Tombstone Arms out of business

[onefunzr2]

I bought from them last month a Nagant 1895 target, single action revolver in the 7.62x38 Nagant caliber. It took until this month until I could obtain ammo from Southern Ohio Gun...the HotShot FPJ 98gr variety...new not reloaded.

It won't fire. There is only a very light firing pin indent. As some others suggested, this revolver will also fire 32 S&W Long, and 32 H&R magnum ammo. I tried both and they didn't fire either. The action is free; not gummed up. It seems to function fine other than its main purpose--to actually go bang!

The first thing I thought was to change out the hammer spring. But Gun Parts Corp doesn't list that part.

Any suggestions? I can't even find Tombstone's phone number to get the owner, M.S. Askins thoughts.

Has anyone had to resort to welding extra length to the firing pin?

[kevindsingleton]

You first need to determine the cause of the problem.

From what you've described, it's either a firing pin that doesn't reach, or a hammer that doesn't hit hard enough.

Once you've determined which it is (or if it's something else), then a solution can be suggested. As it is, if someone recommends lengthening the firing pin, and the problem is a weak mainspring, you're not going to be happy with the result.

Is the firing pin integral to the hammer, like on most single action revolvers?

[knight0334]

Its a good thing that H&R didn't go bang because your fingers could have been part of the fireworks show. BTW, just because it fits in the chamber and shoots it - its doesn't mean its safe. You will not get proper gas seal with the other cartridges.

If you are getting light indents, likely problem is a weak hammer/main spring, possible coupled with a worn down firing pin. Welding onto the existing pin would probably make the rest of the pin/hammer fail. The heat would remove the tempering of the pin. You would have to retemper the entire pin.


Buy a new one.
http://www.buymilitaria.com/m1895_ht...r_assembly.htm

[onefunzr2]

Thanks, knight0334, for that milsurp link. I ordered another mainspring. If that doesn't correct my problem then I'll fire up my Lincoln Electric Squarewave Tig machine and lengthen the firing pin...off the hammer, of course.

The 32 H&R mag case was a lead bullet, lower powered reload just to see if it worked. Believe me, I want to keep all my body parts around as long as possible.

[knight0334]

Thanks, knight0334, for that milsurp link. I ordered another mainspring. If that doesn't correct my problem then I'll fire up my Lincoln Electric Squarewave Tig machine and lengthen the firing pin...off the hammer, of course.

The 32 H&R mag case was a lead bullet, lower powered reload just to see if it worked. Believe me, I want to keep all my body parts around as long as possible.

You're plenty welcome.

New hammers(assuming used) with pins were between $4 and $12 depending on your model. I'd think it'd be easier to drive out the staked or roll pin on a replacement and your original and replace the firing pin than risk messing with the tempering of the pin on a weld job.

[onefunzr2]

Firing pins alone are now $22 plus shipping!

[knight0334]

hmmm.. maybe those hammer dont come with pins. lol

$22 is kinda steep for a pin.

Hell, for that I'm sure you can manufacture one from bar stock.

Be sure to retemper it.

Weld and heat entire pin to high temps. Drop in oil. Then heat for an hour or so in your kitchen oven at about 450'F.

[Dave_n]

The Nagant Target has a simple fix. I had exactly the same problem and it is due to a mainspring that has been filed down. Now replacing the mainspring is not the way to go.

Simply remove the left hand side plate and insert a rolled up rubber band, one that is about 30 mm long by 5 mm wide into the "V" of the mainspring, replace sideplate and enjoy.

There is a fully described method with photos for removal of the parts (and do not use any of the ideas given earlier, as I do not think that the poster has ever seen this particular model) on the web. Simply Google Nagant target model disassembly and download the full set. I picked up the complete disassembly CD from MilitarySurplus.com a couple of years ago. Well worth the few dollars.

You can happily use 0.32 longs in this revolver without any problem other than having to resize each time. There is also a 0.32 ACP cylinder that you can buy that will fit, but requires some timing adjustments.

However, be very careful if you make and use the 32-20 reloads using the resizing dies sold by a couple of companies. Each Target revolver has variable distances between the cylinder backplate and the back of the cylinder when the revolver is cocked (and the target is SA only) and the gun can jam shut with a cocked hammer, a loaded cartridge and a trigger that will not move the hammer down. Not a happy state of affairs.

If you ask how do I know? Well it happened to me using 32-20 reloads that function perfectly in the regular SA/DA Nagant that I also own.

An entertaing gun to take to the range, particularly if somebody is there showing off their 7 shot S&W or Taurus and you point out that the Russian weapon (Courtesy of Belgium) was a 7 shooter back in the 1890s!! Dave_n

[onefunzr2]

Thanks Dave n, I'll give that rubber band trick a try while I wait for the new mainspring to arrive.

[Dave_n]

Removing and replacing the mainspring is not that easy as it does require disassembling the trigger group and the hammer group. I recommend getting all of the info that you can with photographs on working on the Nagant lockwork as it is quite different from a regular revolver. Dave_n