Newbie Questions From research Done

[TooBigToFit]

For OAL, I take a piece of unprimed brass, and seat a bullet into it, intentionally getting a long OAL. I'll do a plunk test, confirming that it fails the test. Then I will gradually decrease the OAL until the plunk test passes. Then I seat just a smidge deeper than that. Once all of that is done, I confirm that it is above the minimum OAL listed, and then work up a load. Some barrels are tighter than others (I've found my HK barrels to be tighter). I'll do this for the tightest barrel I've got.

Keep in mind OAL is not really the dimension you're really caring about (unless it's so out of wack that it won't fit in your magazine). OAL is more of an easy to measure indicator for case volume and distance to the rifling. Minimum OAL is more about how much case volume the load was developed with. If you go less than that minimum OAL, you're reducing case volume and probably increasing pressure. Maximum OAL is about distance from your bullet's ogive to the rifling. If it's too long, you might not be able to chamber, or you might get higher pressure if it does chamber. The key for both though measures is that it's dependent on the profile of your bullet. You can have two bullets of the same weight, but different OAL requirements because of a different bullet shape.

[Gunowner99]

I'm far from an expert but I have noticed that at least some of the bullets have OAL's listed on the box.

Have not seen any but will keep looking! I measured WWB at 1.15 which seems right? WTH am I doing wrong here?

And I measured what I thought was the crimp and it was 0.375". I measured at the point where the projectile was in the case as I see it gets bigger as you go down the case. I know that has to be wrong but that's what the caliper tells me. Granted, OD of the case. At what point do you measure on the case to get what the crimp diameter is?

[cephas]

"I am loading for multiple pistols,so you are saying that I wont be able to use a "general" round and that each may have to be specific to a gun? I understand some are fussy and may work better a certain way."

No not saying that. As stated by others due to certain bullet profiles adjustments may need to be made. The plunk test confirms that. To get an idea what to look for with your barrel pulled insert factory round and see where rim sits.
Being frugal I use a barrel as basically a case gauge. Perhaps a $20 or so investment in a case gauge would be better for you.

I set my crimp close to SAAMI specs. Most manufactures use their specs and they're loading close or to the max pressure. Their may be a potential of increased pressure if the bullet moved into the case when in a mag during firing due to loose crimp.
When it comes to the brass I think belling the brass for seating the bullet works it more than crimping. So I'm particular with that setting.
Some manuals leave something to be desired. One of the one's from Lee I have lists data for jacketed, lead and then just "bullets". Tried to ask them what "bullets" meant and was told to seek out the manufactures!!
Things are much more informative today. When I started most of the info was generically listed as and example 200 gr roundnose or 200 gr jhp.
Good luck.

[Brick]

That picture has always confused me; what exactly is it showing? I'm not sure any of my barrels look like that. I see feed ramps and a place where the recoil spring goes in.Is it showing the barrel and how the head/end is in it? I assume that is a cutaway of the breech end? Is it showing in the 1st one the cartridge is below the breech, the second it is flush, the 3rd it sticks out but not past extractor potion of cartridge and 4th the extractor part is fully out which is bad?

I am loading for multiple pistols,so you are saying that I wont be able to use a "general" round and that each may have to be specific to a gun? I understand some are fussy and may work better a certain way.

As far as SAMMI crimp, I assume that is the 0.381 for 9mm? I have read a lot about heavy and light crimp and it seems that heavy would stress brass more over time wearing it out and would build pressure in the cartridge more. That is why I ask as I want to be safe and not have an accident.

I'll have to look at load data from bullet mfr, I get that but all I was saying is looking at Lee and LYman, they don't have some of the most basic rounds like plated 115gn RN or a FMJ, lots of hollow and wadcutters, etc...

To start, I'll check every round for sure and only load 10 max to try out for each "variation"

The picture shows a dismounted barrel from a 1911 type pistol. Semi auto cartridges typically headspace on the case mouth. In the illustration cartridges that fall below or above the barrels hood are unsafe for use. Those that are even with the hood are suitable. Any semi-auto with a "swinging barrel" will have a similar hood though slightly different in shape. If you're reloading for multiple handguns of the same caliber a cartridge that passes the plunk test in any particular barrel should be good in any other. In this case the dismounted barrel is being used in place of a case gauge. But if you'd feel more comfortable with a case gauge Dillon and others make them for nearly every caliber.

[Gunowner99]

Thank you all, more reading and thinking to do it seems. I will use my case gauges as I already have them. I am way overthinking this! Corncob with nu finish for handgun is going to work, right? Like I said, overthinking.

I am looking for data on X-Treme plated bullets and all their website says is:

Our Copper Plated Bullets can be run at mid-range jacketed velocities or higher end lead velocities. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp

So then, I go to Lyman 49 and there is no data for a 115gn RN, just HP
Then I go to Lee and it has no data for Power Pistol or Titegroup or Bullseye

See my confusion? Hard to find data on a bullet that I am sure (115gn RN plated) is popular and powder that is readily available and popular.

[ExFlyinguy]

Thank you all, more reading and thinking to do it seems. I will use my case gauges as I already have them. I am way overthinking this! Corncob with nu finish for handgun is going to work, right? Like I said, overthinking.

I am looking for data on X-Treme plated bullets and all their website says is:

Our Copper Plated Bullets can be run at mid-range jacketed velocities or higher end lead velocities. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp

So then, I go to Lyman 49 and there is no data for a 115gn RN, just HP
Then I go to Lee and it has no data for Power Pistol or Titegroup or Bullseye

See my confusion? Hard to find data on a bullet that I am sure (115gn RN plated) is popular and powder that is readily available and popular.

I'm not real impressed with my Lyman 49 either. I pretty much go exclusively with Hornady manual, or I will visit the website for the powder manufacturer

here is one for Power pistol: https://www.alliantpowder.com/reload...8&cartridge=23

As far as cleaning, meh sometimes I clean, sometimes I don't. Depends on how pretty I want them to be. When I do clean I use the walnut/nufinish.

Take your time, make a batch of 5 or 10 and go out and shoot them and see how they work for you. It's hard to accidentally double charge a rifle case, but you have to watch on pistol loads (which would be my biggest caution to you.)

[Gunowner99]

Thank you. Now Lyman 49 has power pistol start at 5.9 for 115 jhp. The Alliant site starts much higher, that discrepancy is quite alarming to me.

[ExFlyinguy]

Thank you. Now Lyman 49 has power pistol start at 5.9 for 115 jhp. The Alliant site starts much higher, that discrepancy is quite alarming to me.

Yes. There are some variations that you will find in published data. Chock it up to lawyers, testing environment, or who knows what, and this is why you will read often people remarking to start in a low or mid range and work up your loads to find your own max load

[Gunplummer]

I am with you. The Hornady manual used to be really good at explaining things. I don't know about the new ones.

[DukeConnor]

Buy this book. Most of your questions will be answered.

https://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloadin.../dp/1440213968

Don't be in a hurry to get the turret moving. Start with one step,such as depriming, learn it and move to the next step. When you have the dies and stations figured out then begin the turret process.

Don't bother with headstamp sorting. Waste of time with handguns.

You don't need to deprime before you tumble.

Tumbler media will last a long time. When the time it takes to clean brass gets excessive, I replace the media.

USED dryer sheets in your powder hopper will help reduce static.

Cut up pieces of paper towels will absorb dirt and dust in your tumbler media. Do not breathe the dust. I dump the brass outdoors to avoid getting dust everywhere. There will be lead residue in it.

9mm is a tapered case. your loaded ammo may have a slight hourglass shape. if it plunks don't worry about it.

Do not over crimp. It will actually cause loose bullets. Crimp enough to remove the bell. Thats it.

Semi auto cartridges index on the case mouth.

Plated bullets are usually loaded to lead velocities. The bullet manufacturer will have recommended max velocities.

Be cautious of altering oal. Pressures can increase dramatically as you seat bullets deeper.

Be aware of crimped primer pockets. Nato brass is usually crimped. Nato brass will have the circle slash symbol stamped on the case head. If you don't remove the crimp you may crush primers. Crimped pockets are usually a bigger deal with rifle but be aware if you have primer seating issues.

Have a friend shoot your first loads