Long(ish) Range Rifle Setup, need help!

**ianb1116** · May 7th, 2016, 02:37 PM

So I recently bought a Remington 700 Long Range in .30-06 to both serve as a fun long range (up to 1k yards) plinker and a good hunting gun.

Before you tell me that a 6mm cartridge of some sort or .300WM would be better,I chose .30-06 because I was already invested in the caliber, it's capable as any of the rest out to 1k, and it's a great deer round.

So, I also recently bought a Vortex Viper 6.5-20x44. 30mm tube.

Now, I need help picking rings and possibly a DBM bottom metal. What would work in a long action setup for .30-06? What rings would allow the objective bell to clear the barrel assuming the use of a butler creek or a 4" sun shade.

I've also bought a weaver 1 piece base.

Thanks in advance!

**NathanB** · May 7th, 2016, 02:44 PM

youre going to need more info regarding your rings. A lot of info to consider but your objective lens base etc will all factor in.

**ianb1116** · May 7th, 2016, 04:23 PM

Originally Posted by NathanB

youre going to need more info regarding your rings. A lot of info to consider but your objective lens base etc will all factor in.

Objective lens outer diameter measures 2.03". The barrel is a heavy contour. Scope has a 30mm tube. Weaver base is just a standard rail.

I'm thinking I'm going to need a medium set of rings but I'm not sure about brand. I don't want to spend $140 on a set of Nightforce rings though...somewhere where there's a happy medium (pun intended).

**animalmother85** · May 7th, 2016, 06:52 PM

What series of the 700 did you get? Is it like Paw's hunting rifle with a thin barrel? What's the stock like. Xmark trigger?

You can shoot far with pencil thin barrels, it just gets dumb after a prolonged string.

Bottom metal with detachable magazines are the last thing I add to my long range rigs. Don't put the derp-cart in front of the horse.

Here's my advice;
See what the rifle is capable with minimal human error - shoot it off of a solid support, like a lead sled and make sure it's locked in on every shot. Then make sure that you can shoot as good in the prone with a bean bag and a bi-pod as well as a ruck sack. If you can't get there, figure out why. Does your stock suck? Is the length of pull too short or too long? Can you not get the proper cheek weld to the stock?

As far as rings go, you want the rings that will put the scope as low to the reciever and/or barrel - depending on objective length size - as possible, while still being able to see through the scope without having to contort your head in a non-natural manner. Going too low is usually an AR thing, not a bolt gun thing. Usually people buy rings that are too low and the scope won't mount. I think I paid something like $160 for my Badger Ordnance rings about 7 or 8 years ago. However, I can throw my rifle down a very tall flight of stairs. You pay for what you get. Look into EGW rings. They come in at a pretty good price point.

Next question;
Does your optic have enough adjustment to reach to 1000 yards with the current base that you have or do you need to get a base with an offset/cant?

Lastly, just because a specific cartridge can go to a certain range, it doesn't mean that your and/or your rifle can, too. That's not a rip on you, after all, I have no idea what your capabilities are, but there is no such animal as a 'budget built precision rifles' with any sort of consistency, unless of course, you are building it yourself.

How are you with reading the wind?

**ianb1116** · May 7th, 2016, 10:38 PM

Originally Posted by animalmother85

What series of the 700 did you get? Is it like Paw's hunting rifle with a thin barrel? What's the stock like. Xmark trigger?

You can shoot far with pencil thin barrels, it just gets dumb after a prolonged string.

Bottom metal with detachable magazines are the last thing I add to my long range rigs. Don't put the derp-cart in front of the horse.

Here's my advice;
See what the rifle is capable with minimal human error - shoot it off of a solid support, like a lead sled and make sure it's locked in on every shot. Then make sure that you can shoot as good in the prone with a bean bag and a bi-pod as well as a ruck sack. If you can't get there, figure out why. Does your stock suck? Is the length of pull too short or too long? Can you not get the proper cheek weld to the stock?

As far as rings go, you want the rings that will put the scope as low to the reciever and/or barrel - depending on objective length size - as possible, while still being able to see through the scope without having to contort your head in a non-natural manner. Going too low is usually an AR thing, not a bolt gun thing. Usually people buy rings that are too low and the scope won't mount. I think I paid something like $160 for my Badger Ordnance rings about 7 or 8 years ago. However, I can throw my rifle down a very tall flight of stairs. You pay for what you get. Look into EGW rings. They come in at a pretty good price point.

Next question;
Does your optic have enough adjustment to reach to 1000 yards with the current base that you have or do you need to get a base with an offset/cant?

Lastly, just because a specific cartridge can go to a certain range, it doesn't mean that your and/or your rifle can, too. That's not a rip on you, after all, I have no idea what your capabilities are, but there is no such animal as a 'budget built precision rifles' with any sort of consistency, unless of course, you are building it yourself.

How are you with reading the wind?

The model is the Remington 700 SPS Long Range in .30-06. Comes stock with a Bell and Carlson M40 stock. Also a heavy profile barrel for longer strings of fire. It does unfortunately come with the Xmark trigger. Thinking Timney 510 in this department.

I do plan on gauging what the rifle can do prior to investing any more money. The scope does have the capability to go out to 1k. The scope has +/-65 MOA adjustment in 1/4 MOA increments.

Can I consistently go out to 1k? HELL NO. Can I learn to? Probably, yeah.

I've used EGW parts in my 1911 and know them to be GTG. Good recommendation.

Also, are Harris bipods really all that they're cracked up to be?

**animalmother85** · May 7th, 2016, 10:55 PM

Originally Posted by ianb1116

The model is the Remington 700 SPS Long Range in .30-06. Comes stock with a Bell and Carlson M40 stock. Also a heavy profile barrel for longer strings of fire. It does unfortunately come with the Xmark trigger. Thinking Timney 510 in this department.

I do plan on gauging what the rifle can do prior to investing any more money. The scope does have the capability to go out to 1k. The scope has +/-65 MOA adjustment in 1/4 MOA increments.

Can I consistently go out to 1k? HELL NO. Can I learn to? Probably, yeah.

I've used EGW parts in my 1911 and know them to be GTG. Good recommendation.

Also, are Harris bipods really all that they're cracked up to be?

X-Mark isn't too bad. Check out the Huber two-stage triggers. I have one on my Badger build. It's pretty slick.

...you went with an MOA scope. Bummer. It'll work, though.

I have a harris or two. They are fast. I have an atlas V8, too. it's not as quick and if it were to get banged up like a harris, I'd probably cringe.

Where was your rifle manufactured? New York or Alabama?

**ianb1116** · May 8th, 2016, 12:31 AM

The reticle is actually Mil Dot, adjustments are MOA? Odd, I know, but makes math easier.

And don't know yet about place of manufacture. Picking it up tomorrow. Is one better than the other?

**SteveWag** · May 8th, 2016, 12:50 AM

I would not have gone with a Weaver Rail but since you did, I would suggest Burris Xtreme Tactical. You will need to lap almost ant ring-set. They should cost between $55-80. If you need some “tilt”, I would go with Burris XTR Signature with self aligning and delta elevation inserts. Sight in with some $20 rings at 100 yards and see how much elevation is available UP from the 100 yard zero to the upper limit. Anything DOWN from the 100 yard zero to the end of the dial will be wasted. Maybe 2-3 MOA max below, no more. I used to introduce new shooters to 600 and 1000 yards. We never ran out of elevation at 600 yards but did many times at 1000 (all kinds of rifles). Check the manufacturers site for ring heights but the medium Xtreme should be fine (height is 1.1 in to the centerline0.

I would not shoot from a Bi-Pod, at least not at first. Use a rest or bags. Front and rear. I am assuming shooting prone, not from a bench. NRA HiPower with a sling is fine.

1000 yards is best done loaded singly, not from the magazine. With a factory chambered rifle you may need to load longer, AOL, than will fit in a (the) magazine.

I also assume handloading. Invest in a $120 chrony and some primer pocket and hole uniformers, inside and out. The 30-06 is very sensitive to primer uniformity. With a factory chamber there is no need for any neck-turning. If you have a 1-in-10 twist the Serria 175 grain Matchking is a good choice, but I have seen as heavy as 220 grains used. Neck size only or set your die up so as to NOT set the shoulder back. Get 2-300 cases, sort by weight, keep best 150 and use the rest for hunting.

Steve

**ianb1116** · May 8th, 2016, 10:01 AM

Great info Steve, thank you.

Why would you not have gone with the weaver rail? Looked like a solid rail per reviews?

I've got the chrony and do already work the primer pockets on everything but plinking rounds. The barrel is indeed 1:10 so your suggestion will be one of the first I try.

Thanks again!