Tweaking a Pro Raptor

**93-in-a-55** · October 16th, 2013, 10:04 PM

Good evening, all,
I love the 1911 as much as life itself, and I've been hauling around a stainless Pro Carry II for a few years now. She's sweet, but I'm getting a killer deal on a Pro Raptor from a buddy, and am thinking of making that the daily companion. One thing that's always sort of bugged me is the takedown method for these bull-barrel beasts, you're almost dependent on that goofy guide rod plug tool. Does anyone have any idea how a 4" bull barrel gun would react to running a standard A1 spring guide and spring plug if I ditch the full-length set up? This would be for simplicity's sake only, as tearing it down would be much easier. Any thoughts are welcome. I'll inquire about bypassing the Schwartz safety later.

**harold63** · October 17th, 2013, 03:28 PM

Originally Posted by 93-in-a-55

Any thoughts are welcome.

I have one bull barrel 1911 and I really don't find the tool thingy an issue. I did a little research on this a while back just because I was learning the ins and outs of the pistol and what you can/could/should/shouldn't do to a 1911. If you do this, you'll want to be sure the parts you buy fit properly and do not cause any peening. If you do not know how to fit a GI guide rod in this gun to be sure it isn't beating your frame, you'll want to get a good 1911 smith to make the adjustments needed so it doesn't peen. Nothing worse than taking your gun down and see parts of the frame, lugs, lower lug, etc; banged up. These adjustments may be minor, but it's doubtful the bill will be. The Raptor being stainless, it may not even be an issue, but I'd want a perfect fit just for the anal factor.

Here is a comprehensive video selection of a bloke who put parts in his commander without fitting them, to which he decided to go back to the original set up. My personal opinion, not that it matters too much, is to leave it as it is. It's not that much trouble, really, to use that tool. Who really needs to field strip their bull barreled commander in the field unless they are in some kind of combat? We carry our guns to the range or to work and then carry them back home. We can always find a way to field strip one, even if we lose the take down L tool.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28qeWIdxyNc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEipeSlE9J0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuM_rwhLjWg

**93-in-a-55** · October 18th, 2013, 10:20 AM

Winmag, thanks for the reply. I took the Raptor down yesterday and compared the recoil parts to those of a Springfield GI, and I think you're right on that it may be a little too much effort and/or cash to fix something that already works. I agree with you on needing everything running smoothly as designed inside, and luckily the internals on this one still look good after the use it's seen. I've just got this thing where I need to be constantly modifying stuff, but I'm starting to learn. I think. Thanks again.

**ShooterInPA1** · October 18th, 2013, 04:03 PM

Originally Posted by 300WM

My personal opinion, not that it matters too much, is to leave it as it is. It's not that much trouble, really, to use that tool. Who really needs to field strip their bull barreled commander in the field unless they are in some kind of combat? We carry our guns to the range or to work and then carry them back home. We can always find a way to field strip one, even if we lose the take down L tool.

I have the Kimber Ultra CDP and hear people complain about the takedown tool all of the time but my opinion is similar to yours. It would be an issue for me if I was in a remote place like in the mountains of Afghanistan and needed that tool to take the gun down, but I'm not.