Headspace gauge for k98?

[carrguy1]

I just ordered headspace gauges for 7.62x54r to test out my Mosin before I shoot it and to test any future Mosin purchases I may make. I also have a 1941 German k98 8mm Mauser that I'd like to get gauges for and test as well (also haven't fired it yet). I was thinking about getting Forster gauges from Brownell's but I hapened to be reading about the gauges on Forster's web site and they mention that at some point in the 8mm Mauser history the shoulder on the cartridge/chamber of the rifles changed from 20 degrees to 19 degrees. They say that the earliest record of the SAAMI specs being 19 degrees was in 1980 and that there is documentation of the 20 degree shoulder from 1938 to 1947. They recommend that older guns in 8mm Mauser should be tested using their gauges meant for the older 20 degree shoulder. I'm' guessing that a 1941 k98 would be considered "older" and would use the 20 degree shoulder guages but I would like anyone that might know more to chime in.

If it helps, the gun has a matching bolt and receiver. I've read some suggestion that a matching bolt and receiver may not need to be checked for headspace as much as a non-matching set would (my Mosin is non-matching or force matched) Thanks in advance.

[762xIan]

The matching bolt is nice, and personally I wouldn't bother going that far for an expensive gauge you will probably use only once. But you are correct, the "older" gauge would be the one you want for this. I would only order a Field gauge myself, if the bolt closes on a Field, your chamber is done.

I have 4 myself, and have never seen one with excessive headspace. I prefer to shoot moderate loads (I reload) and look at the ejected case. It will tell you far more about your chamber than the gauge.

I would get a box of US ammo, which is usually loaded pretty anemic for the 8mm, do a test fire, and check the fired cases out carefully for signs of case seperation. Then I would do the same with whatever ammo (surplus I assume) you will be using most of the time.

If you really want it checked, I would call around to gunshops and ask if they could check headspace and what they charge for the service first, it may be cheaper and something that could be done in a few minutes.

[carrguy1]

The matching bolt is nice, and personally I wouldn't bother going that far for an expensive gauge you will probably use only once. But you are correct, the "older" gauge would be the one you want for this. I would only order a Field gauge myself, if the bolt closes on a Field, your chamber is done.

I have 4 myself, and have never seen one with excessive headspace. I prefer to shoot moderate loads (I reload) and look at the ejected case. It will tell you far more about your chamber than the gauge.

I would get a box of US ammo, which is usually loaded pretty anemic for the 8mm, do a test fire, and check the fired cases out carefully for signs of case seperation. Then I would do the same with whatever ammo (surplus I assume) you will be using most of the time.

If you really want it checked, I would call around to gunshops and ask if they could check headspace and what they charge for the service first, it may be cheaper and something that could be done in a few minutes.

Thanks for the tips. I may just go ahead and get one though because I figure if I ever decide to get another (a yugo maybe since they're not too expensive) I'll have the gauge to do the spot check myself (like at a gun show, same with the 7.62x54r gauge).

As for the ammo, I have several boxes of new/newer production PPU non-corrosive and I have maybe 100-200 Portuguese surplus (also non-corrosive). Are you thinking that I should try the PPU first? I may eventually reload for it.

Here's another question: if the chamber/cartridge shoulder angle changed over the years does it ever cause a problem shooting new factory production cartridges in an old gun if the new cartridge has a different angle shoulder than the old chamber?