Pennsylvania Firearm Owners Association
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  1. #11
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    Default Re: Looking for someone with expertise in 80% lower milling

    I've done tons and I use the 5d tactical jig and router. The 5d 80% arms and modulus are all the same and best jigs on the market. They make it so easy it's crazy. I started with a cheap jig from anderson and used my drill press took about 4 hours from start to finish and looked ok, not perfect. Then I got the juggernaut tactical jig and it's nice but wanted a router jig so got the 5d and can now do them in about 45min and they're beautiful. I actually rent my jig out to people who don't want to pay the money for the setup if they only want to do a few. I only use Americangunsmithtooling.com mill and drill bits. Absolutely the best there is hands down. I've done 20 on the set I have now and still cut like butter. I have new sets I send out with rental. But if you have questions let me know. I'd be more than happy to help. Anericanmadetactical.com has some really nice lowers or juggernaut has the best billet. They're expensive but they're beautiful especially their enhanced ones and I love the screw in bolt catch. No pin bull crap messing up the side lol. So let me know if you have anymore questions. I'm near Freeland.

  2. #12
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    May 2018
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    Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
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    Default Re: Looking for someone with expertise in 80% lower milling

    The Juggernaut Tac. lowers look nice, however, they are 6061 aluminum.....FAR inferior strength to 7075. And at their price, it leaves question. But using a fancy coating accounts for some of the price gouge anyway. I*m also not a fan a of the giant JT logo. I don*t like free advertising on my ARs. I*M the one finish Machining & assembling. Considering AMT uses 7075-T6 billet & cost almost HALF the price of the JT lowers, Juggernaut just are not what I think of as the best.
    Remember Biden the Pedophile! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSRqaO6DXcA

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
    (Dauphin County)
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    Default Re: Looking for someone with expertise in 80% lower milling

    I'm considering buying a 80% lower any chance someone could loan me tools and maybe a jig? I don't have a work area, or much in the way of power tools. I have two old Dewalt/Black and Decker battery operated drills, no routers, no vices, not even a table I could work on. I'd buy my own bits, all I would need is a workspace, and possibly a router if my drills can handle the drilling. I know I'm needy, I'm on a very strict budget and wouldn't expect to have the rifle complete before the end of next year without some sort of cash windfall. Wherever I could save money would be a plus and I figure get the lower done first, then I could slowly buy the rest of the parts as I find deals/parts I really like or want.
    "Sometimes reasonable men must do unreasonable things."- Marvin Heemeyer

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Where the amish roam, Pennsylvania
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    Default Re: Looking for someone with expertise in 80% lower milling

    Quote Originally Posted by spandexlurch View Post
    I'm considering buying a 80% lower any chance someone could loan me tools and maybe a jig? I don't have a work area, or much in the way of power tools. I have two old Dewalt/Black and Decker battery operated drills, no routers, no vices, not even a table I could work on. I'd buy my own bits, all I would need is a workspace, and possibly a router if my drills can handle the drilling. I know I'm needy, I'm on a very strict budget and wouldn't expect to have the rifle complete before the end of next year without some sort of cash windfall. Wherever I could save money would be a plus and I figure get the lower done first, then I could slowly buy the rest of the parts as I find deals/parts I really like or want.
    for the price and what you get this jig will probably be the best option

    https://www.brokenarmory.com/product...er-jig-jig-15/

    The 5d and easy jigs are tough to come by without waiting several (7-8 ) weeks. I use a router jig now I used a small mini mill prior , I will echo what a lot have said first lube lots of lube tap magic makes an aluminum cutting fluid that works from what I hear. I have a bottle that is taking the place of my vipers venom ( which really worked well too)

    Second go slow regardless of the method .... shallow passes unless your doing it drill press plunge style... and even then go slow. have a shop vac handy clean out your chips regularly saves your bits , makes the finished product better because the chips don't scar up the walls.

    Do not buy the cheapest jig you can find don't do it, the range for a decent drill press jig starts at around $89.00 for older models that you might find - $180.00 do not get that cheap $49.99 thing with two square plates and thin metal templates they aren't worth the hassle and one slip you ruin the jig ( experience speaking learn from mine ... it's cheaper that way)

    Billet is easier to machine than forged, forged is stronger than billet and harder to machine which means shallower passes and more lube. Do not drill your trigger pin holes and safety selector holes all the way through one of them will end up in the wrong place. Use good tooling and good drill bits ... and lube (did I mention lube)

    If you are on the fence buy a couple cheap polymer ones ( EP Armory) or defective non functional aluminum blems if you can find them and practice a little. The polymer is more so you get a feel for depth and how to do it, hell you might even get a good one( EP armory is OK I would not trust my life to it but plinker all day). Finally when you find a deal grab several the lowest price I have found right now is $49.99 shipped ( if they are even still in stock) that's a basic 7075 forged raw lower. But they do make really cool ones too, as for 6061 billet vs 7075 well 7075 is better most high end handguards are 6061 ..... take that for what it's worth I have yet to see either be an issue.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
    (Dauphin County)
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    Default Re: Looking for someone with expertise in 80% lower milling

    Quote Originally Posted by HKusp 45 View Post
    for the price and what you get this jig will probably be the best option

    https://www.brokenarmory.com/product...er-jig-jig-15/

    The 5d and easy jigs are tough to come by without waiting several (7-8 ) weeks. I use a router jig now I used a small mini mill prior , I will echo what a lot have said first lube lots of lube tap magic makes an aluminum cutting fluid that works from what I hear. I have a bottle that is taking the place of my vipers venom ( which really worked well too)

    Second go slow regardless of the method .... shallow passes unless your doing it drill press plunge style... and even then go slow. have a shop vac handy clean out your chips regularly saves your bits , makes the finished product better because the chips don't scar up the walls.

    Do not buy the cheapest jig you can find don't do it, the range for a decent drill press jig starts at around $89.00 for older models that you might find - $180.00 do not get that cheap $49.99 thing with two square plates and thin metal templates they aren't worth the hassle and one slip you ruin the jig ( experience speaking learn from mine ... it's cheaper that way)

    Billet is easier to machine than forged, forged is stronger than billet and harder to machine which means shallower passes and more lube. Do not drill your trigger pin holes and safety selector holes all the way through one of them will end up in the wrong place. Use good tooling and good drill bits ... and lube (did I mention lube)

    If you are on the fence buy a couple cheap polymer ones ( EP Armory) or defective non functional aluminum blems if you can find them and practice a little. The polymer is more so you get a feel for depth and how to do it, hell you might even get a good one( EP armory is OK I would not trust my life to it but plinker all day). Finally when you find a deal grab several the lowest price I have found right now is $49.99 shipped ( if they are even still in stock) that's a basic 7075 forged raw lower. But they do make really cool ones too, as for 6061 billet vs 7075 well 7075 is better most high end handguards are 6061 ..... take that for what it's worth I have yet to see either be an issue.
    I ended up buying a forged lower from American Made tactical, and their jig kit, just before they raised their prices on the lowers. Came out to something along the lines of $220. Also bought a full upper with barrel, mlok free float handguard, and gas system from Moriarti armaments for $315 after shipping. Picked up a compact Bauer router and Baur titanium coated drill bits from Harbor Freight. Most of this I was able to pick up from what little I save and the extra $600 the government decided to give me back from the "stimulus". I found the tap magic at granger, all I need now are a bcg, charging handle, pistol grip, and all the small lower pieces including the trigger parts.
    "Sometimes reasonable men must do unreasonable things."- Marvin Heemeyer

  6. #16
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    Oct 2020
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    Lancaster, Pennsylvania
    (Lancaster County)
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    Default Re: Looking for someone with expertise in 80% lower milling

    So I have a 5d jig and everything you'd need. Msg me and you can Def rent it or come to my place. I rent everything you need in 1 package deal for $70 a week.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
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    allentown, Pennsylvania
    (Lehigh County)
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    Default Re: Looking for someone with expertise in 80% lower milling

    +1. We've used 5D tactical for a few years on poly and aluminium.

  8. #18
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    May 2018
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    Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
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    Default Re: Looking for someone with expertise in 80% lower milling

    I was reading through some old stuff, just catching up. I wanted to comment on something here. Just because I*m sick of misinformation being passed on. A post was made claiming *Forged* lowers are stronger than Billet lowers. This is ONLY true if the Billet lowers used are 6061-T6 aluminum. I use ONLY AMT Billet lowers, which are made with the same 7075-T6 aluminum as are Forged lowers. They have the SAME strength & are equally difficult to machine. Being Forged or Billet have NOTHING to do with strength. A Billet simply means it was CNC*d from a single larger block of the Aluminum...a *Billet*. But what people don*t understand is that the Billets are have already been FORGED! Aluminum is pressed into whatever thickness by HUGE machines. This is forging. This same MYTH is also perpetuation by knife smiths, & it*s simply untrue. The grade of Aluminum is what determines strength. Or, if it were cast. But Billets used for lowers are not cast Aluminum, so that is mute. Just an FYI to discourage ignorance.
    Remember Biden the Pedophile! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSRqaO6DXcA

  9. #19
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    Dec 2011
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    Where the amish roam, Pennsylvania
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    Default Re: Looking for someone with expertise in 80% lower milling

    Quote Originally Posted by DavidH View Post
    I was reading through some old stuff, just catching up. I wanted to comment on something here. Just because I*m sick of misinformation being passed on. A post was made claiming *Forged* lowers are stronger than Billet lowers. This is ONLY true if the Billet lowers used are 6061-T6 aluminum. I use ONLY AMT Billet lowers, which are made with the same 7075-T6 aluminum as are Forged lowers. They have the SAME strength & are equally difficult to machine. Being Forged or Billet have NOTHING to do with strength. A Billet simply means it was CNC*d from a single larger block of the Aluminum...a *Billet*. But what people don*t understand is that the Billets are have already been FORGED! Aluminum is pressed into whatever thickness by HUGE machines. This is forging. This same MYTH is also perpetuation by knife smiths, & it*s simply untrue. The grade of Aluminum is what determines strength. Or, if it were cast. But Billets used for lowers are not cast Aluminum, so that is mute. Just an FYI to discourage ignorance.
    I think they mean the corners and area's like that because it is forged at that point become stronger as opposed to a single billet that is forged then machined, the pressures are not specifically focused on certain area's as those area' s have been milled away ( in this case the corners of said billet) Overall I've never had an issue machining either ( but tap magic for aluminum is now my friend as are quality endmills)

  10. #20
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    Default Re: Looking for someone with expertise in 80% lower milling

    Quote Originally Posted by HKusp 45 View Post
    I think they mean the corners and area's like that because it is forged at that point become stronger as opposed to a single billet that is forged then machined, the pressures are not specifically focused on certain area's as those area' s have been milled away ( in this case the corners of said billet) Overall I've never had an issue machining either ( but tap magic for aluminum is now my friend as are quality endmills)
    I get what you are saying, but it doesn*t matter either way. Remember, even Forged Lowers are machined. Lowers are only Forged to the basic shape. I know what has been said over & over. Because people hear so & so say it so it must be fact, right? But this is a MYTH in metallurgy. The fact is strength, (ie.YIELD in aluminum), is the same between Forged & Billet components of the same material.
    Remember Biden the Pedophile! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSRqaO6DXcA

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