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Thread: Sticky

  1. #1
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    Unhappy Sticky

    On YouTube videos I see everybody using boiled linseed oil. I've tried it several times, and for me it just doesn't work. Last time I tried I let the stock hang for 24 hours, but it was still sticky. I even tried cutting it with mineral spirits, but that didn't do anything. Am I doing something wrong, is my linseed oil bad, I know you guys refinish stocks and other stuff, is there a trick to using it ?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Sticky

    OP unclear, stuck thread.
    Rules are written in the stone,
    Break the rules and you get no bones,
    all you get is ridicule, laughter,
    and a trip to the house of pain.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Sticky

    Linseed oil can give a beautiful finish but it takes time to do a gunstock right. You need to wipe the smallest amount on and rub it with your fingers then wait a few min then rub it around some more to re-cover the dry spots. Then hang it somewhere warm overnight. The next day you repeat it then every day for a week (or more). Hopefully using less oil each time. If it is still sticky the next day you are using too much. When it looks like it is almost finished and the wook pores are closed take some OOOO steel wool and rub everything off. You will just take off the exterior excess oil. Put a few drops of oil on the stock and rub it around again. Let it sit a few days and if there are any bad spots touch them up with a few drops again.

    If your first stock is still sticky, or it was sticky for a week and eventually dried, use some steel wool and take all the surface residue off and start back with a few drops for a few days. With an oil finish the coating should be in the wood.


    Remember linseed oil rags can catch fire spontaneously. Burn them somewhere safe each time you use one.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Sticky

    You have to add a hardener or else it will always be tacky. Iíve done straight BLS and it is a pain. I would suggest using Linspeed instead.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Sticky

    I meant BLO not BLS

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Sticky

    Quote Originally Posted by heatheroo View Post
    You have to add a hardener or else it will always be tacky. I*ve done straight BLS and it is a pain. I would suggest using Linspeed instead.
    Boiled linseed already has hardeners in it and will dry if you add thin coats and give it time to dry between applications. If you start running out of patience and it is going too slow you can add a few drops of Japan drier and the linseed will harden faster.

    I did do a Linspeed finish once. It must have an extreme amount of driers in it. It goes on thick and when it dries it gave me a hard shiny exterior coating. It looked good on the type of rifle I refinished but I would not use it on an old military rifle. It would be too shiny for me.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Sticky

    Do a little at a time, and rub with your finger/hands until they get slightly warm.

    Also, you might already know this, but just in case you don't, be careful if you have BLO soaked rags or cloths. They can warm up as they oxidize, posing a fire hazard.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Sticky

    The cmp forum has some really good info on howvto do this. i followed the advice when I got my M1 and it came out really nice. Delkal's post is how zi did mine.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Sticky

    Here is my stock refinishing procedure that I posted on the CMP forums many years ago.....found it on my computer. This goes into more detail than the procedure I describe in my last post. With enough work you can turn a very dry stock to a glass smooth stock like on a quality old school rifle. A few light coats is fine if you just want to do a quick refresh of a dry stock.

    Use only pure Linseed (Boiled is preferable) or pure Tung oil mixed 1:1 with turpentine (read the ingredients label!) Most commercial "Tung oils" contain little, if any, Tung oil. They are rubbing varnishes. The trick with these oils is to put as much as the stock will absorb , let it sit about an hour, rub everything in by hand, let it sit again, then WIPE IT ALL OFF and let it sit overnight. Only the oil absorbed by the wood will harden and fill the pores. Repeat this every day until there are no places on the wood that keep absorbing the finish or open pores (Days, weeks, or until you get tired of doing it). Towards the end it will take only a few drops to 1/2 teaspoon, just keep rubbing it in by hand, let it sit, then wipe it ALL off. By then you should see no open pores or dry spots.

    Now here's the secret.......let the stock dry for a week or two, take some fine steel wool and rub all of the dried oil off!!!! Yes, I said rub off all of your hard work! This will only remove the surface oxidized *dead* excess oil. The wood underneath will be saturated with all of the pores filled. Follow up with a few drops fresh oil and start rubbing. The stock will glow!

    This is the classic oil finish and in my opinion cannot be duplicated. Few people will do this commercially any more because of the time involved. Its just a few minutes each day, but it can take weeks depending on how much of a perfectionist you are. This is also an original finish. The same thing happens over YEARS when GI's keep oiling the stocks for inspections. This will give your stock the look of a fine classic old Rifle or Shotgun. No open pores and a totally smooth surface where every detail of the grain shows through. Not too shiny either.

    PS*..Never keep the used oiled rags in a pile, they can generate heat and spontaneously ignite! If its just one small rag I just lay it on a concrete floor. Not enough heat is concentrated and it shouldn't (hopefully) catch fire. Or store them soaking in water in a metal container and make sure it NEVER dries. Or, best yet, just go out back and burn them in your grill.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Sticky

    I*ve had good results using tru-oil from birch wood Casey. Easy to apply, dries quickly, you can adjust the sheen on a finished stock. Holds up well on the .22 target rifles I put together for the grandkids.

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