S&W 617 revolver woes

[Brick]

Shoots great! Speedbeez speedloaders are slick! But after firing, the damn thing won't extract and eject the spent cases! One chap in the S&W forum tells me this has been a problem for years and due to undersized chambers and need to recut or have them recut!

Any thoughts or suggestions? Anyone with the same model revolver have the same problems or have a favorite ammo that works well?
How about suggestions for a gunsmith in Susco, Bradford, Wyoming, Sullivan counties to do the work.

[Delkal]

More likely a rough chamber as long as the cartridge drops right in the chamber. After firing a case will expand to fill the chamber so I don't see why it would matter if the case expands a little or or lot. A light polishing should take care of the issue.

This assumes you are using regular powered factory loads and not +p or hot hand loads. One of the main pressure signs of overpressure ammo in a revolver is difficult extraction. This happens when the cylinder expands a little with the brass then tightens back down over the case crimping it in. If this happens your ammo is way too hot.

[cdi]

Polish charge holes, maybe lightly break the leading edge of the charge holes.
Do not recut the charge holes.

[Brick]

More likely a rough chamber as long as the cartridge drops right in the chamber. After firing a case will expand to fill the chamber so I don't see why it would matter if the case expands a little or or lot. A light polishing should take care of the issue.

This assumes you are using regular powered factory loads and not +p or hot hand loads. One of the main pressure signs of overpressure ammo in a revolver is difficult extraction. This happens when the cylinder expands a little with the brass then tightens back down over the case crimping it in. If this happens your ammo is way too hot.

Using standard and high velocity factory .22 LR.

[Delkal]

Do the rounds individually drop in fully under their own weight without any thumb pressure?

First give each chamber an extremely good scrub with a brush, solvent and patches. Then one more round with the brush for luck and dry them good. Then, after shooting, see if you can remove the cases one at a time with your fingernail (hopefully) or maybe a light push with a small rod. If extraction is hard in one or more cylinders look in those cylinders and see if they are smooth inside or do have circular machine marks in them. I have successfully polished sticky chambers with a hand drill, some tight patches wrapped around a rod, and some Flitz. Usually a light buffing is all you need but if that doesn't work stop and send it back (but that is always a PITA).

[Noah_Zark]

Brick:

I've worked on three or four 617s with that ejection problem. I polished the chambers in the cylinder using a plastic .22 cal (like .223 / 5.56) slotted tip for cleaning patches, but used 400 grit cloth abrasive belt material cut into a strip, then followed by a crocus cloth strip, with the plastic cleaning rod tip chucked in my drill press for two-handed control of the cylinder assembly. The drill press was set for medium speed. I marked one chamber with a sharpie so I could keep track of which chamber I started on. Wiped the sharpie off with acetone. Worked like a charm, especially on the 10-shot version of the 617.

Can't help with a 'smith in those parts.

Noah

[imashooter2]

Been a problem for years. The chambers need a finishing reamer through them. It*s easy to jug the cylinder holes spinning sand paper in them. Be careful.

[Brick]

Thanks to all! I think I'll try cleaning again the run through the cylinders with JB Bore cleaner on patch wrapped around a brush. If that doesn't do it I'll try the cylinder finish reamer route.

[knight0334]

Flitz polishing compound(available at most automotive parts houses) on a 38cal or 40cal bore mop.

Put the bore mop in a drill and spin slowly. Move it in & out like you're honing a engine cylinder. Repeat for each chamber.

Polishing the chamber(s) has fixed all of my sticky brass situations in the past. So much, that I do it pre-emptively after buying a gun. ...I also polish the bore of the barrels(pulling a flitz covered mop back and forth - no spinny, just let the rifling turn the mop). H&R's Handi-Rifles really benefitted from the chamber and bore polishing. ..they had a tendency to use reamers and rifling cutters a little longer than they should have.

[Delkal]

AFAIK a "finishing reamer" is used when a chamber is short cut for final headspacing. But once the chamber is finished there isn't anything else to cut. Is your ammo seating correctly?

For smoothing a rough chamber polish it with an extremely fine abrasive like Flitz. JB bore paste is good stuff but it would take you forever.

No sandpaper. And I wouldn't use any paste under 800-1000 grit.