Long range shooting

[*Klutch*]

So I've been interested in this for some time but havent really ventured into it. I've taken some shots out to 200yds with ease but haven't really gone much past that but to maybe 250. I have a savage 16 in 243 with a Burris 3.5x14 scope on it that's just itching to go out far. I know it's not an ideal set up but it's what I selected without breaking the bank and without a need for better until my skill develops more. I'm not a turn the turrets kind of shooter and can easily hit what I'm aiming at with a holdover at the distances I've shot at but holdover don't count to well at 4,5 and 600 yds.
What can some of you long range guys tell a novice to help me get started.
I do reload and have loaded 243 for some time so I have some loads but open to hear some of your ideas for that too.
Let me know whatcha know...

[Stooperzero]

your load is the biggest thing.
Crap like case run-out or different bullet designs makes a huge difference.


are you shooting for accuracy/groups or MOBG??

[Rosco the Iroc]

Let me know whatcha know...

Back at you.
Whats the question? You don't want to adjust the scope and just want to wing it. You can't load to yard line w/o setting sights.

[Stooperzero]

with hold over at the minimum you need mil dots or something similar.

[*Klutch*]

your load is the biggest thing.
Crap like case run-out or different bullet designs makes a huge difference.


are you shooting for accuracy/groups or MOBG??

I would like some accuracy for sure and I think groups go along with accuracy. I don't know what MOBG is.

Back at you.
Whats the question? You don't want to adjust the scope and just want to wing it. You can't load to yard line w/o setting sights.

No I want to learn how to shoot long range.

with hold over at the minimum you need mil dots or something similar.

Mil dots I have and I think hold over is prolly good for 300yds at max and that's prolly too far but there has to be some adjustments for wind drift and what not. I know 5-600 isn't that far but with a 243 I think the adjustments might be more previlant than not

[SteveD]

I shoot a .243, and 600 yards is not difficult to obtain. Bullet BC plays a lot in how far you can go, along with how much scope adjustment you have. I typically dial for elevation and hold for wind. I'm pushing a Hornady 87 gr. VMAX at 3150 fps out of a Savage.

[harold63]

but holdover don't count to well at 4,5 and 600 yds.

Phew. This is a subject within a subject within a subject. You are correct about hold over at 600 yds...it is hard to count 60" from a 100 yd 0. If I were you, I'd get a hold of some long range shooting info. There's ton's of info out there. In the mean time, a couple things you can do to help you right off the bat is to be sure your scope works right. The scope you have will do the job, but are the turrets accurate when they are adjusted? When you get your 0, turn the turrets 10 or 15 clicks in both directions, a couple of times, and return to the exact values of your 0. You should hit your 0'ed group. I have seen a few higher dollar scopes not be able to do this where I have seen a WM CP scope realign every time (which is why I now have 4 of them).

Another thing to do would be to be sure you have enough elevation adjustment for 600 yds. It should be around a 60" drop with a 100 yd 0, so if your scope only has 30 MOA of elevation, you will have to shim it so you can get 0'ed in at a point that will give you 60" of adjustment. I'm guessing with that scope you'd have to shim it so it is bottomed out at 100yds, this way, you have the full 60 MOA instead of just 30 from center. Only shooting it out that far with a spotting scope will tell the tale.

Lastly on easy start stuff is make yourself a drop chart. This will help you, a lot, with long range stuff at intervals of 50 yds (if you wanted intervals that close) otherwise, the holdover works at any distance once you've dialed your turrets to that distance (in other words, if you're adjusted to 550 yds, you can holdover to 600 and get your coyote). Use a drop chart already made as a reference and fine tune your chart to your rifle. This is time consuming, but it is a hoot to figure out. Remember that technique plays a big role. You can't have the muzzle going all over when you squeeze the trigger. A good rest is a huge plus, or a very steady hand on a bag. And when you're practicing, don't let your barrel get hot. A hot barrel will spoil your scope adjustments and have you going in circles.

There's a ton of info out there on long range shooting. Try to read and study as much as you can.

[*Klutch*]

I shoot a .243, and 600 yards is not difficult to obtain. Bullet BC plays a lot in how far you can go, along with how much scope adjustment you have. I typically dial for elevation and hold for wind. I'm pushing a Hornady 87 gr. VMAX at 3150 fps out of a Savage.

600 is difficult for me as I haven't gone out to that range. Also I'm working with a new rifle and scope so I have that hurdle to jump too. I like the 80gr sierra's but otherwise I shoot 100gr interlocks and 95gr SST's. I'm considering trying out the 95gr VLD

[bogey1]

A damn good spotter is what you should have. Then take it from there. JMO.

[aubie515]

If you really want to get into long range shooting, you are going to need to chronograph your ammunition. Knowing what your ammunition is going to do at distance is going to help you.

Holdover with short distances isn't a big deal, but it is the further you shoot. When you hold over at longer distances without knowing your velocity, you are just guessing when you take the shot.

You can build up your Savage...if you are going to stick with 243, I'd suggest swapping barrels for a 1:8 twist, so you can shoot heavier projectiles...IE 107gr or even better yet the 115gr DTAC bullet.

The 243 will go beyond 1,000 yards with the heavier bullets.

I wouldn't say you "need" mil dot...I do not like the old traditional mil dot since the dots blocks too much of the target. I prefer hash marks to traditional mil dot.

If I were you, I'd dump your current optic and get the SWFA SS 12x in MRAD with Mil-Quad Reticle. You can buy one new for $300 or used they typically run around $250.

I prefer MRAD over MOA, but that's a personal choice.