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Thread: Need a FN/Fal Gunsmith
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February 21st, 2013, 08:30 AM #1
Need a FN/Fal Gunsmith
I need help finding a good (somewhat local ) gunsmith that can help me finish a FN/FAL build. To the best of muy (limited) knowledge i just need to have it headspaced and test fired. I am located in the Far Far Northeast (Phila).....Thank you...................Ogar615
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February 21st, 2013, 08:34 AM #2Grand Member
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Re: Need a FN/Fal Gunsmith
Sean at CDI in Chalfont Pa would be my first choice,his number is 215-996-1603. You are just down the road from him,Brian/EFR
www.EastonFirearmsRefinishing.com Owner/Operator, NRA Pistol Instructor
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February 21st, 2013, 10:51 AM #3Banned
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Re: Need a FN/Fal Gunsmith
I do FAL's. Built about 20. Have all tools necessary. Is the barrel on the receiver? after it's head spaced you will need to purchase a locking shoulder.
If it just needs to be head spaced, no charge. I am in West Allentown, just off rt 309.
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February 21st, 2013, 01:16 PM #4Banned
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Re: Need a FN/Fal Gunsmith
having built dozens of FNFAL myself, i can offer a bit of advice.
i assume that you have installed the barrel top-dead-center. if not, you won't be able to get good windage adjustment and your gas piston may bind.
i assume that you hand tightened to about 10:30 or 11:00 before being forced to torque. this will result in about 90 foot pounds torque, and keep your barrel stable.
i assume that you used a little never seize on the threads of barrel, so it can be taken off later without galling.
i assume that your kit had a locking shoulder that you installed in the receiver.
if so, you can check headspace yourself.
open the action and remove the dust cover
remove the bolt and carrier
remove the bolt from the carrier
remove the firing pin from the bolt.
take a round of in spec ammo (surp nato ammo if possible, or commercial 308).
place it in the front of bolt under the extractor.
slide the cartridge into the chamber and bolt into it's battery position, pressing the rear of it down so that the vertical locking face comes into contact with the locking shoulder and the rear underside of bolt is down against the floor of the receiver.
if this fits, you have at least minimal headspace.
remove the cartridge and add a thickness of standard scotch tape to the rear of the cartridge case, trim with a razor knife, and repeat.
you should get 1-2 thicknesses of tape on before it takes "two thumbs pressure" to get the bolt to set down into lockup in front of the locking shoulder. this would be 3 thousandths "headspace", ideal for safe function and accuracy.
if you can get the bolt into battery with more than 3-4 thicknesses tape you are getting into "field" gauge turf with 5-6 thou. this is not dangerous, but allows case stretch that is bad if you intend to re-use the brass. it is, however, better suited for field condition reliability, in which cartridges and your gun may not be perfectly clean. do not use reloads in or reload for a gun with field headspace. stay with berdan primed surplus.
over 6 thou is not good. at about 15-20 you will get reliable case head separation and gas venting into the action, which will blow out your magazine etc.
if you have a dial caliper you can validate my 1.5 thou per thickness standard for your scotch tape.
headspaced lots of rifles this way, no ill effects, totally reliable.
if the cartridge and bolt assy will not lock down into battery without tape, you need to reduce the locking shoulder or replace it with a smaller one. estimating size for replacement can be done with drill rods. grinding to thickness is prolly a little over your head, but has been done successfully by many builders.
remember to lightly grease the bolt ways before test firing and adjusting gas nut. dry bolts require excess gas flow. shortened barrels also require more gas flow. if you went below 18" you will prolly need to drill out the barrel gas vent to .108" from the standard .098" (number drills in the mid 30's range). if your gas selector is not tight, your gas tube worn, or your piston loose you will need to replace/adjust to tighten the gas system to get good full cycle. when testing cycling start with 1 cartridge fed from mag, then go to 3 cartridges to test semi-auto function. adjust gas nut to allow for function with a full magazine, which will add pressure to bottom of bolt in cycling.
congrats on your new best friend. FAL are like pringles. you can't have just one. PM me if you wanna talk by phone.Last edited by justashooter; February 21st, 2013 at 01:30 PM.
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February 21st, 2013, 06:17 PM #5
Re: Need a FN/Fal Gunsmith
Thank you for the quick responses, i will have to see what my next step will be, I have been swampped right now but need to get this gun done.....Ogar615
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February 21st, 2013, 06:39 PM #6Grand Member
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Re: Need a FN/Fal Gunsmith
Howdy neighbor! Getting cold out, time for a dune buggy ride to Cabelas!
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February 21st, 2013, 11:22 PM #7
Re: Need a FN/Fal Gunsmith
@ Manxdriver yeah man as soon as some of these meetings slow down. We need to restart having some fires soon too
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February 21st, 2013, 11:34 PM #8
Re: Need a FN/Fal Gunsmith
First off, I am by no means an expert.... that being said what has been done so far is its a metric kit and the barrel is on the receiver (timing is correct?). I have had help from a friend who is a gunsmith but his time is severely limited right now. He has told me that all that needs to be done now is head spacing........Ogar615
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February 22nd, 2013, 12:04 AM #9
Re: Need a FN/Fal Gunsmith
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