and I do not have access to this type of equipment. When I think back to all of the dumb things we did years ago, I'm surprised that we managed to stay alive this long. Do yourself a big favor and stick to what it says in the manual for minimum and maximum and you will be better off in the long run.

[tl_3237]

This basically describes the +p designation.

The +P designation came about for a very simple reason. As advancements were made in the quality and strength of both firearms and cartridge cases it was determined that some of the older rounds were capable of operating safely at higher chamber pressures in modern firearms than those originally established. Since firearms--and cases, for that matter--are durable goods that last for decades, even centuries, it was not feasible to simply increase the standard pressure specifications for these cartridges. There are too many old firearms around that could not handle the increase safely. So SAAMI (Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers' Institute) uses the +P designation to separate the new pressure limit for these old cartridges from the old lower standard.

Only to be used in firearms rated for +P ammo. Do not confuse with 'proofing' ammo which should NEVER be used in any firearm - 'proofing' ammo is used exclusively by manufacturers to stress test their products.

[Nomes]

I have modern reloading second edition and have been trying to get all the info I also have a Lee pro 1000.
But most of all I just don't want to hurt MEEEEE.
Thanks for the input.





The only dumb question is
the one that doesn't get asked

[Xringshooter]

Just to add about +P ammo. As stated, +P is recognized by SAAMI and limits are spec'd. However, +P+ ammo is NOT spec'd by SAAMI and that means that any ammo maker can say their ammo is +P+ and no one can dispute them. It has also been said that some +P+ ammo is actually weaker than regular ammo and the manufacturers just want people to believe it is better.