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  1. #1
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    Default Newbie Questions From research Done

    Hello, just a warning I’m going to have a lot of questions as always, but it is for my safety. I bought the supplies and tools a few years back and with ammo what it is now, time to reload!!!

    I have a Lee Classic Turret Press and I am starting off by loading 9mm and will expand from there once I get comfortable and confident. I have the Lee book and Lyman 49 and have read them but still, a lot of superfluous and confusing info. I have watched so many videos it is mind numbing. I have so many scribblings I look like a madman and some of them are old and I don’t remember what they meant.

    I am coming to the pros here for advice. There will be more as I read more and do what I need to get started however these are from the notes I have already which are confusing me.

    I will separate everything with individual questions by topics, so they are not all jumbled together so here goes:

    Cleaning Brass:

    All the brass I have is either once fired by me or purchased as once fired. This is not mudded up range found brass. I just need it clean to reload, not present to my Drill Sargent for inspection! I have a Frankford Arsenal vibratory cleaner.

    Separate by headstamp? I think no because I am not a super precision shooter and will it matter? Maybe just for rifle when I get to that point?

    No deprime before cleaning? I would think my primer pockets should be fine? Just deprime and size on press after cleaning?

    Why do people wet clean?

    I have corncob, walnut and Nu Finish polish. So, do I mix them all or why the heck did I buy all that lol? I think I am supposed to have a mix of all 3 in the cleaner and then put brass in?

    I also hear people using dryer sheets?

    How long do you vibrate them to get clean?

    How much media do I put in my cleaner?

    Maybe the corncob was for 223/5.56 before reloading but after cleaning, swaging, trim chamfer debur resisizing etc?

    How long can you use the media?


    Powder Measure:


    I’m using a Lee Autodtrum. It is brand new unused.

    Do you actually clean this thing down with alcohol or soapy dawn (hopper) and wipe off not rinse with water? I have heard that.

    I hear people wiping the hopper with dryer sheets?

    Do you add graphite to any parts? Seems like a lot of differing opinions on this. I hear people say wipe all moving parts with graphite but then I’ve heard that powder has graphite in it so no need.

    I hear people sanding down parts, it seems overkill. Thoughts?

    Anything special to keep in mind when installing this? Seems since I don’t have a progressive with the chain attached I need to remove the safety switch/lever so to speak that prevents double charges otherwise I need to reset it every time I fill a case which is not a bad thing too, thoughts?



    Figuring out OAL and charge:


    I know this is a touchy subject an no one wants to give a specific answer so we will deal in generalities. When I look at the Lee book or the Lyman book, I have these questions. So, for the sake of argument I am loading 115gn FMJ or Copper Plated RN.

    I see min OAL and Max OAL but honestly, what OAL do I use because the books differ which is confusing? I was told, 1.125 is a good guide but how the hell did someone come up with that when it could be from 1.01 to 1.169? That’s a big range!!
    Plus, I don’t see specifics for like HP vs. RN ns Plate VS FMJ meaning the Lyman book shows a HP 115 FMJ but no FMJ or plated so what good is that to be since I am using RN plated and FMJ?

    I saw somewhere that Lead usually starts at the lowest and jacketed highest and that plated would start in the middle. Use lead data as a starting point for plated to be the safest? I know it all depends on powder as well but trying to make some sense of all of this.

    How often do you verify charge and OAL when you reload? I have some Wilson gauges as well as calipers and a Dillon balance as well as an Amazon digital scale. What to use and when? I know caliper when I am setting up dies but is the Wilson gauge good enough for in process checks?


    Setting up dies:

    Don’t know where to start with questions here but is there a good resource that wont confuse me further?

    Lighter crimp better?

    I’m using the Lee carbide dies but realistically you all here have a ton of experience so I’m hoping you have sound advice.


    Bear with me please, like I said this is for my safety so I ask meticulously. Thanks!
    Gunowner99 - NRA Benefactor Life Member

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Newbie Questions From research Done

    A lot of the variation between OAL's is due to the specific bullet design. The ojive(Curved part) of the bullet may contact the lands at different OAL's depending on the brand. The front (Point) of the bullet really has nothing to do with the true OAL because there is just open space in front of it. It is just a quick reference.

    Why not read the reloading manual? When I started, Hornady had very good explanations of things in the front of the book. Going online to Forums is a bad place to get information.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Newbie Questions From research Done

    Sheesh, you have more questions than a four year old.

    Being new to reloading I feel your pain so I just said fuck it and jumped in. I got my OAL in the middle, charge near the bottom of the range and washed my brass in a tub with dish detergent and ammonia and rinsed it. I got admonished for adding the ammonia as it deteriorates the brass. Right or wrong that's what I did. I believe that you should drop the finished round into the barrel that you intend to shoot it out of and ensure that it's not too long and the bullet doesn't get stuck there. I believe that if it gets stuck, your OAL is too long for that barrel and you should shorten it a tad. AKA 'the plunk test'.
    Gender confusion is a mental illness

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Newbie Questions From research Done

    For OAL use barrel as gauge (AKA plunk test):
    q7G0i.jpg
    For crimp easiest is to take factory round and place in crimp station, screw die until contact and set die.
    Best way is to use micrometer and measure crimp against SAAMI specs.
    Most manufactures of plated bullets will give recommendations for loading.
    (paging DucatiRon, resident bullet manufacturer expert)
    Check with your brand. Example: https://www.berrysmfg.com/faq
    With range/plinking loads on a semi-progressive press I now generally check primer seating, powder charge, oal and crimp every box, 50 rounds.
    When I started with a single stage press I could check every step of the way.
    Recommend loading a few at a time and testing before making a case of ammo and find out somethings wrong.
    Don't ask me how I know.

    Edit: find someone local who can show you a few things.
    Found bookmark I had for beginning loaders, may help: http://www.three-peaks.net/reload.htm
    Last edited by cephas; December 22nd, 2020 at 05:24 PM.
    It ain't what they call you, it's what you answer to.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Newbie Questions From research Done

    My answers follow your question, at least if I can provide an answer.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gunowner99 View Post
    Hello, just a warning I*m going to have a lot of questions as always, but it is for my safety. I bought the supplies and tools a few years back and with ammo what it is now, time to reload!!!

    I have a Lee Classic Turret Press and I am starting off by loading 9mm and will expand from there once I get comfortable and confident. I have the Lee book and Lyman 49 and have read them but still, a lot of superfluous and confusing info. I have watched so many videos it is mind numbing. I have so many scribblings I look like a madman and some of them are old and I don*t remember what they meant.

    I am coming to the pros here for advice. There will be more as I read more and do what I need to get started however these are from the notes I have already which are confusing me.

    I will separate everything with individual questions by topics, so they are not all jumbled together so here goes:

    Cleaning Brass:

    All the brass I have is either once fired by me or purchased as once fired. This is not mudded up range found brass. I just need it clean to reload, not present to my Drill Sargent for inspection! I have a Frankford Arsenal vibratory cleaner.

    Good a mild tumbling with your choice of walnut or corn cob media should do fine. If you want a little shine add a ca-pfull of Nufinish car wax'

    Separate by headstamp? I think no because I am not a super precision shooter and will it matter? Maybe just for rifle when I get to that point?

    For pistol range ammo no need. If you're doing something that might require superior ammo then might be useful.

    No deprime before cleaning? I would think my primer pockets should be fine? Just deprime and size on press after cleaning?

    Yup! tumbling media tends to get stuck in primer pockets and can be a pia. Also if you're using a rouged tumbling media do not let your case sit in the hopper after tumbling is finished! The rouge has a way of building up in the bottom of the case and occluding the flash hole. Can only be cleaned out by scraping it clean.

    Why do people wet clean? Dunno, I never have

    I have corncob, walnut and Nu Finish polish. So, do I mix them all or why the heck did I buy all that lol? I think I am supposed to have a mix of all 3 in the cleaner and then put brass in? Simple is best put you tumbling media in the hopper add the brass add ONE cap of NuFinish

    I also hear people using dryer sheets? Yes tumbled alone in the media as a way to clean the media an increase the number of times it can be used.

    How long do you vibrate them to get clean? A couple or three hours will do, a quick inspection will tell you when is enough.

    How much media do I put in my cleaner? Fill hopper till it is about 3/4s full then add brass and try it, till you work out the balance you want. Kinda trial and error.

    Maybe the corncob was for 223/5.56 before reloading but after cleaning, swaging, trim chamfer debur resisizing etc? I use finer crushed walnut for rifle cases, rougher corn cob (in fact it is lizard litter) for pistol cases. After cleaning resiize and decap, check case length after resizing, cases that are too long must be trimmed and only trimmed or new case need to be chamfered and deburred.

    How long can you use the media? Dunno for sure, I use mine until I fell guilty about it.

    Powder Measure:


    I*m using a Lee Autodtrum. It is brand new unused. Read and follow the owner's manual that came with the Powder measure!

    Do you actually clean this thing down with alcohol or soapy dawn (hopper) and wipe off not rinse with water? I have heard that. News to me!

    I hear people wiping the hopper with dryer sheets?

    Do you add graphite to any parts? Seems like a lot of differing opinions on this. I hear people say wipe all moving parts with graphite but then I*ve heard that powder has graphite in it so no need. I lubricate moving parts in a way that makes sense to me. Graphite is okay as a dry lube.

    I hear people sanding down parts, it seems overkill. Thoughts? I have sanded or polished parts that seemed to rubbing and hanging up too much. Don't over do it

    Anything special to keep in mind when installing this? Seems since I don*t have a progressive with the chain attached I need to remove the safety switch/lever so to speak that prevents double charges otherwise I need to reset it every time I fill a case which is not a bad thing too, thoughts?

    I don't have first hand experience with this particular Powder measure so if all else fails READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!


    Figuring out OAL and charge:


    I know this is a touchy subject an no one wants to give a specific answer so we will deal in generalities. When I look at the Lee book or the Lyman book, I have these questions. So, for the sake of argument I am loading 115gn FMJ or Copper Plated RN.

    I see min OAL and Max OAL but honestly, what OAL do I use because the books differ which is confusing? I was told, 1.125 is a good guide but how the hell did someone come up with that when it could be from 1.01 to 1.169? That*s a big range!! Use the OAL for the bullet shape that most closely matches yours. The Max OAL is typically the longest that will fit in a magazine. If you're using bullets that have a crimping groove, seat them to the groove and you'll be OK.

    Plus, I don*t see specifics for like HP vs. RN ns Plate VS FMJ meaning the Lyman book shows a HP 115 FMJ but no FMJ or plated so what good is that to be since I am using RN plated and FMJ? Jacketed has its own charge weights start with published starting load for your bullet and work up incrementally until you get the performance you want or need, just don't load above maximum. Plated and coated bullets should typically perform well using the data for Cast lead bullets. Your best source is a bullet manufacturers data, second best is a powder company's data.

    I saw somewhere that Lead usually starts at the lowest and jacketed highest and that plated would start in the middle. Use lead data as a starting point for plated to be the safest? I know it all depends on powder as well but trying to make some sense of all of this. I'm not even sure what you're trying to say here. Cast lead bullets typically use lower charge weights than jacketed, but that is because of the lubricity of the lead compared to copper.

    How often do you verify charge and OAL when you reload? I have some Wilson gauges as well as calipers and a Dillon balance as well as an Amazon digital scale. What to use and when? I know caliper when I am setting up dies but is the Wilson gauge good enough for in process checks? With a well proven load and powder that I know "throws" well in my measure, I start by weighing my loads and making adjustments until I get 3 in row without variation. then I'll check weigh after about 50 rounds, then again at 100. I usually reload pistol stuff in sets of 300 rounds. OAL is set and checked at the start of a session period. Case length is spot checked as cases are sized, when a sample indicates too many over-length, I check further then start trimming.

    Setting up dies:

    Don*t know where to start with questions here but is there a good resource that wont confuse me further?

    Lighter crimp better? Nope. the crimp should be firm enough to keep the bullet from being set back by recoil or the actin of slide stripping a cartridge form the magazine. hold a finished crimped cartridge between thumb and forefinger and squeeze. if it moves a tighter crimp is needed. To start if nothing else is available loosen the crimp die until no cartridge can touch it, take a loaded factory cartridge run it up into your crimp die and adjust the crimp die down onto the loaded cartridge until it touches and stops. Now you have the same amount of crimp as a factory round.

    I*m using the Lee carbide dies but realistically you all here have a ton of experience so I*m hoping you have sound advice. Never worked with em, though I have used Lee Carbide factory crimp dies


    Bear with me please, like I said this is for my safety so I ask meticulously. Thanks!
    Go slow. Read the owner's manuals and other references as you proceed. If some a friend or neighbor is a reloader impose on them to work with you a bit to get you started.


    "Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities".

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Newbie Questions From research Done

    Quote Originally Posted by Gunplummer View Post
    A lot of the variation between OAL's is due to the specific bullet design. The ojive(Curved part) of the bullet may contact the lands at different OAL's depending on the brand. The front (Point) of the bullet really has nothing to do with the true OAL because there is just open space in front of it. It is just a quick reference.

    Why not read the reloading manual? When I started, Hornady had very good explanations of things in the front of the book. Going online to Forums is a bad place to get information.
    I have read the manuals, that is the issue. Not what I had hoped for from them but I will take another look.
    Gunowner99 - NRA Benefactor Life Member

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Newbie Questions From research Done

    I'm far from an expert but I have noticed that at least some of the bullets have OAL's listed on the box.
    Gender confusion is a mental illness

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Newbie Questions From research Done

    Quote Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter View Post
    Sheesh, you have more questions than a four year old.

    Being new to reloading I feel your pain so I just said fuck it and jumped in. I got my OAL in the middle, charge near the bottom of the range and washed my brass in a tub with dish detergent and ammonia and rinsed it. I got admonished for adding the ammonia as it deteriorates the brass. Right or wrong that's what I did. I believe that you should drop the finished round into the barrel that you intend to shoot it out of and ensure that it's not too long and the bullet doesn't get stuck there. I believe that if it gets stuck, your OAL is too long for that barrel and you should shorten it a tad. AKA 'the plunk test'.
    I get you, yeah slow but sure and steady first.I have found some good videos by GunBlue490, Ultimate Reloader and such that are detailed and the gentlemen seems quite knowledgeable. I just want a safe load at a safe OAL that will chamber in a variety of guns, not just one specific one. That was why I asked about a general OAL.
    Last edited by Gunowner99; December 23rd, 2020 at 10:43 AM.
    Gunowner99 - NRA Benefactor Life Member

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Newbie Questions From research Done

    Quote Originally Posted by Gunowner99 View Post
    I get you, yeah slow but sure and heads first.I have found some good videos by GunBlue490, Ultimate Reloader and such that are detailed and the gentlemen seems quite knowledgeable. I just want a safe load at a safe OAL that will chamber in a variety of guns, not just one specific one. That was why I asked about a general OAL.
    So far all I've pulled up my pants and loaded was 115Gr FMJ 9mm and I checked the OAL on my factory stuff and set it for that. Then I used my hipoint carbine to test them in and all went well so I put couple through my H&K USP9C and still worked like they should. One baby step at a time for me. Next up is for me to run a longer run of them and see how well I do.
    Gender confusion is a mental illness

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Newbie Questions From research Done

    Quote Originally Posted by cephas View Post
    For OAL use barrel as gauge (AKA plunk test):
    q7G0i.jpg
    For crimp easiest is to take factory round and place in crimp station, screw die until contact and set die.
    Best way is to use micrometer and measure crimp against SAAMI specs.
    Most manufactures of plated bullets will give recommendations for loading.
    (paging DucatiRon, resident bullet manufacturer expert)
    Check with your brand. Example: https://www.berrysmfg.com/faq
    With range/plinking loads on a semi-progressive press I now generally check primer seating, powder charge, oal and crimp every box, 50 rounds.
    When I started with a single stage press I could check every step of the way.
    Recommend loading a few at a time and testing before making a case of ammo and find out somethings wrong.
    Don't ask me how I know.

    Edit: find someone local who can show you a few things.
    Found bookmark I had for beginning loaders, may help: http://www.three-peaks.net/reload.htm
    That picture has always confused me; what exactly is it showing? I'm not sure any of my barrels look like that. I see feed ramps and a place where the recoil spring goes in.Is it showing the barrel and how the head/end is in it? I assume that is a cutaway of the breech end? Is it showing in the 1st one the cartridge is below the breech, the second it is flush, the 3rd it sticks out but not past extractor potion of cartridge and 4th the extractor part is fully out which is bad?

    I am loading for multiple pistols,so you are saying that I wont be able to use a "general" round and that each may have to be specific to a gun? I understand some are fussy and may work better a certain way.

    As far as SAMMI crimp, I assume that is the 0.381 for 9mm? I have read a lot about heavy and light crimp and it seems that heavy would stress brass more over time wearing it out and would build pressure in the cartridge more. That is why I ask as I want to be safe and not have an accident.

    I'll have to look at load data from bullet mfr, I get that but all I was saying is looking at Lee and LYman, they don't have some of the most basic rounds like plated 115gn RN or a FMJ, lots of hollow and wadcutters, etc...

    To start, I'll check every round for sure and only load 10 max to try out for each "variation"
    Gunowner99 - NRA Benefactor Life Member

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