Need Input for Building a .338 WINMAG Round

[Walleye Hunter]

The SC (short cut) versions run pretty much the same, but you should drop down a bit to verify the loads if your non-SC are near the top of the pressure charts..

The 4350 series (IMR, Hodgdon, Accurate, etc..) are all pretty generic in large magnum calibers, but then you're back to load development.

I run Reloader33 and Accurate Magnum in my 338Lapua, but it's a different animal all together ..

OK, I have a lb of the SC in stock so I'll switch over and order a jug. Thanks.

[Walleye Hunter]

I've gotten myself enough of other peoples' reloads that it's time to process them. I will not shoot them, as I would not provide mine for other people to shoot. The question that I have is...after disassembly and if they fit into my chamber, should I used the primers that are in them or should I knock them out and use my own? And on that note, what do yous do about getting those primers out?

[JDA58]

I push out live primers Slow and easy.. and reuse them.. safety glasses and just go slow

[Walleye Hunter]

I push out live primers Slow and easy.. and reuse them.. safety glasses and just go slow

If all else jives, would you just leave them in?

[JDA58]

( I would think) ..You would still need to resize the brass... the neck at least , for neck tension remove the decapping pin from your resizing die and run a piece of brass through it and see how that works for you ?

Im sure someone with more experience will come a long !

[Walleye Hunter]

( I would think) ..You would still need to resize the brass... the neck at least , for neck tension remove the decapping pin from your resizing die and run a piece of brass through it and see how that works for you ?

Im sure someone with more experience will come a long !

Yeah, neck can be done with primer in. If the brass won't fit in the chamber then I'll need to full length it. But I should be able to do that without removing the primer too. Thanks

[85MikeTPI]

Yeah, neck can be done with primer in. If the brass won't fit in the chamber then I'll need to full length it. But I should be able to do that without removing the primer too. Thanks

You can full size primed brass also, just remove the decapping pin from the ferrul. (unless your pin is integrated like Lee). I would hand lube with a paste (redding, hornady) and manually wipe off afterwards.

[85MikeTPI]

Just FYI, I know you shoot the 200 and 225gr, I saw these on American, about 70cpr after coupon code.

https://americanreloading.com/338-ca...ond-100ct.html

[Walleye Hunter]

Just FYI, I know you shoot the 200 and 225gr, I saw these on American, about 70cpr after coupon code.

https://americanreloading.com/338-ca...ond-100ct.html

Thanks. I'm trying to build myself an accurate round with components that will be around for a while so I don't have to keep reworking it. The Hornady bullits that I have are running low and I'm not finding them anywhere. I did find two others that hopefully won't dry up on me to work with. IMR 4831 is hard to find but H4831SC is floating around right now. I have been working with the IMR and have secured enough to last me a little while and I scrounged up enough of the HSC to pick up from there to probably last as long as I do. If I find one of the two bullits that I got works well, I'll try go get a good supply of them. If I can't, then it's back to the drawing board.

[Walleye Hunter]

Next question:

I was unable to find the Hornady bullets I was using and got some Speer and Barnes to test for accuracy. Hopefully, they will both still be available after testing and I can get a heap of them. Both are 225 grain but their dimensions (lengths) are not the same. I am not finding data specific to these bullets and am seeking the best way to work with them. In lieu of any information, I'll start with the minimum published load that I have and see what I get. Any ideas/input?