Pennsylvania Firearm Owners Association
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  1. #1
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    Default Need a AR guru for a Trigger issue

    I decided to build my own AR with a PSA upper, lpk, stock & buffer and a EP Armory 80% lower. After getting everything together and finally having time to check it out, I come to find out that there's hardly any trigger pull. I've function checked the rifle and it does everything it's supposed to including chambering a round and ejecting (I haven't shot it but I put a live round in the throat, sent the bolt home & then racked the charging handle to eject it. The safety functions as it should without binding so it works but should I be concerned? It's probably a 6-7 pound trigger pull but I don't know if I should replace the lower or am I ok? If anyone is in the Carbondale/Scranton area and wants to check it hands on, I'm up for it. I work in Wilkes-Barre at the Sears Auto so that's another option as well

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Need a AR guru for a Trigger issue

    According to the actual armorer's Manuel for the M4/M16A2 the standard trigger pull weight specs are anywhere from 5.5 to 8.5lbs. Sounds like your right where you should be in the trigger pull dept. Three of my AR's have a 6-6.5lb pull the 4th has a two stage trigger with a 4.5lb pull.
    Last edited by Hodgie; October 20th, 2016 at 11:45 PM.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Need a AR guru for a Trigger issue

    Trigger pull guage is very helpful at determining pull weight. 6lb is not none. What are you really trying to say? It sounds like everything is ok.

  4. #4
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    Ford City, PA, Pennsylvania
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    Default Re: Need a AR guru for a Trigger issue

    There is hardly any trigger pull and its at 6 pounds?

    That's like saying "my car has a flat tire.... It only holds 36 psi"

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Need a AR guru for a Trigger issue

    I don't mean the weight of the pull, I guess I should have proofread it first but it's the length of pull. I just went back and read my first post & I see that I wasn't as descriptive as I thought. 6 lbs or so is fine for weight but it's got a 1/4" throw and it has no take up, it's a stiff trigger that goes straight to a solid break. Most of the triggers I've used have a lot of take up before you get to that point. This is my first AR so it might just be me but it seems odd. I just don't want to run into any problems because of this.

    Currently the only only other trigger here is a Ruger Blackhawk air rifle and it has what I would consider a standard or normal trigger. There's some take up then the break and a touch of over travel. I could just be used to the "wrong" kinds of triggers but I want to be sure

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Need a AR guru for a Trigger issue

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeybonez28 View Post
    I don't mean the weight of the pull, I guess I should have proofread it first but it's the length of pull. I just went back and read my first post & I see that I wasn't as descriptive as I thought. 6 lbs or so is fine for weight but it's got a 1/4" throw and it has no take up, it's a stiff trigger that goes straight to a solid break. Most of the triggers I've used have a lot of take up before you get to that point. This is my first AR so it might just be me but it seems odd. I just don't want to run into any problems because of this.

    Currently the only only other trigger here is a Ruger Blackhawk air rifle and it has what I would consider a standard or normal trigger. There's some take up then the break and a touch of over travel. I could just be used to the "wrong" kinds of triggers but I want to be sure

    Sounds like its a single stage trigger (normal operation). Two stage triggers usually have a short 2.5lb take up for the first stage and then another 2lb second stage where it breaks. Triggers take time to break in (smooth out). Give it some time before you decide to swap it out for something else.
    Toujours prêt

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Need a AR guru for a Trigger issue

    In my experience EP lowers are complete and utter dogshit, I have one here that is out of spec and basically unusable. If the trigger pin location is off you will end up having a funky or malfunctioning trigger.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Need a AR guru for a Trigger issue

    For an 80% (ESPECIALLY on polymer), I would recommend the KNS non-rotating trigger pins for 2 reasons.


    1. On an aluminum receiver, the manufacturer drills out the hammer/trigger pin holes BEFORE anodizing the lower. On an 80%, you're drilling AFTER the anodizing has been done and exposing the softer aluminum. Hard steel pins on soft aluminum - I'm sure you can guess which surface will wear more quickly. A polymer lower is not going to be any different. You have the same hard steel pins riding on an even softer material.
    2. The KNS pins will keep the pins spaced correctly. Even if one hole does wear slightly, the pins won't walk away from (or toward) each other. It's not difficult to imagine what would happen to the sear engagement if your hammer pin walked away from the trigger pin.
    Soap Box - Worn out : Ballot Box - Broken : Jury Box - Pending : Ammunition Box - Unknown

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Need a AR guru for a Trigger issue

    Quote Originally Posted by dkf View Post
    In my experience EP lowers are complete and utter dogshit, I have one here that is out of spec and basically unusable. If the trigger pin location is off you will end up having a funky or malfunctioning trigger.
    I'm regretting my choice as well. The upper required a good whack to get it in but for right now it's the only lower I have & thanks to the election being around the corner, prices on stripped & 80% lowers have gone up except for Anderson, their prices are about the same but out of stock everywhere. Once I get a little cash, I'm going to try and get an aluminum 80% or a stripped lower even though the only ones I've seen in stock or the ATI polymers and then you add a transfer fee and it's about the same cost as a Spike's lower. I definitely want to get another lower before a final decision is made in November but I need cash!!

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Need a AR guru for a Trigger issue

    Quote Originally Posted by daschnoz View Post
    For an 80% (ESPECIALLY on polymer), I would recommend the KNS non-rotating trigger pins for 2 reasons.


    1. On an aluminum receiver, the manufacturer drills out the hammer/trigger pin holes BEFORE anodizing the lower. On an 80%, you're drilling AFTER the anodizing has been done and exposing the softer aluminum. Hard steel pins on soft aluminum - I'm sure you can guess which surface will wear more quickly. A polymer lower is not going to be any different. You have the same hard steel pins riding on an even softer material.
    2. The KNS pins will keep the pins spaced correctly. Even if one hole does wear slightly, the pins won't walk away from (or toward) each other. It's not difficult to imagine what would happen to the sear engagement if your hammer pin walked away from the trigger pin.
    I plan on getting the KNS but bills come first & I wasn't anticipating as much of a pay cut as I took

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