Gun Cabinet Door Organizers

**PA1936MN** · February 16th, 2015, 04:17 PM

I'm in search for a gun cabinet organizer for my Stack on double door model gun cabinet.

1. I know Stack on has their on version of an organizer. Although a contender it's not exactly what I'm looking for. Price point is great though.

2. I found WildeBuiltTactical, but at $.15 per square inch it's more then what I would like to spend.

They tell you to measure your door. 49"x14". Then to times those two numbers which equals 686 square inches. That gets you around $102 for a single door organizer. Which IMO is too much.

However I want the capabilities of the MOLLE system.

Does anyone have any recommendations on where to purchase from? Or other ideas period?

Thanks

**JoshIronshaft** · February 16th, 2015, 05:33 PM

I think emptymag has a thread where he attached a grid type organizer to his door then zip-tied holsters and such to it.

Found it: http://forum.pafoa.org/general-2/208...guns-more.html

**moshan** · February 16th, 2015, 05:35 PM

Originally Posted by PA1936MN

I'm in search for a gun cabinet organizer for my Stack on double door model gun cabinet.

2. I found WildeBuiltTactical, but at $.15 per square inch it's more then what I would like to spend.

They tell you to measure your door. 49"x14". Then to times those two numbers which equals 686 square inches. That gets you around $102 for a single door organizer. Which IMO is too much.

However I want the capabilities of the MOLLE system.

WILDE BUILT TACTICALMOLLE Safe Organization Panels are serious quality stuff...Not cheap, but you only buy it once. I did have them add a full Velcro backing to mine rather than the top bottom and middle strips on their standard build. That way the panel does not pull away from the door under the weight of full magazines. The added bonus is I didn’t even need to use the preinstalled grommet to screw the panel into the door. The full Velcro backer is strong enough to hold the panel against the carpet inside the door even when fully loaded. I also had them add an interior foam core to the panel to make it stiffer and give it the “plate carrier” look .

With the added Velcro and foam core backing, each 18”x50” panel came around $170.

If you want a cheaper alternative, could you pick up some low end plate carriers and cut them in half (front and back)? I always see inexpensive plate carriers covered in Molle at gun shows. Might keep the price under $30 to $40 for you and still get the job done......

**PA1936MN** · February 16th, 2015, 05:50 PM

I think I'm SOL on this. Unless I really wanted to put some money into it. As the doors are hollow and don't have any kind of backing on them. You can see the locking mechanism and all. I'm talking full length of the door.

I feel Id have to fill the doors with foam so there's some sort of backing material. Then possibly had some type of thin carpet on top of that with adhesive backing to apply it. Then I could add the MOLLE organization system to it.

Pipe dreams I guess.

**moshan** · February 16th, 2015, 05:52 PM

Found it....

Originally Posted by Emptymag

I wanted to make use of the small amount of unused space on the door of a Stack 0n 14-gun locking gun cabinet.....

http://forum.pafoa.org/general-2/208...guns-more.html.

**PA1936MN** · February 16th, 2015, 06:03 PM

It's a good solution just not what I had in my mind. I guess that's what you get when you buy a gun cabinet and not a safe. Oh well I think about it.

**sprrdhawk44** · February 16th, 2015, 06:18 PM

Make sure you have a good dehumidifier in there and a good coat of oil on your irons if you're going to be storing them in pouches. That's an easy way to end up with rust.

**PA1936MN** · February 16th, 2015, 06:42 PM

I think what I'm going to try and do is put a piece of 1/2" foam board between the right side of the door & reinforcing bar. Which in turn should be flush with the reinforcing bar & right side of the door.

I'll follow that up with some thin adhesive backed carpet. That will have more contact points then just on the reinforcing bar and top and bottom side of the door.

Then I should be able to use a regular MOLLE mounting system.

It's more then I want to spend but in the end it's what I want.