Loadable Brands

[wanneroo]

A-MERC is junk throw it out.

Blazer brass loads great. Nary a problem with it.

[gghbi]

Typically, when one is just starting, it is advisable to work up loads in small batches of +/-10, in powder charge increments of .1/.2 grains, until you find a load that is most accurate and/or reliable in you pistol. Having a small container helps for this. You can put several different loads in one container, leaving a row of spaces between them, as long as you identify them properly. Once you find a suitable load, if you intend to load in bulk, you can toss them into a larger container. I put 180 rounds of 9mm into Berry's bullets 250-count boxes.

Here is an example of this from 27hand from the Re: What did you reload today? thread:

50895357447_239c19d8a6_k.jpg

[ROCK-IT3]

Here is an example of this from 27hand from the Re: What did you reload today? thread:

50895357447_239c19d8a6_k.jpg

Exactly. For rifle cartridges, I do use boxes like that even after developing loads, and just fill them with all the same loading. For pistols, I toss them loose into Berry's Bullet containers, as many as will fit.

[scruff]

I store revolver rounds in MTD plastic boxes. Bulk semi-auto pistol rounds go 100 in a Baggie and into ammo cans. Not sure what I'm going to do with rifle rounds.

[Gunowner99]

All brass cases are reloadable. Some are better than others. The differences are more important in rifle cases, where variations in case volume between brands can significantly affect pressure, accuracy, etc. Check Accurate Shooter website for some great articles on reloading by caliber, including recommended brass.

Pistol brass is not so finicky. Some stuff is total crap. Watch out for cases with a step or serration where the bullet was seated. They will separate quickly when reloaded. I*ve forgotten the website, maybe The High Road, but there was an analysis of the number of times different brands of 9mm brass could be reloaded before splitting. Most were good for at least ten, some in the twenties. I*ve reloaded Blazer brass numerous times. It*s just fine.

I toss old boxes and use plastic boxes for batches of precision loads, and Talenti Gelato containers for bulk.

I*m not familiar with your press, though, or how it should sound.

Could not find wither article, can you help? Does one type of brass have the ability to reload more than others as far as is there better quality between manufacturers?

[Gunowner99]

I have reloaded all the brands you mention except the Perfecta. There are a few brands I avoid, notably A-MERC. I have heard that many people have trouble with that brand, but I don't know the details. I also passed on Red Army brass, but don't really know anything about it. Starline id really good brass if you get into calibers not readily available, or too expensive to buy new ammo just to save the brass. I have Starline in 10mm, .44-40, 7.62x25, and 9x18.

Probably what you are referring to with the Blazer is aluminum cases, which aren't reloadable. The cheaper Blazer ammo is loaded in aluminum cases, which are a dull silver color, not shiny like nickel-plated brass. I have reloaded Blazer brass with no issues.

I'm not sure why you applied brake cleaner. I would be more liberal with oil, and work the ram many times to get the oil worked all the way around it. Is there a grease fitting on the press? I use grease on my Hornady progressive and RCBS single stage, and it takes a while for it to spread all around the ram. I even smear some on the shaft, it just has to be wiped away with a paper towel at the top and bottom where it accumulates. I know the sound and vibration you speak of, I hear and feel it sometimes. The machining tolerances are very tight, and sometimes oil and grease can create a vibration before it spreads out thinly and completely, because it is being forced into places to narrow for it to fit, if that makes sense. It should work itself out when the lube works itself in.

Thanks for the response. I used brake cleaner to clean off any factory protectant. I do not have a grease fitting and have oiled up the ram and linkage pretty good. Put it on and wiped with my finger as well. It sounds like the wind through an unsealed window according to my wife. I know, strange way to describe. I think it sounds like when a robotic pick and place works with the sound or the quick movement of it, from personal experience that is. It's like when a jet makes those sounds before the let you off, not sure what they are doing sounds like moving maybe flaps? Kind of a grindy high pitch.

[Delkal]

Could not find wither article, can you help? Does one type of brass have the ability to reload more than others as far as is there better quality between manufacturers?

I don't think it matters for 9mm. As long as the case is brass and doesn't have a setback step just load them and shoot them. I started out using once fired federal cases with the same headstamp but with an autoloader it didn't take long till they got mixed with other cases or lost. It was becoming a pain to sort them each time so now its any old floorswept brass i can find plus anything I can find in the trashcan. I have no idea how many times the cases were loaded but I never split a 9mm case. Just shoot them till you lose them or the mouth gets chewed from being ejected. Same for .45 acp. .38 specials will occasionally split but when they do just toss them and reload the rest.

BUT, I only do this with target to mid power loads where you are not trying to push a max load. For max or +p loads I always use the same headstamp and develop a max load for only that headstamp. i also try and pick out the newest looking cases.

With rifle its a different story. I try and keep a record of the number of times fired and always use the same headstamp. Different cases can have different capacities. If I start having problems I will toss all of the brass and start with another lot of fresh cases.

[Boo Vuccla]

I can't add a thing to what others stated about the brass. All good input.
I save boxes and inserts of ammo and use a knife to break the box down at the side overlap. (Get the knife between the glued flaps). Then turn the box inside out and use Avery Dennison's glue sticks or something similar with Scotch Tape to make generic brown boxes. Fill them and mark them with your load info on the outside. I always root through the garbage cans at my range!

[frankski]

Could not find wither article, can you help? Does one type of brass have the ability to reload more than others as far as is there better quality between manufacturers?

Here’s the Cartridge Guide section at Accurate Shooter. https://www.accurateshooter.com/cate...tridge-guides/

Ive found the .308 and .223 info to be very useful.

Also, here’s a link to High Roads Reloading section. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...-reloading.15/

You can search within it for 9mm or other. I tried unsuccessfully to find the specific reference I wanted but there are pages and pages of discussion on the topic.

[JenniferG]

As far as brass goes I keep track of the brass I use. One type of brass I learned to never reload is Federal pistol brass that has a cannelure in the case. Throw that brass into your no good brass pile. It will rip along the cannelure at some point after one to three reloads, take my word on that. When you could buy Federal brass it doesn't have the cannelure it was only used on factory loaded brass.

I use the MTM cases I bought from Midway through their mail catalog for all the calibres that I reload and store them in those boxes. I also mark the box with the labels they provide to tell what load is currently in the box. For factory boxes if they have the polystyrene or hard plastic inserts they make OK case holders for the bench to keep track of your batches. The carboard outer gets tossed.

With your press squeaking I used a little vaseline that I keep on my workbench on the ram and then ran the ram up and down a few times and then cleaned up the excess. I found that the side struts also make some noise so I sprayed some silicone spray on those friction points and worked the press so it's quiet now. I try to use lubricants that don't accumulate dirt as much as possible. The silicone spray is very clean and the vaseline is easy to clean up afterwards. I use it on all kinds of things that have o-rings or fine adjustments.