Pennsylvania Firearm Owners Association
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  1. #1
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    Default 1952 870 Wingmaster - Should I have it blued?

    Last year my wife's uncle gave me his dad's 1952 870 Wingmaster. From the barrel markings (KYY, and a single X near the receiver), I have determined that it was made in May, 1952, and that it is a heavy frame model.

    He handed it to me in a soft case that had been hung up in his barn. For decades, apparently. The outside of the case was covered with mildew and when we opened the case the shotgun was covered with surface rust. I took it home and took it apart while following along with a youtube video. I applied some light weapon oil and used a brush to remove all of the surface rust I could see on the receiver and the barrel. There were a couple of heavier rust spots that I removed with a green abrasive pad. The trigger assembly looks pretty good. The bluing on that portion of the shotgun seems fine. However, most of the bluing is gone from the rest of the shotgun. There is very shallow pitting all over the place.

    I have fired the shotgun with both small game loads and slugs and it functioned flawlessly.

    My goal is to pass this firearm down to my daughter and I would like some advice as to whether or not I should have it re-blued. I have not seen any more rust on the gun and the time and energy (or dollars) expended may not be worth the trouble.

    Any thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: 1952 870 Wingmaster - Should I have it blued?

    Quote Originally Posted by fastsrfr View Post
    Last year my wife's uncle gave me his dad's 1952 870 Wingmaster. From the barrel markings (KYY, and a single X near the receiver), I have determined that it was made in May, 1952, and that it is a heavy frame model.

    He handed it to me in a soft case that had been hung up in his barn. For decades, apparently. The outside of the case was covered with mildew and when we opened the case the shotgun was covered with surface rust. I took it home and took it apart while following along with a youtube video. I applied some light weapon oil and used a brush to remove all of the surface rust I could see on the receiver and the barrel. There were a couple of heavier rust spots that I removed with a green abrasive pad. The trigger assembly looks pretty good. The bluing on that portion of the shotgun seems fine. However, most of the bluing is gone from the rest of the shotgun. There is very shallow pitting all over the place.

    I have fired the shotgun with both small game loads and slugs and it functioned flawlessly.

    My goal is to pass this firearm down to my daughter and I would like some advice as to whether or not I should have it re-blued. I have not seen any more rust on the gun and the time and energy (or dollars) expended may not be worth the trouble.

    Any thoughts?
    Wife's uncle's father, so your wife's great uncle, your daughters great great uncle. THAT is some kind of legacy.

    If this was a bargain gun shop find, then it would be a project gun and I would say restore it. But it is not. It is an heirloom. Every mark on that gun represents a family history of hunting or sport shooting. Restoring it would wipe out the record of that legacy.

    Rather than restore, I suggest you work to stabilize it. Surface rust can easily be removed and further damage halted. Doing the research can be fun. Remove the rust, keep it well oiled and dry and then it will remain a piece of family history, something you can look at, feel the defects and ding, the wear and tear, and know where it came from. Restore it and you have a pretty looking old shotgun.

    Best luck with your endeavors

  3. #3
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    Default Re: 1952 870 Wingmaster - Should I have it blued?

    I for one have no problem with wiping down the steel with a rag soaked in Brownells oxpho blue. The gun lost its finish from neglect it seems, so why not give it some love? Won't hide scratches but will return a blued appearance.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: 1952 870 Wingmaster - Should I have it blued?

    Quote Originally Posted by Remington788 View Post
    Wife's uncle's father, so your wife's great uncle, your daughters great great uncle. THAT is some kind of legacy.

    If this was a bargain gun shop find, then it would be a project gun and I would say restore it. But it is not. It is an heirloom. Every mark on that gun represents a family history of hunting or sport shooting. Restoring it would wipe out the record of that legacy.

    Rather than restore, I suggest you work to stabilize it. Surface rust can easily be removed and further damage halted. Doing the research can be fun. Remove the rust, keep it well oiled and dry and then it will remain a piece of family history, something you can look at, feel the defects and ding, the wear and tear, and know where it came from. Restore it and you have a pretty looking old shotgun.

    Best luck with your endeavors
    Guess I have some thinking to do. I will definitely research stabilizing the metal. She doesn't need it to hunt with, but I'd like to keep it around for a good long while. Then, if she wants to go a bit further, we might try the Brownell's product. I watched a video about it and it seems very easy to use. If we go that route I will involve her in the process.

    Also, I believe that the father of my wife's uncle is my daughter's great-grandfather. I hate trying to keep these relations straight.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: 1952 870 Wingmaster - Should I have it blued?

    Personally I don't think that re-bluing will "erase the memories" of the gun. I think if the finish today was a worn bluing with just a little finish remaining, and plenty of scratches and wear, I would definitely leave the character intact. Since it was neglected and then scrubbed raw, it's really up to you. Well, it is up to you regardless, since it is your gun!

  6. #6
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    Default Re: 1952 870 Wingmaster - Should I have it blued?

    I don't quite get the sentimentality attached to a gun that the owners cared so little about.

    Take some pictures of the gun in it's present condition.

    Brownell's and midway have videos on hand polishing, no Dremel, no buffing wheels, an 870 is pretty easy. After you file out the pitting and polish it, send it out to be professionally hot blued. Don't cold blue it.

    Your efforts to refurbish the old gun for your daughter is where the true sentimental value will lie.

    Just my $0.02, YMMV

  7. #7
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    Default Re: 1952 870 Wingmaster - Should I have it blued?

    Unless you're gonna polish out pits , or at least have it glass-beaded , leave it as is. But a half-ass polish job looks like crap , and a frst class polish job takes time and/or money to do right.

    Glass-bead and blue , or parkerize , it will look decent.
    I don't speak English , I talk American!

  8. #8
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    Default Re: 1952 870 Wingmaster - Should I have it blued?

    Also, if you get to the point that you decide to just get it refinished, you could have it Cerakoted and that would last your and your daughters lifetimes (as long as the person doing the Cerakoting does it correctly). I've done this on several customers old beat up shotguns and they use them heavily and after 5-6 years of use they still look great.
    Ron USAF Ret E-8 FFL01/SOT3 NRA Benefactor Member

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