School me on S&W military & police/model 10 revolvers

[Jay5oh]

In a little while I may have to train with a S&W model 10/military police .38cal revolver for employment. In doing some research it appears these are pretty popular and the older ones are a bit collectible. I'd like to get one now and practice with it but until I secure the/a job I can't spend the money. What are some things to look for in these?

If you have any experience with one please let me know. Pics are always good too

[aryfrosty]

I bought my first M-10 in 1971. To me the classic look with the pencil barrel is one of the timelessly perfect pictures. They are dependable and accurate and wear like iron if the shooter does their job and doesn't overload them. I have a five screw M-10 which was converted to a PPC gun about 20 years ago...with a stainless 6" bull barrel and a Wichita sight rib. It was left "in the white" and it is far more accurate than I am worthy of. I don't care, personally, for the heavy barreled versions. They are just icing on an already magnificent cake and add unneeded weight. In my experience the accuracy of the M-10 series seems inversely proportional to barrel length. I have a 2" M-10 that is an X-ring gun at distances up to 25 yards. I also have a 2" converted to .357 magnum by a reputable gunsmith which is accurate beyond reason. I have seen good M-10s in 4" and 6" in local gunshops for under $300. You can't go wrong with a good M-10 variant. Regards; Al

[QuakertownRich]

I own a S&W mdl 64-3(stainless version of mdl 10) 4" bull barrel, 38spl.

It is an M&P model and actually has "Pittsburgh Police" stamped on backstrap. I bought on gunbroker last year for $255 and believe it to be the best buy I've ever got there, and I've bought alot. Very accurate, tight lockup and the bull barrel helps when I shoot +p's through it.

[chalmitch]

This series of handgun probably rivals the 1911 in cult following. From their introduction they were popular and over their long span have proven to be reliable. The {K Frame} frame is the basis for many other S & W products.

Trigger - might need a $75 stone job to make it slick for life

Sights - many models are combat sights, front blade with a channel for the rear sight; adjustable sights are available and common. Old school combat .45 shooters would use a S & W adjustable rear sight on their Colt semi-autos their is probably no better design.

Barrel - length and taper are strictly a personal choice for looks or ergonomics or sensation {when the trigger is pulled and the round goes off}

Have fun shopping. You will find them from $150 - $450 for used police models.

Best regards,
chalmitch

[TonyF]

In a little while I may have to train with a S&W model 10/military police .38cal revolver for employment. In doing some research it appears these are pretty popular and the older ones are a bit collectible. I'd like to get one now and practice with it but until I secure the/a job I can't spend the money. What are some things to look for in these?

If you have any experience with one please let me know. Pics are always good too

I own two. No make that three. One is the standard 4 inch tapered barrel. The other is the 4 inch heavy barrel and the last is a Hong Kong P.D. import with a lanyard ring.

The std. and heavy bbl. are older specimens with pinned barrels and recessed frames.

The Model 10 is the ultimate "classic" S&W revolver. This is the heavy bbl.

Avoid the newer models with the internal lock. For hunting or strictly range use they're OK but as they're prone to failure, I wouldn't choose one for self defense.

[Mity2]

I have Model 65, which is Stainless version of Model 13, which is a .357 Magnum version of the heavy-barrel variant of the classic Model 10.


I bought it used for less then $300, and its about as reliable firearm can get.
It never miss beat, never fail to go bang, and if it does(due to poor ammo or something), pull trigger again!

Its accurate, specialy used with WC ammo, or any other 38sp load.
recoil is VERY mild with 38. Infact, my GF loves this thing.

shooting full .357mag is no fun due to cheap service grip tho

Model 10(or k frame in general) is like your dad's old truck - It just keep going, going, and going...

[Jay5oh]

Thanks guys!

Can someone elaborate on the 'screws'. I see '5 screw' and other amounts of screws. I understand it to mean the amount of screws on the right side of the gun? What is the signifigance of number of screws?

Tony I won't be buying new thats for sure. Probably end up with a LE trade in, they seem to go for ~$225 or so

I know a .38 doesn't recoil much (I've had 2 in the past) but does there seem to be a noticible difference between the taper and heavy barrel?

Pinned barrel vs non-pinned barrel. Difference? Pro's/Con's?

[brian]

even if you don't get the job, it's one of "those" guns that you should have.

[aryfrosty]

Jay5oh....I'm not an expert, but will share what little I don't know with you. The "5 Screws" have 4 screws holding the sideplate on and a screw in the front of the trigger guard holding tension on the cylinder latch. Later than that the "4 screw" models had the front of the trigger guard screw off but kept the 4 screws on the sideplate. Modern S&W revolvers have 3 screws on the sideplate. To me, personally, the earlier the model the better the gun. My PPC, ( Thumper), is a 5 screw and I have lovingly worked on it until it is, to me, the most perfect revolver I've ever fired. It has NEVER failed to fire. The action is as smooth as glass. And I use Remington 130 grain hardball exclusively. It's a shame that PPC matches have gone belly up.

[Jay5oh]

So the 5 screw would be preferred over the 4 and the 4 would be preferred over the 3?

Thanks!