Winchester 1987 question.

**Klink Eastwood** · January 22nd, 2013, 02:20 AM

I just bought a winchester 1897 at my local gun shop. I beleive it to be made in 1901 from the serial number and some info I found in the Internet. But the problem I seem to be having is it seems like it dosent want to stay in battery. You pump the slide but if you put even the slightest amount of pressure on it goin backwards the bolt opens, but other times it locks up solid. I've shot it probably 40 times and have had no problems firing or cycling. I'm just not crazy about the bolt comin open when I don't want it to. I'm pretty sure the lock up area is under the hammer behind the bolt (I have no experience with this firearm) but I'm not sure if that's just the nature of the beast with that said shot gun or the fact that maybe she's wore out from over 100 years of bein used. If anyone has any input it would be appreciated. I don't know if I should just keep shooting it or try to find possibly a new locking block or bolt. Thanks

**XTrooper** · January 22nd, 2013, 06:51 AM

At one time, I owned a Winchester 1897 riot gun. It it not "the nature of the beast" for it to come out of battery, as you describe. Something is wrong though I can't tell you what. It's been too long since I've handled one to help.

Maybe you could find a manual or schematic for it?

**Chazman321** · January 22nd, 2013, 07:30 AM

Sometimes in pump guns the locking lugs become worn from use or can get filled with crud. If they're worn then what needs to be done is the lugs on the bolt and in the receiver need to be reformed. A really good gunsmith should be able to do this. They weld the lugs, build up the metal, and then shape and shave them down back to how they came from the factory.

However, I think the problem is improper care as the most likely reason. Buy a big ol can of Ronsol lighter fluid, disassemble it as well as you can, and just start squirting it in there. The amount of crud that will come out will probably surprise you. The fluid won't hurt the gun and will evaporate without leaving a residue, then just lightly oil the moving parts and try it out. Hit the locking lugs good with the fluid.

Guns are mechanical pieces with tolerances, even old guns will fail if something gets crudded in important places. Rule #1 of gun malfunctions is to take it apart and clean it!

I was once squirrel hunting and had a tiny piece of branch fall in the ejection port of my 500. Went to pump it and it locked up half way. Took me 10 minutes with a mallet on the slide before it closed back up and out popped this tiny little stick from the end of a branch. Got wedged in there and then locked it up once the extractor hit it... lol

-Chaz

**cdi** · January 22nd, 2013, 09:52 AM

There is something there.
I have several '97s and can service those old guns.

If that breech opens too soon on firing, someone could sustain a nasty injury.
I would stop firing it and get it to a gunsmith. Or, like my doctor says "suture self".

BTW, that gun was designed not to open until the operating handle is moved slightly forward and then backwards. The reason for this is to prevent unlocking the breech under high pressure.

**Klink Eastwood** · January 22nd, 2013, 07:14 PM

Cdi I messed with it a little more and I think that I must have just been being a little too rough on the action. If I close it nice and easy it locks up tight! So I'm gonna do a detail strip of the gun after work and clean and lube it up real good. I think I might be in business now! Thanks for the help fellas.

**cdi** · January 22nd, 2013, 07:36 PM

Excellent.
My son and I use a pair of them (1907 and 1917) for deer in 5c.
They are great old old shotguns.

**indianjack** · January 22nd, 2013, 08:37 PM

If you do decide to take it to a gun smith the best one I've found is:

Fayette Gun Shop
68 E Church St, Fairchance, PA
724-564-7720

Not cheap, and bit of a hike, but you get what you pay for.