Pennsylvania Firearm Owners Association
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  1. #1
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    Default Modern Reloading

    First off - I think it's funny that the load data for .223 is actually on page 223.

    Second off, they say "go ahead and reload steel case"

    I've done my research here and on the net it's generally advised against, but in the book it says it's cool.

    Thoughts on why the book says it's ok if the internets (read opinionet) says it's not (except for a few brave souls).

    Just looking for clarity.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Modern Reloading

    Personally I throw all or any Steel , Aluminum, or Berdan primed cases away. It
    just seems reasonable the steel case would be hard on the Dies, and the Berdan primed just are not worth the trouble to modify for boxer primers

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Modern Reloading

    Quote Originally Posted by hornady View Post
    Personally I throw all or any Steel , Aluminum, or Berdan primed cases away. It
    just seems reasonable the steel case would be hard on the Dies, and the Berdan primed just are not worth the trouble to modify for boxer primers
    I understand the berdan issue, but if you're using a carbide die aren't the chances of the steel ruining the die pretty low? Especially if you use a good case lube?

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    Default Re: Modern Reloading

    that is for everyone to decied on there own, but I have not seen Carbide dies in Rifle, I buy Lyman Rifle Dies and load 223, 270, 3030, and 3006, these are all non Carbide steel dies, and you should not use lube with carbide Dies. now my pistol Dies are Lee Carbide, in 380 and 9MM But 357 and 45ACP I like the Lyman Carbide Dies,

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Modern Reloading

    Ok, weird though....I read on Hornady's site only a few days ago that you should still lube with carbide, I will have to find the page with that information on it. I've read in many places that you don't need lube with carbide.

    Thanks for the info!

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    Default Re: Modern Reloading

    Quote Originally Posted by hornady View Post
    Personally I throw all or any Steel , Aluminum, or Berdan primed cases away. It
    just seems reasonable the steel case would be hard on the Dies, and the Berdan primed just are not worth the trouble to modify for boxer primers
    You're throwing good money out then. Military crimped cases are not hard to remove the primer. I bought a Lee swager, put it in my cordless drill, and 3 seconds later it's in the auto prime. Once fired 223 brass is valuable, my friend. If it's not worth it to you, at least save them and sell for 15¢ a piece.

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    Default Re: Modern Reloading

    not bragging just old, but I have been reloading for 40 years and still learning. and as with everthing .things change when I started out they Did not make Carbide steel Dies and you had to lube everything. If you are loading Rifle and lubeing cases. stay away from the spray on stuff. I load a lot of Rifle Ammo and go to Lowes and get there Electric Wire lube. its about $5.00 a Qt and works as well as anything I have used. just put a little on the Lube pad . and roll the cases. Remember to much lube will bend a case when you size it.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Modern Reloading

    Quote Originally Posted by hornady View Post
    not bragging just old, but I have been reloading for 40 years and still learning. and as with everthing .things change when I started out they Did not make Carbide steel Dies and you had to lube everything. If you are loading Rifle and lubeing cases. stay away from the spray on stuff. I load a lot of Rifle Ammo and go to Lowes and get there Electric Wire lube. its about $5.00 a Qt and works as well as anything I have used. just put a little on the Lube pad . and roll the cases. Remember to much lube will bend a case when you size it.
    I've heard of people using synthetic motor oil on the first case and then with regular dies it leaves enough in there for about 10 cases..Seen some videos of this on youtube as well.

    I have the lee case lube that came with the kit right now.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Modern Reloading

    Quote Originally Posted by QuakertownRich View Post
    You're throwing good money out then. Military crimped cases are not hard to remove the primer. I bought a Lee swager, put it in my cordless drill, and 3 seconds later it's in the auto prime. Once fired 223 brass is valuable, my friend. If it's not worth it to you, at least save them and sell for 15¢ a piece.
    He's not saying he's throwing away mil crimped ammo, he's saying he tosses steel, aluminum and berdan primed cases.

    There's a way to convert the berdan to boxer, or you can just buy berdan primers....but they're scarce it seems.

    The lee modern realoding book says

    "brass is the most desirable material for cases. Aluminum cases are used only in cheap ammunition and are not reloadable. Steel cases were used during WWII when brass was scarce. Steel cases are reloadable"
    Last edited by Kaos; March 6th, 2009 at 01:55 PM.

  10. #10
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    Default Carbide Rifle Dies

    Quote Originally Posted by hornady View Post
    that is for everyone to decied on there own, but I have not seen Carbide dies in Rifle,
    Carbide rifle dies do exist.

    Dillon Three-Die Rifle Die Sets include a sizing/ depriming die, a bullet seating die and a taper crimp die. />Sizing/Depriming Die
    The sizing/depriming die is full-length, to minimum tolerances, sizing cases down to function in semi- and full-automatic firearms. We strongly suggest that a headspace case gage be used to correctly adjust the size die.
    For high volume users, such as commercial reloaders, law enforcement agencies, and high power or service rifle competitors, we also offer .223 and .308 die sets with a full-length carbide sizing die. Lubrication is still required, but the increased scratch resistance and die longevity of carbide are of great benefit to these groups of users.

    http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/con...hree_Die_Sets_

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