SMALL Weapon Lights for AR15 Pistols / SBRs

[Emptymag]

Crimson Trace CWL-102 light kit arrived today.

I'm having trouble getting the M-LOK pieces to work on the mount, but I'll figure it out eventually.
It comes with the Keymod tabs installed and you have to swap them, but the directions are "verbal only" - no diagram - and it's slightly confusing.

Initial thoughts:
- Very nicely made for a Chinese light.
-The finish is a nice, FLAT black.
- It's plenty bright at 500 lumens without being blinding.
- The tail cap switch is nice - the momentary switch works well - not too hard of a press required, and not so soft that it accidentally clicks "on" when you don't intend it to.
- The size is as perfect as I could ask for. At 4" in total length it will work.
- The Crimson Trace tail cap WORKS with my old Romisen RC-N3 light with a bad switch!!! Now I need to find out if I can order a tail cap. I doubt it, but I'm going to look. If nothing else, I could use the pressure switch cap on it and put it on a different gun. I hated to throw out a light just because the clicky cap stopped working.
- The included Picitinny/1913 rail mount that comes with it could be used to mount a separately purchased light onto another gun!

Hopefully I can get it mounted up and get some pics tomorrow.

[garman18]

At the risk of causing thread drift, I would also like to contribute this little fact to the thread...

The Surefire X300 and M600 use the exact same head. Always have. This has been disputed for some time, but all you have to do is call Surefire and they will confirm.

If you want the performance of a Scout series light, but in an SBR size footprint, simply attach an X300 instead. The ambidextrous switching is nice, and a pressure pad capable tailcap exists should you require one.

You cannot have too many lumens, or too much candela. If you are getting splash off of cover or barricades your light placement isn't optimized, or you aren't using the cover correctly. If you are being blinded by white walls, don't aim your light at the walls, or stare at the hotspot. Use of proper technique will mitigate every issue that comes with the extra horsepower.

[Emptymag]

The more info shared, the better!

This place got it's start by people helping each other out.
We need more threads/posts like this and less Lounge nonsense.

[Emptymag]

I got the light mounted, but the forward M-LOK screw protrudes too far and comes into contact with the cone shaped muzzle device.
Obviously not good - imagine the heat transfer that would provide to the mount.
If I had turned the muzzle device just a smidge more when it was installed, the bolt would have cleared because it's right at the edge of where the wrench flats are located.

How I'm Googling for tips on cutting a bolt without damaging the threads.
It's going to be a challenge because there's not much I actually need to remove. - maybe one, or two threads - and they are pretty small.

So you can see what I mean about the wrench flats...

[Gunsnwater]

Get a nut. Screw it into the nut. Cut off threads. Unscrew nut. Use a pin vice to hold screw and file a slight bevel to make a lead (pronounced leed).

Use a diamond file, no burrs. (Screw it I can’t spell)

[Emptymag]

Get a nut. Screw it into the nut. Cut off threads. Unscrew nut. Use a pin vice to hold screw and file a slight bevel to make a lead (pronounced leed).

Use a diamond file, no burrs. (Screw it I can’t spell)

About 5 videos showed that exact method. Only difference is none were working with such a tiny bolt.
I guess I could just use the M-Lok nut.

Actually wondering if I could just use a metal file and file off the first thread or two, then use the nut the same way to "cut" the threads at the end back into shape.
It may be a bitch to cut such a small piece off with a hack saw.

[USMC3531]

Mount it to the handguard and file off the excess, just be careful when putting the screw in again

[Emptymag]

Mount it to the handguard and file off the excess, just be careful when putting the screw in again

I'd do less damage to everything by simply filing down the screw by itself rather than taking the hand guard off and running a file along the inside of the hand guard - which is pretty narrow.


After installing the second light on the 5.56 pistol, I'm confident that using a file will work.
The screws on that one would barely turn through the M-Lok T-Nuts. They spun in freely initially by hand, so they were not cross threaded, but as I tightened them to where they actually protrude through the T-Nut, the nuts were shaving off (a tiny amount) material from the screws, so the metal must be super soft.

[Emptymag]

Teaser pic.

I took a bunch of pics from various angles.
Will upload later.

[Emptymag]

Crimson Trace CWL-102
link

I really couldn't have asked for a better fit.
I just used the M-LOK mount and stuck both of them on the left side.
That's really the only option I have using the mounts that they came with. I could probably get offset mounts to move them up a little, but honestly, I can hit them with my thumb just fine where they are, and they aren't in the way.
The only other option would be mounting them on the right and using a pressure switch on the left, but that's just introducing more crap that I'm trying to avoid.

Maybe on a carbine, I will do things differently (or not), but for THESE guns, I'm happy with the results.





Sort of kicking myself for ordering hand stops because the lights pretty much serve in that role too.