rear adjustable sight pin removal - taurus 692 revolver - help

**bugout** · December 20th, 2021, 03:24 PM

I am in the process of designing and 3d printing a fixed rear sight with a very small footprint for my taurus 692 revolver to make it more carry friendly...
saw some companies doing this for smiths before and figured, 'let's go'

I can not for the life of me get this pin out... it is smaller than 1/16" (my smallest punch) and I have tried using a nail etc to get it started but nothing.
I am pushing left to right (looking from the rear) and have even tried the other way too - no budging, just me marking up/ scratching my frame (it's ok it's a carry).

Any ideas or anyone skilled enough to knock it out? Most smiths are backed up and this is 1 pin!

I plan on using the screw on the top that was formerly used for sight adjustment to hold down my 3d printed one...

Help appreciated. Im in philly.

**Bang** · December 21st, 2021, 01:53 AM

Don't know if this is the case, of course, but I got fooled by a pin on a friend's AR that just would not move. Turned out to be a screw with a Phillips head. Take a good look with a magnifying glass.

**SevenMilePete** · December 21st, 2021, 02:19 AM

Originally Posted by Bang

Don't know if this is the case, of course, but I got fooled by a pin on a friend's AR that just would not move. Turned out to be a screw with a Phillips head. Take a good look with a magnifying glass.

Uh, yep. I had this happen once also.

**bugout** · January 1st, 2022, 03:11 PM

does seem to be a screw but that was a good idea... i might have to just bring it to a smith at this point

**Bang** · January 4th, 2022, 08:57 PM

Looking at photos of 692 Tracker and other models of 692 series, I see a pin in the top strap which appears to fasten the adjustable sight. If a screw, the "head" should be readily discernible. The photos suggest a pin, pretty level with the frame. If you have a small machinist's vice, find something thinner and try pressing the pin out.

There is discussion on those retaining pins on a Taurus site:

https://hunting-washington.com/smf/i...topic=209589.0

No help in this case, but the poster stated he tried both directions and noted the pin is less than 1/16 diameter, the end looks rounded, which makes the punch want to slip. They make punches with concave end (called cup end or hollow starters) for such designs. The poster gave up and sent it to Taurus (his sight had broken).

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=gunsmith+...sl_kdymly5ma_b

**bugout** · January 5th, 2022, 08:23 PM

Originally Posted by Bang

Looking at photos of 692 Tracker and other models of 692 series, I see a pin in the top strap which appears to fasten the adjustable sight. If a screw, the "head" should be readily discernible. The photos suggest a pin, pretty level with the frame. If you have a small machinist's vice, find something thinner and try pressing the pin out.

There is discussion on those retaining pins on a Taurus site:

https://hunting-washington.com/smf/i...topic=209589.0

No help in this case, but the poster stated he tried both directions and noted the pin is less than 1/16 diameter, the end looks rounded, which makes the punch want to slip. They make punches with concave end (called cup end or hollow starters) for such designs. The poster gave up and sent it to Taurus (his sight had broken).

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=gunsmith+...sl_kdymly5ma_b

you are a scholar among men...

this indeed is the issue, thing will not budge - bent 2 punches on it, also tried small nails and also bent them.
slides like hell for the named reasons in your post.
i do have a set of roll pin punches - which have the hollow or cup end - but again the pin is smaller than 1/16 and the smallest punch i have found is 1/16...

they must use some specialty punch, carbide or something.., saw some small punches used by watchmakers - might pull the trigger there or just go to a smith.

i really want to do this 3d printed fixed rear sight. no idea why, just do...

**bugout** · January 5th, 2022, 08:34 PM

Originally Posted by bugout

you are a scholar among men...

this indeed is the issue, thing will not budge - bent 2 punches on it, also tried small nails and also bent them.
slides like hell for the named reasons in your post.
i do have a set of roll pin punches - which have the hollow or cup end - but again the pin is smaller than 1/16 and the smallest punch i have found is 1/16...

they must use some specialty punch, carbide or something.., saw some small punches used by watchmakers - might pull the trigger there or just go to a smith.

i really want to do this 3d printed fixed rear sight. no idea why, just do...

i stand corrected...
i found a .040 cup tipped punch on Brownells and just ordered it.
Now the wait...

**Bang** · January 5th, 2022, 09:16 PM

As far as I know, S&W does not use tapered pins, so direction of drive should not matter unless staked. On close examination of both ends of the pin, you might find one end is crowned and the other flat, or crowned at both ends. Match cup to crown, or flat to flat.

If one end is flat, I'd suggest cutting off a 1/16th punch to a length of 1/8th-3/16ths so it doesn't bend easily and grind the diameter down to that needed, and use it to get the pin started. Roughening the face of the flat punch would aid in keeping the flat from slipping. Once moved an 1/16th inch or so, the hole will keep the longer punch from slipping off.

It is important not to "waste" the hammer blow. The gun must be supported and immobilized when striking the punch. If the gun is able to move from the blow, the gun is absorbing energy meant to move the pin. It's counter-intuitive, but a pin that fails to move needs a heavier hammer and a heavier blow. A squarely addressed blow to a perpendicular punch should not bend the punch if the pin moves.

A few beers first?

**bugout** · January 6th, 2022, 12:09 AM

Originally Posted by Bang

As far as I know, S&W does not use tapered pins, so direction of drive should not matter unless staked. On close examination of both ends of the pin, you might find one end is crowned and the other flat, or crowned at both ends. Match cup to crown, or flat to flat.

If one end is flat, I'd suggest cutting off a 1/16th punch to a length of 1/8th-3/16ths so it doesn't bend easily and grind the diameter down to that needed, and use it to get the pin started. Roughening the face of the flat punch would aid in keeping the flat from slipping. Once moved an 1/16th inch or so, the hole will keep the longer punch from slipping off.

It is important not to "waste" the hammer blow. The gun must be supported and immobilized when striking the punch. If the gun is able to move from the blow, the gun is absorbing energy meant to move the pin. It's counter-intuitive, but a pin that fails to move needs a heavier hammer and a heavier blow. A squarely addressed blow to a perpendicular punch should not bend the punch if the pin moves.

A few beers first?

thanks, all good ideas!