AK-SKS 14mm-1.0 Die HELP!!!!!!

[DrakinClaw]

Ok, Iv been looking around and im stuck. Im looking to thread my WASR's Barrel with a.......http://www.floridagunworks.com/Merch...K+MUZZLEBREAKS
However in order to thread it, i need to get this.....
http://www.floridagunworks.com/Merch...K+MUZZLEBREAKS
If i do get the die i will also get the alignment tool.
I have threaded other non firearm things before so i am familar with the process.
My question to the gunsmith gods is, is this something that can be done with a Moderate work bench with a good solid vice to hold everything in place? Or can i really f*ck up my barrel. Now i know there is "risk" involved in any home project, but with someone semi-skilled with working with tools, can this be done? Is alightment down to .001 required?
Drakin

[DrakinClaw]

Bump to top, can anyone help me out with info!
Drakin

[Karys]

Drak,

I'm no gunsmith god, but I threaded the barrel of my WASR right after the '94 AWB ended. I put an AMD-65 muzzle break on it and haven't looked back.

All I used was the die. There was no alignment tool with it. A buddy of mine rented it off of someone on the net. With the flash hider you want, I don't think it has to be aligned to the last thousandth of an inch, but personally I would get the alignment tool. I think the job would have been a lot easier if I had one.

You should be fine with your average, everyday work vice. I actually started threading my barrel by holding the rifle between my knees. I only put the rifle in the vice to cut the last two or three threads when the die was starting to get hard to turn. I did have a friend help me make sure the die was on square first though.

Just make sure you use lots of oil or cutting fluid and take your time. Remember the threads on those are left handed.

[LorDiego01]

You might want to try the more specific AK forums out there.

Try specifically a new forum called www.militaryfirearm.com this is run by the people who ran the now defunct www.cetmerifles.com (forum was hacked to death) and I swear the folk there know the most obscure stuff about firearms that you could ever need.

And dont forget to update this thread when you do find the information.

[JayBell]

avoid florida gunworks, not a trustworthy seller.
i ordered from them once, they charged me immediately, I waited 2 moths, fought with them, they never shipped, claimed they did, and I had to do a chargeback.

report on other forums are similar, use caution.

[PA Rifleman]

My question to the gunsmith gods is, is this something that can be done with a Moderate work bench with a good solid vice to hold everything in place?

Taking advice from mere mortals? I'd check to ascertain whether your gun is suitable for this type of modification first.

First, using either a micrometer or dial caliper, make sure the muzzle actually measures 14mm (0.550”) in diameter. If not, you’ll need a solution to get it up to that size, or some type of ready-made adapter. SAR-1’s appear to be 14mm already, can anyone with a WASR post their muzzle diameter?

Also, have a close look at your front sight base. Is the détente plunger bore drilled out? Details to follow…

If you do have a 14mm muzzle, run the tap into the brake to “chase” the threads. Be sure to do this FIRST. Use oil and treat this just like cutting new threads.

Note that the die is likely split. This allows you to set the clearance of the threads. Obviously, a finer clearance provides a better seal but also jams easier. On your first cut, open the die as far as it will go. Cut the threads and see if the muzzle device threads on. Don’t worry if it won't screw on, or it's very tight. Reduce the die inner diameter a small amount and cut the threads down a little more, and recheck muzzle brake fit. If you chased the threads (above), it should screw on smoothly and have very positive alignment by the second or third thread.


The idea here is to remove metal down to the final size in small steps. If you remove too much, you'll have a tougher time putting it back on. Also note that if you removed metal chasing the brake threads, that will increase the clearance. That's why we do that *first*.

Also don't turn the die more than a half or a full turn before clearing the chips. If the chip curl makes it around inside the die, it could potentially damage the newly-cut barrel threads. Use oil. Lots of oil. I use CLP as sort a universal oil, but cutting oil is best.

(ref: post title) Also note that the SKS is also 0.551” at the muzzle but -isn’t- usually threaded.

Use the bore adapter to ensure coaxial & radial alignment. On one side of the die, it should be marked “start from this side”. This side faces the barrel.

SIDEBAR-vise mods 101: better vises have removable jaws. You can either wrap the barrel in leather, or make a replacement set of jaws from wood, aluminum or brass (or any other non-marring material) to clamp the barrel. I used to make half-round jaws from aluminum & shim with paper to clamp antenna masts & parts in my old SIGINT days. It was both non-marring and non-collapsing, too.

Is alignment down to .001 required?

Re: brake alignment requirement: this is determined by the relationship between the brake’s aperture (opening) size and the rifling groove diameter. Obviously a larger aperture is less critical alignment-wise.

If you’re concerned about brake alignment, put a tight-fitting rod or dowel in the muzzle end of the barrel. Add one layer of standard 20LB paper (about 0.005” thick) on the dowel right where it juts out from the bore. Add two layers for deeper rifling. If the brake doesn’t touch the paper, it probably won’t contact the bullet.

Important: you’ll need some method for positively locking the brake into angular alignment. The original setup was a spring-loaded detent plunger that snapped into a half-round divot on the brake. You’ll need to restore this functionality, which now means checking to make sure the détente bore is drilled out on your front sight. If not, you’ll need to either drill all this out or replace the front sight base (“FSB” in AK builder jargon).

Nice metric thread chart:
http://www.newmantools.com/tech/threadmf.htm

Misc reference:
http://www.gunaccessories.com/AK47-MAK90/SpareParts.asp
http://www.aa-ok.com/AK_Spare_Parts/Spare_Parts.htm
http://www.k-var.com/shop/
http://www.akcollectors.com/
http://www.globaltrades.com/usmadeparts.html
http://www.impactglobalarms.com/Sales/
http://www.krebscustom.com/CustomParts.html
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...K+MUZZLE+BRAKE

[DrakinClaw]

Taking advice from mere mortals? I'd check to ascertain whether your gun is suitable for this type of modification first.

First, using either a micrometer or dial caliper, make sure the muzzle actually measures 14mm (0.550”) in diameter. If not, you’ll need a solution to get it up to that size, or some type of ready-made adapter. SAR-1’s appear to be 14mm already, can anyone with a WASR post their muzzle diameter?

Also, have a close look at your front sight base. Is the détente plunger bore drilled out? Details to follow…

If you do have a 14mm muzzle, run the tap into the brake to “chase” the threads. Be sure to do this FIRST. Use oil and treat this just like cutting new threads.

Note that the die is likely split. This allows you to set the clearance of the threads. Obviously, a finer clearance provides a better seal but also jams easier. On your first cut, open the die as far as it will go. Cut the threads and see if the muzzle device threads on. Don’t worry if it won't screw on, or it's very tight. Reduce the die inner diameter a small amount and cut the threads down a little more, and recheck muzzle brake fit. If you chased the threads (above), it should screw on smoothly and have very positive alignment by the second or third thread.


The idea here is to remove metal down to the final size in small steps. If you remove too much, you'll have a tougher time putting it back on. Also note that if you removed metal chasing the brake threads, that will increase the clearance. That's why we do that *first*.

Also don't turn the die more than a half or a full turn before clearing the chips. If the chip curl makes it around inside the die, it could potentially damage the newly-cut barrel threads. Use oil. Lots of oil. I use CLP as sort a universal oil, but cutting oil is best.

(ref: post title) Also note that the SKS is also 0.551” at the muzzle but -isn’t- usually threaded.

Use the bore adapter to ensure coaxial & radial alignment. On one side of the die, it should be marked “start from this side”. This side faces the barrel.

SIDEBAR-vise mods 101: better vises have removable jaws. You can either wrap the barrel in leather, or make a replacement set of jaws from wood, aluminum or brass (or any other non-marring material) to clamp the barrel. I used to make half-round jaws from aluminum & shim with paper to clamp antenna masts & parts in my old SIGINT days. It was both non-marring and non-collapsing, too.



Re: brake alignment requirement: this is determined by the relationship between the brake’s aperture (opening) size and the rifling groove diameter. Obviously a larger aperture is less critical alignment-wise.

If you’re concerned about brake alignment, put a tight-fitting rod or dowel in the muzzle end of the barrel. Add one layer of standard 20LB paper (about 0.005” thick) on the dowel right where it juts out from the bore. Add two layers for deeper rifling. If the brake doesn’t touch the paper, it probably won’t contact the bullet.

Important: you’ll need some method for positively locking the brake into angular alignment. The original setup was a spring-loaded detent plunger that snapped into a half-round divot on the brake. You’ll need to restore this functionality, which now means checking to make sure the détente bore is drilled out on your front sight. If not, you’ll need to either drill all this out or replace the front sight base (“FSB” in AK builder jargon).

Nice metric thread chart:
http://www.newmantools.com/tech/threadmf.htm

Misc reference:
http://www.gunaccessories.com/AK47-MAK90/SpareParts.asp
http://www.aa-ok.com/AK_Spare_Parts/Spare_Parts.htm
http://www.k-var.com/shop/
http://www.akcollectors.com/
http://www.globaltrades.com/usmadeparts.html
http://www.impactglobalarms.com/Sales/
http://www.krebscustom.com/CustomParts.html
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...K+MUZZLE+BRAKE

WOW! Overload of info! Thanx so much for the help! I'm actually confident now i can get it done! Thanx!
Drakin

[Karys]

Whoa! After reading PA Rifleman's post, it sounds like I got lucky when I did mine.

At least now I know better.

Thanks for the info!

[djturnz]

Karys,

How did you secure yours on the threads? Set screw?

I don't remember what your brake looks like.