P38

[cruzans]

So still looking for a decent P38 at a good price. Can any experts out there tell me if $495 is good for "force matched" one that is advertised as in great shape, almost look unissued so nice. Import mark on front of grip so discreet. No choice of manufacturer or grip color. I'm not looking for a museum piece, just one that is in good shape, has waffens, and is a shooter.

[TJB63]

Not a P38 Expert by any means, But I believe that's pretty average for an RC P38.

They are Great guns and a lot of fun to shoot.

TJ

[Ecclectic Collector]

That is a "fair" market price for what essentially a parts gun of that vintage but not that great a bargain. If you are buying it as a shooter, condition is everything since it has no real collector value at this time.

Originals with matching serialed parts tend to go from $700 to about $900 if you pay market value.

[cruzans]

That is a "fair" market price for what essentially a parts gun of that vintage but not that great a bargain. If you are buying it as a shooter, condition is everything since it has no real collector value at this time.

Originals with matching serialed parts tend to go from $700 to about $900 if you pay market value.

Thanks, that's about what I figured. Probably better to wait for one in the $800 range and have both a shooter and some value I guess

[Ecclectic Collector]

The most common (meaning most affordable) P.38s out there are the byf 43 & byf 44 series made by Mauser.

The Walther built guns are coded ac. Those from the same years are also amongst the most common, but generally bring higher prices.

Spreewerk (cyq) guns bring the least money, but tend to be really rough looking since they are covered in tool marks and the quality really goes down quickly the later the production. I've never owned one though so I can't tell if the rough appearance really affects how well it works.

If you are thinking of buying a particular gun, take off the slide and look at the locking block. It should have the last two digits of the serial number on it. If not, you have no idea if your gun's barrel was tested to work with the slide & frame it is on.

Any gun with an "X" stamp is actually a Russian capture gun. The X is actually two crossed rifles. Russian capture guns were dipped in a preservative coating leaving a uniform dark matte finish. The locking block was originally left in the white, so another way to tell a Russian capture gun is if it is dark finished.

Check out the P.38 forum (p38forum.com/) if you want to really learn a lot about all the variations as well as what to avoid (at least from a collector standpoint).

[cruzans]

The most common (meaning most affordable) P.38s out there are the byf 43 & byf 44 series made by Mauser.

The Walther built guns are coded ac. Those from the same years are also amongst the most common, but generally bring higher prices.

Spreewerk (cyq) guns bring the least money, but tend to be really rough looking since they are covered in tool marks and the quality really goes down quickly the later the production. I've never owned one though so I can't tell if the rough appearance really affects how well it works.

If you are thinking of buying a particular gun, take off the slide and look at the locking block. It should have the last two digits of the serial number on it. If not, you have no idea if your gun's barrel was tested to work with the slide & frame it is on.

Any gun with an "X" stamp is actually a Russian capture gun. The X is actually two crossed rifles. Russian capture guns were dipped in a preservative coating leaving a uniform dark matte finish. The locking block was originally left in the white, so another way to tell a Russian capture gun is if it is dark finished.

Check out the P.38 forum (p38forum.com/) if you want to really learn a lot about all the variations as well as what to avoid (at least from a collector standpoint).

Thanks!...........