Pennsylvania Firearm Owners Association
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Thread: Sticky

  1. #11
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    Default Re: Sticky

    Aerosol polyurethane is your friend
    A few coats lightly sanded between each, once and done, very durable and water resistant

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Sticky

    A little heat always helps with oils and waxes (if the wife can stand the smell in the kitchen). Bump the oven, turn it off, and let the piece sit and warm to 130F-140F. As noted above, apply multiple light coats. This also works well to push mink oil into leather boots!
    Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God.

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Sticky

    I prefer tung oil. I like the way it looks better, it's easy to use, and it smells nice.

    https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/o...ung-chinawood/

  4. #14
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    Default Re: Sticky

    I've used it dozens of times and it works great, apply it with a small piece of cheese cloth and run it in thoroughly in small circles working Until the wood. Once you have a solid even coat I allow it to soak in and dry for 12-24 hrs. Before I start the next application I take 000 steel wool and gently knock down the high spots to make sure the stock is even. Clean off any metal from the steel wool. Rinse and repeat.

    Like all things in wood working if your initial cleaning and prep suck then so will your new finish.

  5. #15
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    Shamokin, Pennsylvania
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    Default Re: Sticky

    As others have said, low and slow....just like BBQ. I had a Mosin once that I made the stock smooth as the proverbial baby's butt with little more than careful BLO application and steel wool. Took a couple weeks to get it there though

  6. #16
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    Default Re: Sticky

    Might I add just one thing.

    1 time a day for a week.

    1 time a week for a month.

    1 time a month for a year.

    1 time a year after that.

    That is the old time way.

    I like to use lemon oil for the once a year part.
    The Gun is the Badge of a Free Man

  7. #17
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    Default Re: Sticky

    I always see some really nice stocks on Garands and other surplus rifles on a certain gun show dealers tables. He said he uses tung oil thinned with lacquer thinner! Yes , lacquer thinner! Soaks in deeper and dries faster.
    I don't speak English , I talk American!

  8. #18
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    Default Re: Sticky

    Quote Originally Posted by Delkal View Post
    Here is my stock refinishing procedure that I posted on the CMP forums many years ago.....found it on my computer. This goes into more detail than the procedure I describe in my last post. With enough work you can turn a very dry stock to a glass smooth stock like on a quality old school rifle. A few light coats is fine if you just want to do a quick refresh of a dry stock.
    Haha. That is the info I used for my M1. Small world.

    Thanks.

  9. #19
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    Default Re: Sticky

    Quote Originally Posted by abner13 View Post
    I always see some really nice stocks on Garands and other surplus rifles on a certain gun show dealers tables. He said he uses tung oil thinned with lacquer thinner! Yes , lacquer thinner! Soaks in deeper and dries faster.
    I use 1:1 linseed and turpentine. I don't think lacquer thinner will work since they usually contain alcohol and acetone. You will have to check that it will mix with the linseed and it will probably evaporate too fast.

    All of the old gunsmithing books use turpentine. It is a little smelly but it evaporates at the right rate to help the oil penetrate.

    Quote Originally Posted by DukeConnor View Post
    Haha. That is the info I used for my M1. Small world.

    Thanks.
    Wow. I posted that 10-20 years ago. Nice to see the writeup went to good use.

  10. #20
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    Default Re: Sticky

    Yeah , I've always used turpentine for oils myself , but if ya ever saw The Garand Guys at the shows , you know their stocks looks good , and he told me lacquer thinner.
    I don't speak English , I talk American!

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