M95 mauser? Whats safe in it?(loads)

**toadyoforangeville** · March 3rd, 2009, 05:18 PM

Over the weekend I got a 1895 mauser in 7x57 cal. for $90 I couldnt let it go And I was wondering what loads would be safe in it.

**Bama Man** · March 3rd, 2009, 06:54 PM

Put a piece of masking tape, or electrical tape on the base of a 7 X 57 cartridge, and see if the bolt shuts.
If it shuts really easy then you have way too head space.
You really should remove the extractor first, and the firing pin, and keep a cleaning rod close by to push the cartridge out of the chamber.
Being a bolt rifle, you may still be able to get it to lock with the tape on it, but, if you do, it should be very snug.
The key is to try not to force it shut with the tape on it.
If it won't shut at all, but shuts on the cartridge with no tape, then it is ok in the headspace dept.
Look the weapon over really well for tightness, rattling, etc.
If the rifle rattles like junk, it probably is, and shouldn't be fired.
If everything feels tight, and it headspaces ok, then, I would think that any surplus 7 X 57 would work, as well as most factory loaded ammo, which is generally loaded at the low-end of manufacturer's specs for litigation purposes, as about all 7 X 57 ammo would be ASSUMED by the factory to be fired in a surplus rifle, since it's really a military cartridge.

**Bama Man** · March 3rd, 2009, 07:00 PM

PS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ALWAYS make sure that you NEVER try to put the bolt into the receiver without first removing the extractor collar. I know these things are pesky to deal with, but not as pesky as trying to get your bolt back out once the collar is stuck in the receiver.
You may want to try the base of the cartridge in the face of your bolt with the tape on it before removing the extractor, and, if it fits into the bolt face ok, don't worry about removing the extractor, just remove the firing pin assembly.

**Bama Man** · March 3rd, 2009, 09:43 PM

My first high-powered rifle was a mod 95 mauser. I bought it for $20 at K-Mart in Rockingham NC in 1969 while stationed at Bragg.
There were about 100 to chose from, so one of the guys I was stationed with sat with me for a couple of hours as we checked bores, numbers, finishes, wood, etc, and bought one each with matching numbers, great bores, finishes, etc.
I was the company armorer ( the guy that issued and maintained the companie's small arms) so we were able to completely disassemble, clean, and refinish the wood.
I ended up trading that rifle for shotgun reloading stuff years ago, and could kick myself now.
What a great shooter those rifles are.
You got yourself a steal for $90.00.
Safe shooting
Also, while I'm here again, when you try the tape thing for headspace check, put the cartridge into the bolt face BEFORE you feed the bolt back in the receiver and very carefully feed it into the chamber.
DON"T try to put the cartridge in the magazine well and let it feed up to the bolt.
The Mauser bolt actually scrapes the cartridge up from the mag, and the tape has has chance to get scraped off, or bunched up, which is most likely to happen.
Although it is a bit tougher to do the feeding into the receiver and chamber this way, you KNOW that the cartridge is correctly aligned with the bolt this way, and that your test results are correct.

**toadyoforangeville** · March 4th, 2009, 04:48 PM

I have a bit of 40's and 50's surplus stuff I was wondering about handloads. It's in good shape (other than being sporterized) All #'s match and it's headspaced correctly. And it dosen't rattle at all.

**Bama Man** · March 4th, 2009, 09:39 PM

If your going to be handloading, just find a couple of manuals , and go accordingly.
I prefer to use a powder with the lowest chamber pressure but with the best speed for the pressure.
All my shooting is 100 yards or less, so trajectory is not a big item to me.
The 7 X 57 is a very flat shooter anyway.
If your leary of the surplus ammo you have, then pull the bullets and dump the powder and start over with the brass.
Put in new primers too though, and, be careful, a lot of the old stuff is berdan primed.
I have a manual with loads for the 7 X 57, but it doesn't list chamber pressures in it.
When you get a set of Lee dies, their directions come with loading data, and they usually have chamber pressures (for max loadings).
Lee generally tends to be a tad weak with their start loads, but that is normal in this litigation centered society.
Still, you may want to back off your first load by 10% of the listed start load.
Have you fired this rifle at all yet?

**toadyoforangeville** · March 5th, 2009, 04:52 PM

It's all berdan primed. I haven't fired it yet ( havent had the time ) it came home and sat behind the bedroom door. (cabnit is full) I have the nosler %th speer 13 and hornady 4&5 mannuals. they say not safe in older firearms. Iwondered if they meant in poor condition or all of them.