Pennsylvania Firearm Owners Association
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February 14th, 2013, 09:22 PM
#11
Re: 10/22 fte
Originally Posted by
Just1more
I had same problem and sent back to Ruger - came back the same so we put in a Volquartzen extractor - much better although not perfect.
Already swithced extractor, and ejector.
Molon Labe
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February 14th, 2013, 09:23 PM
#12
Re: 10/22 fte
Originally Posted by
YBNORMAL
I would check the ejector like I mentioned, and maybe polish the charge handle rod.
This is a post I put together detailing some of the things that can be done to help with reliability and accuracy of the 10/22:
http://forum.pafoa.org/gunsmithing-4...r-10-22-a.html
The re contouring of the bolt where it acts on the hammer may be the ticket for you. It will allow the bolt to slide rearward easier (more force to kick that case out the side).
thank you. rep inbound.
Molon Labe
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February 14th, 2013, 09:53 PM
#13
Re: 10/22 fte
Try cleaning all the oil out of the gun. My 10/22 ran great till I got the idea to clean and oil it. Became a jammatic after that. I then cleaned the oil back out of the gun after someone gave me this tip and it ran fine after that. The 10/22 is one gun that does not like to be oiled. Worth a try............
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February 16th, 2013, 10:12 AM
#14
Re: 10/22 fte
Originally Posted by
Magman
Try cleaning all the oil out of the gun. My 10/22 ran great till I got the idea to clean and oil it. Became a jammatic after that. I then cleaned the oil back out of the gun after someone gave me this tip and it ran fine after that. The 10/22 is one gun that does not like to be oiled. Worth a try............
Now that's an interesting theory. Any concerns about wear and tear on an unlubed rifle? This rifle isn't seeing extreme use. The Ruger rimfire event is only once a month and it's about the only time it gets used. I've been cleaning and oiling it after each match and running it wet with Weapon shield.
Molon Labe
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March 4th, 2013, 06:55 PM
#15
Re: 10/22 fte
Originally Posted by
Magman
Try cleaning all the oil out of the gun. My 10/22 ran great till I got the idea to clean and oil it. Became a jammatic after that. I then cleaned the oil back out of the gun after someone gave me this tip and it ran fine after that. The 10/22 is one gun that does not like to be oiled. Worth a try............
Cleaned and wiped dry the receiver, bolt and spring. Used the rifle at the rimfire event yesterday and it ran 100%.
Thanks for the tip!
Molon Labe
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March 4th, 2013, 07:57 PM
#16
Re: 10/22 fte
Originally Posted by
cmcgowan
Cleaned and wiped dry the receiver, bolt and spring. Used the rifle at the rimfire event yesterday and it ran 100%.
Thanks for the tip!
Glad to hear it worked for you. To reduce wear you can apply a light oil very sparingly with a Q-tip to the areas where the bolt makes contact with the receiver. That or use dry graphite.
Its funny how some guns run best bathed in oil like my HK's and belt feds, where other guns like the 10/22 hate oil. I ran into the same thing on a Suomi M31 recently...found it is a jamomatic oiled, but runs like a champ dry.
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March 4th, 2013, 09:17 PM
#17
Re: 10/22 fte
Originally Posted by
Magman
Glad to hear it worked for you. To reduce wear you can apply a light oil very sparingly with a Q-tip to the areas where the bolt makes contact with the receiver. That or use dry graphite.
Its funny how some guns run best bathed in oil like my HK's and belt feds, where other guns like the 10/22 hate oil. I ran into the same thing on a Suomi M31 recently...found it is a jamomatic oiled, but runs like a champ dry.
^^^^^^^
This
Ever pick up a metal item, thinking it was dry, only to discover "Ugh, it has lube on it!" ??
I call that "contaminated", with a thin film of lube. Over-lube a rimfire, and rimfire soot + lube form a sludge, which cause problems after enough sludge has accumulated. One drop of lightweight oil (even CLP is good for this) and wipe away almost all of it, enough is left behind to protect moving parts from excessive wear.
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