Problem - AR-15 FSB Taper Pin Removal

[-JD-]

I've got 2 Olympic Stainless barrels that I need to remove the FSBs from. They were black-oxided at Olympic after assembly. They do have taper pins and I am punching from the small side (left) toward the large side (right). I've be hitting them hard with a 24oz-ish dead blow(shot), steel-faced hammer on steel punches, against a fir block and can't get them to budge.

Just how hard does one have to whack these things to get them loose? Any tips?

If I can't do it I'll have Dave Donley do it since I'm taking them in for cutting and threading any way, but I thought i'd save a few $$ and do it myself, since I've at least one other (non-oxided) to do after those.

Thanks

[Lycanthrope]

They're a pain. I keep an extra set on hand because I've boogered every pair I've driven out.



LycanBIGhammerthrope

[-JD-]

Thanks Lycan. I'll just keep pounding on it I guess.

I've got a 5lb hand sledge, but I'm thinking that the result would be quite ugly. Wishing I had a small arbor press right now.

[Lycanthrope]

I've broken some punches on those.

Have you tried some propane heat?


Lycanithelpsthrope

[-JD-]

Just an update. I finally got them out. The pins look fine. The FSB is a bit dinged up, and the punches took quite a beating. Persistence and heavy hitting seem to be the keys.

Side question: I also removed one with straight rather than taper pins. Would replacing them with tapers be good, bad, or simply neutral?

Thanks for your help.

[SteveWag]

Try making these mods before reinstalling the front sight base. It is not necessary to mill the flats.:

http://www.gswagner.com/arsight/arsightmods2.html

Gets rid of the pins altogether.

Steve

[-JD-]

Try making these mods before reinstalling the front sight base. It is not necessary to mill the flats.:

http://www.gswagner.com/arsight/arsightmods2.html

Gets rid of the pins altogether.

Steve

Thanks Steve.

Actually, I had come across your tutorial earlier and was thinking about doing that.

I assume that milling the flats would make it MUCH more secure.

I have a CNC mill at work, but minimal experience with machining stainless (Plastics, wood, and mild steel). Any tips on rpms and cutter size & type (I think I'm currently out of the 4-flute carbide 1/8", but have plenty of 2-flute carbides.)

Does your kit use conical pint or flat-bottom set screws?

[wirepuller]

this guy said to use this method to fix a canted front sight, I would not recommend that only because if the sight is canted too far you will restrict the gas port and get short stroking. this adustment should be made where the upper receiver and the barrel meet

[SteveWag]

-JD-, I use cup end set-screws. You could use pointed with a barrel that has holes.

wirepuller, you are correct, but the vertical hole in the gas block is some bigger than the barrel hole and some adjustment is possible.

BTW, this is not my idea, Frank White, Compass Lake Engineering, has supplied barrels with flats for years. The only other way is to find out what glue Bushmaster uses, they just “glue” the front sight base on competition Service Rifles. In order of accuracy, glue is best, them set-screws and last is driving a tapered pin thru a transverse hole.

Steve