Annealing brass

[arjohnson]

The one tool i have found to tighten groups is the Lyman M die.I use it for both jacketed, and cast bullets i shoot in my old military rifles,I tried the Lee expansion die. However it only flares the case mouth , and dose nothing for neck tension. I feel the M die sets the bullet straighter with a more uniform neck tension.

I*m going to be shooting both annealed and non annealed identical loads next range trip, I*ll report back after.

[hornady]

I do not know if annealing has much to do with grouping. i do know it has added longer life to my brass.

[arjohnson]

I do not know if annealing has much to do with grouping. i do know it has added longer life to my brass.

Supposed to give more equal neck tension and that should make a difference.

[hornady]

could be i never checked. I do know the Lyman m die works well. you do need one for every caliber. I needed 6 I can double up a few 7MM 30 cal , 22 caliber. They are not cheap but I like them. other than adding another step.

[Lycanthrope]

I've seen annealing have positive effects on neck tension consistency (at least with data from an AMP press). How much improvement you see in groups is dependent on a lot of other factors, including whether you have a gun that is capable of showing you a small percentage increase.

I will say, from personal experience, I used to worry about my annealing temps and used Tempilaq religiously, but as long as the necks get over 750 degrees it doesn't seem to matter. You can over anneal a case body, but I haven't seen any downsides if you get a neck too hot despite the internet "wisdom".

Lycanhotforteacherthrope

[arjohnson]

I've seen annealing have positive effects on neck tension consistency (at least with data from an AMP press). How much improvement you see in groups is dependent on a lot of other factors, including whether you have a gun that is capable of showing you a small percentage increase.

I will say, from personal experience, I used to worry about my annealing temps and used Tempilaq religiously, but as long as the necks get over 750 degrees it doesn't seem to matter. You can over anneal a case body, but I haven't seen any downsides if you get a neck too hot despite the internet "wisdom".

Lycanhotforteacherthrope

I*m not getting to crazy with it, I get the brass neck to start to turn orange and that*s it.

[arjohnson]

I've seen annealing have positive effects on neck tension consistency (at least with data from an AMP press). How much improvement you see in groups is dependent on a lot of other factors, including whether you have a gun that is capable of showing you a small percentage increase.

I will say, from personal experience, I used to worry about my annealing temps and used Tempilaq religiously, but as long as the necks get over 750 degrees it doesn't seem to matter. You can over anneal a case body, but I haven't seen any downsides if you get a neck too hot despite the internet "wisdom".

Lycanhotforteacherthrope

I’m not getting to crazy with it, I get the brass neck to start to turn orange and that’s it.

[ar15jules]

I've seen annealing have positive effects on neck tension consistency (at least with data from an AMP press). How much improvement you see in groups is dependent on a lot of other factors, including whether you have a gun that is capable of showing you a small percentage increase.

I will say, from personal experience, I used to worry about my annealing temps and used Tempilaq religiously, but as long as the necks get over 750 degrees it doesn't seem to matter. You can over anneal a case body, but I haven't seen any downsides if you get a neck too hot despite the internet "wisdom".

Lycanhotforteacherthrope

Holy shit....I thought you were off the grid...

[GeneCC]

Just picked up a annealeez gen4, got it setup and annealed my first batch of 6.5, pretty impressed with the ease of use and once I figured out the heat and speed settings on some scrap brass I did a small batch. Turned out pretty good.

Any here anneal their brass and if so what are some tips?

I use the "ouch!" method. I hold the round in my fingers, rotating it over the flame. When I go "ouch" I drop the brass.

The human body registers pain at 120 Fahrenheit.

I would prefer an induction coil with an IR or light sensor. Priorities.


Most of the time annealing is not really that necessary. What is necessary is consistency in the procedure. The "ouch" method is not that good but it's adequate.

[knight0334]

I*m not getting to crazy with it, I get the brass neck to start to turn orange and that*s it.

That is basically what I do with a torch. A very faint glow, and I do it in a dim room. With the water down below the desired annealed area, it helps blend the soft with work-hardened area so that there isn't a sharp hard/soft line.