powder clings

**joeyj** · June 25th, 2015, 02:36 PM

I pour my powder into a ceramic cup and use a dipper. What is a good way to keep the powder from sticking to the sides of everything. Somebody said dryer sheets, I assume he meant used ones. Any suggestions.

**daschnoz** · June 25th, 2015, 02:54 PM

Yup, dryer sheets - NOT used ones.

**Twoboxer** · June 25th, 2015, 08:49 PM

When I needed a large funnel to pour powder into a powder measure tube, I cut the bottom off a 2 liter soda bottle, turned it upside down, and voila! Had a funnel that no powder ever sticks to.

If I had saved the bottom, it would have made a great replacement for your ceramic dish

Seriously, dryer sheets may work, may work for a while . . . but the right clear plastic soda bottle bottom seems to remain cling-free forever.

ETA: Back to the "funnel" . . . after removing the bottom and turning it upside-down . . . there was still the problem that if I poured too fast, I could overshoot the other side of the funnel. So I cut out a u-shaped section to rest the powder jug neck in while pouring. The powder now hits the other side of the funnel, and never over-shoots it.

**Iron Sights** · June 25th, 2015, 09:07 PM

I also use the top of a 16 oz. plastic soda bottle. In the old days when a record album was on vinyl, they used to make a static gun to reduce the pops and hisses. I still have one and occasionally use it during reloading with the old classics playing in the background.

**joeyj** · June 26th, 2015, 01:55 PM

Thanks fellas, i like the old soda bottle idea. I know frabic softners have wax in them, and I just didn't see how that was a solution.

**cephas** · June 26th, 2015, 05:09 PM

Old school. Wash in hot soapy water and let air dry. Leaves a slick surface that lasts awhile. Routinely wash primer tubes this way.

**noylj** · June 29th, 2015, 10:26 PM

>Old school. Wash in hot soapy water and let air dry
Critical--don't rinse or wipe off before air drying.
Works for me. Standard lab practice. The anti-static wipes are not much different from the soapy water residue (simply stearic acid (as in some/most soaps) in most cases—don't know about any wax in the anti-cling formulations, though stearic acid feels waxy).
Also, a graphite coating is long lasting and does the job. I use a Frankford Arsenal graphite spray made for bullet molds.
I know this sounds stupid, but what is the problem? In most cases, the cling does not affect the charge the dipper picks up or throws (and, if you trickling and weighing, it is even less of a problem) and powder clinging to the bowl is a simple nuisance and is brushed out. If there isn't a problem, don't stress about it.
I have washed all my Lee dippers with soapy water. Dippers I make from cases don't have a cling problem.