Stripping wood stock for reshape/refinishing…advice?

[Delkal]

I never heard of a spray on stain but whatever you use briefly wipe mineral spirits all over the stock before you put on the stain or the stain will soak in too fast and be too dark. I usually wipe the stain on with a small piece of T-shirt (and wear gloves). Let the stain sit for a few minutes and wipe it all off. Don't let it dry like paint. If it is not dark enough use another coat of stain on the lighter parts to get the color even.

I would put a linseed oil finish after its done. It takes longer but its only a few minutes each day. I can't stand a shiny poly finish on a classic rifle (but that's just me)

[KCJones]

Looks like this project is taking off this week. Got word from Sarco that they found my choke, gunsmith is waiting on it to install so i can get the barreled action over to another poofer for cerakote. Cerakote is finished on the bolt and small parts. So i guess i need to start working on the stock. New truglo fiber optic fat bead is on order

Gunsmith says citristrip gel, so thats the plan. Settled on Old Masters Spanish Oak oil based wiping stain. Not sure if i*ll wax, poly, or shellac to seal once stained. Will be doing a spray on stain. Found a cool little tool at the hardware store that is basically a co2 charged can with a glass jar and pickup tube on the bottom

https://myoldmasters.com/color/spanish-oak

I've used various citrus-based strippers, and been pleased with them.

I think you're wise to avoid linseed, or be very careful if you do. My friend's wife burned down their house refinishing a table and tossing the used rags into a bucket.

I really dislike poly finish myself. I think it looks like exactly what it is: plastic. IF you do go with poly, since you're using an oil-based stain, make sure you don't get a 'water based' poly, which is becoming more and more common. Also, if you use poly, the warmer the better when applying. Applying it too cool (I would say <90 degrees) tends to result in inadquate flow to get a nice smooth finish.

I prefer shellac or lacquer.

Lacquer is my favorite. It takes a LOT of coats to do right, but once done is very tough and gives a 'depth' I don't find with any other finish. My understanding of lacquer is it partially-dissolves the prior coat as you apply each coat - I think that's why the 'depth' of the look. I have never achieved anything like the 'look' of a sprayed-on lacquer finish with any other finish.

Shellac is less-tough, but since it's a natural product and the solvent is just alcohol, it's more 'friendly' in terms of environment & not breathing in nasties. Just try not to spill your martini on your stock :-).

Use a respirator while applying ANY finish, IMO, but certainly so with Lacquer.

[HanzMcFeely]

I never heard of a spray on stain but whatever you use briefly wipe mineral spirits all over the stock before you put on the stain or the stain will soak in too fast and be too dark. I usually wipe the stain on with a small piece of T-shirt (and wear gloves). Let the stain sit for a few minutes and wipe it all off. Don't let it dry like paint. If it is not dark enough use another coat of stain on the lighter parts to get the color even.

I would put a linseed oil finish after its done. It takes longer but its only a few minutes each day. I can't stand a shiny poly finish on a classic rifle (but that's just me)

Its technically a “wiping stain”. The spray gun thing i bought may or may not work. Figured it doesnt hurt to try, and it should speed up yhe process, and give more uniform results. Spray on, wipe off, repeat.

Gunsmith suggested laquer finish. Never dine laquer before, only poly and gel wax. Maybe i can spray that on instead.

Last option would be hand rubbed wax finish, if i can find the proper color. Minwax only carries it as “special dark” color from what i see in store

[Delkal]

Last option would be hand rubbed wax finish, if i can find the proper color. Minwax only carries it as *special dark* color from what i see in store

I always stain separately so I have more control getting the color even. Things marketed as a combined stain and finish are marketed for amateurs at big box stores. Not sure what their wax finish is but you need to be careful with minwax. They sell a "tung oil" finish but it has little if any tung oil in it. It is more of a rubbing varnish and mostly paint thinner. Traditional linseed / tung oil finishes use the pure oils. Sometimes you cut them with turpentine but the oils soak in and slowly harden. A lot of times after the finish is totally dry a light coat of oil and wax is put on for a final finish. Is this what you mean by a wax finish? I never heard of just putting on wax.

With any oil based stain / finish you need to be careful with the used rags since if they are in a pile they can generate heat and spontaneously combust. I always burn mine right after use. AFAIK the rags need to be enclosed so they generate heat to combust and a small rag laid in a single layer on a concrete floor will not light (YMMV).

[HanzMcFeely]

Thanks Delkal i’ll keep that in mind.

Going to spot test when i get home, on bare wood under the butt pad. Its getting replaced anyhow due to some jackwagon gluing a rubber recoil pad on (going back to stock plastic plate and i’m going to make a lace up leather stock cover/cheek riser/recoil pad combo)

I have half a wild hair to have the gunsmith put a short pic rail on the front of the receiver for a red dot lol

[HanzMcFeely]

Eyeballed a bunch of stuff at wallyworld tonight. Oil based Laquer comes in spray cans

Grabbed a small bottle of citristrip, some gloves, scraper, sponge brushes, and sandpaper all the way up from 120-600gr.

Debating on if i want to do filler before sanding…go for that glass like finish

[HanzMcFeely]

Side by side sneak preview after first run with citristrip. About 2-3 hours wait time. Theres some nice wood under the old finish

[HanzMcFeely]

[Rural Ruger]

Looks good. Another option when you get down to final finishing is steel wool. Had a lot of luck with that on my old Mosin, but does take time...hit with wool, apply finish, hit with wool, apply finish, etc.

[HanzMcFeely]

Looks good. Another option when you get down to final finishing is steel wool. Had a lot of luck with that on my old Mosin, but does take time...hit with wool, apply finish, hit with wool, apply finish, etc.

Im going down to 600 grit sandpaper on final finish, once i reshape it. Think Rem 700 style monte carlo stock, with the cheek wings in the butt stock