Gas block STUCK ON BARREL. >:(

[Gunsnwater]

Kroil is a joke. I have a can. Supposed to creep under lead to remove from bore. Total bull crap. Had to use Lewis lead remover. That worked. If heat doesn't get that block off you have to cut it. You could try a dremel cut off wheel and slice it length wise. Lots of wheels and hard not to cut barrel. You could use a grinder and take it down close to barrel in two places opposite each other. When both are very thin lock one side in vise and crack other side off with hammer. As a side note sarco has a melonite barrel for $125 and free shipping over $50 this week end.

[McSull]

Are you absolutely positive you removed the set screw?

This question has been asked more than once but, I don't believe I've seen an answer yet.

[early1900s]

This question has been asked more than once but, I don't believe I've seen an answer yet.

I did answer it already, and yes, I removed all 3 set screws. That was the first thing I did.

[early1900s]

The green loctite I was referring to is: http://www.henkelna.com/product-sear...=8797928521729
Good for 4,000 PSI shear strength. It's the stuff you use for: "It ain't coming apart, ever" applications. Not for the faint of heart assemblers. To be used on gun parts that you are really certain you are NEVER going to pull apart ever. If you do, be ready for some serious "do I really want to do this" work taking it apart.

Years ago, when silver soldering flash hiders on was okay, I tried this stuff instead of silver solder. I played hell removing the hider years later. Found out that silver solder is easier to remove than Loctite 680. It's not ATF approved for attaching parts to make your barrel longer, but it should be! Took repeated torch heatings and metal strap wrench (and one ruined XM177 style flash hider) to finally get things done right.

Silver soldering flash hiders isn't OK? I'm afraid you may be mistaken.

[Bang]

Three set screws? That when tightened cratered the barrel in three places?
Aha!

Also...blue Loctite in a large surface area will not be the friendly Loctite like when applied to a few threads. Still, heat should do the job.

Have you tried laying the gas block on an anvil, and hammering the opposite part....the barrel will act as a mandrel and the block's ID will expand.

[Tacgunner]

Back in the day....there was confusion over silver solder VS pin & weld. Nowadays using the 1200 degree silver solder is okay. Welding and blind pinning is also approved by the ATF. Back in the '80s you could do all sorts of builds, and the laws were not very clear about what was legit. My original post was based on my experiences with silver soldered hiders back in the murky past when you could still build "fun guns" (civilian build class 3). Those were fun times.

But yes, the high temp silver solder is good to go nowadays for muzzle devices.

[abner13]

Take it to a good machinist , have him chuck it in a lathe and turn the remainder of the block off down to about .010 from the barrel. The rest can be peeled off.

[Bang]

And it suddenly jumps loose against the tool? Sounds like a good way to damage a lathe and get injured.

[McSull]

Any progress to report?

[early1900s]

Any progress to report?

No, not yet. I'll update the thread when I do. Its kind of on the backburner right now.