JSD Supply in PA Polymer80

[schmol]

How does it shoot? Reliable?

dont know yet, just finished it and just bought the mags today, hoping to get it out this weekend

[HKusp 45]

I just finished the machining on the 1st gen full size frame. I had read that the rail cuts were not deep enough, even when you kiss the end mill right up to the jig.... and those reports are 100% correct. Even touching off on the top of the jig, I'm left with a rail "neck width" which is at least .030" too narrow for the slide rail throat. I could put it back in the jig, mill off .015" from each side of the jig, and then re-cut using the supplied tool, but instead I think I'll just go at it with a needle file (which I don't currently own). I'll head off to Ace tomorrow to see if they have anything that works.

they are a little tight but shooting or filing usually resolves the issue depending on how much you have I used a small needle flat file to finish fit my most recent gen 1 build

115745083_635229157127797_1696653749306175666_n.jpg
117139780_328451444962906_6467698383247781158_n.jpg

[Royinmontco]

Ok, so the slide moves freely, and everything is assembled. 2 problems:

1) Polymer80 directions recommend using the barrel block pin for the grip pin (I saw some youtube videos that suggest that polymer80 ships a roll pin for use here, but I didn't receive one). So I used the barrel lock pin. Now I have no barrel lock pin! (I ordered one on amazon... a full pin kit for a G17 was 14 bucks).

2) The ejector knocks into the firing pin sear thingie when I try and put the populated slide onto the frame. I can clearly see this happening through the mag well while I try to assemble the slide.

3) (I lied, there are 3 issues) After pushing the ejector aside with a screwdriver and pushing the slide on, it becomes bound before fully going on. It appears that the firing pin safety plunger is hitting the little sheet metal thing from the trigger pack (Which I think it's supposed to do, but I've also seen youtube videos that suggest this is an issue on 1st gen P80s and that I will likely have to grind down that sheet metal thing a little).

[85MikeTPI]

Ok, so the slide moves freely, and everything is assembled. 2 problems:

1) Polymer80 directions recommend using the barrel block pin for the grip pin (I saw some youtube videos that suggest that polymer80 ships a roll pin for use here, but I didn't receive one). So I used the barrel lock pin. Now I have no barrel lock pin! (I ordered one on amazon... a full pin kit for a G17 was 14 bucks).

2) The ejector knocks into the firing pin sear thingie when I try and put the populated slide onto the frame. I can clearly see this happening through the mag well while I try to assemble the slide.

3) (I lied, there are 3 issues) After pushing the ejector aside with a screwdriver and pushing the slide on, it becomes bound before fully going on. It appears that the firing pin safety plunger is hitting the little sheet metal thing from the trigger pack (Which I think it's supposed to do, but I've also seen youtube videos that suggest this is an issue on 1st gen P80s and that I will likely have to grind down that sheet metal thing a little).

This is useless without pics..

Did you happen to get the LPK/ejector from a 40sw instead of the 9mm ?

My first reaction would be to stop, see what went wrong with the build or assembly, and look for ways to correct it without modifying stock parts
and relying on YouTube videos....

My $0.02

[HKusp 45]

Ok, so the slide moves freely, and everything is assembled. 2 problems:

1) Polymer80 directions recommend using the barrel block pin for the grip pin (I saw some youtube videos that suggest that polymer80 ships a roll pin for use here, but I didn't receive one). So I used the barrel lock pin. Now I have no barrel lock pin! (I ordered one on amazon... a full pin kit for a G17 was 14 bucks).

2) The ejector knocks into the firing pin sear thingie when I try and put the populated slide onto the frame. I can clearly see this happening through the mag well while I try to assemble the slide.

3) (I lied, there are 3 issues) After pushing the ejector aside with a screwdriver and pushing the slide on, it becomes bound before fully going on. It appears that the firing pin safety plunger is hitting the little sheet metal thing from the trigger pack (Which I think it's supposed to do, but I've also seen youtube videos that suggest this is an issue on 1st gen P80s and that I will likely have to grind down that sheet metal thing a little).

check your recoil rod channel first make sure it's clear if you have photos of the frame without the slide it would help too take pics of the front channel and the rails as well from the top and side. That's where I would start.

[Royinmontco]

check your recoil rod channel first make sure it's clear if you have photos of the frame without the slide it would help too take pics of the front channel and the rails as well from the top and side. That's where I would start.

The slide fits on the frame and racks smoothly with the barrel and recoil spring, as long as the firing pin and firing pin safety plunger are removed. Here are the pics:

20210116_114137.jpg
20210116_114151.jpg
20210116_114209.jpg
20210116_114249.jpg
20210116_114320.jpg

Edit: You can see my crotch in pic 4. HA HA!!!!

[HKusp 45]

The slide fits on the frame and racks smoothly with the barrel and recoil spring, as long as the firing pin and firing pin safety plunger are removed. Here are the pics:

20210116_114137.jpg
20210116_114151.jpg
20210116_114209.jpg
20210116_114249.jpg
20210116_114320.jpg

Edit: You can see my crotch in pic 4. HA HA!!!!

Looks like that's not a factory trigger housing might be the issue could also be the rear rails need more filing inwards on one side or the other. Measure the rear rails ( or what's left ) with a caliper and see if there's more material on one side vs the other that's canting the slide at the rear.

If that's not the case try an oem trigger housing part number 0322 and we go from there ... this would be easier if you were near lancaster I'd just have you swing by to see whats catching.

[Royinmontco]

If that's not the case try an oem trigger housing part number 0322 and we go from there ... this would be easier if you were near lancaster I'd just have you swing by to see whats catching.

Difficult to measure while the trigger housing is in there. I want to install the barrel block pin before pulling everything out, but I'll update this thread as I learn more.

[HKusp 45]

Difficult to measure while the trigger housing is in there. I want to install the barrel block pin before pulling everything out, but I'll update this thread as I learn more.

As a general rule of thumb fully assembling it before troubleshooting is a good idea. I had someone come by the other day because he was having issues , turns out he just needed to put all the pins in. I keep forgetting a lot of people have not tackled these yet and are unfamiliar with where it start. Yes assemble it 100% just don't loctite the screws in then test fit everything and see if she cycles ( by hand ) then we start to figure out if adjustments need to made.

[Royinmontco]

Well, I got it together and working one time only (cycled a few snap caps through it and then it seized up).

More observations: The ejector is definitely hitting the firing pin sear. Putting the slide on or off requires pushing it (the ejector) over to one side with a screwdriver through the mag well. Also, there seems to be NO trigger action what so ever (I can pull the trigger and it makes a click, but there is no resistance from the firing pin spring at all, and there is no release of the firing pin). Can anybody point to a decent youtube vid that demonstrates how the trigger pack works (without the slide attached)? I think this trigger pack may be out of whack.

I was able to measure the cut depths of the rear slide rails and they are within .005" of each other, so I don't think it's a machining issue.