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Thread: Worst part of building an AK
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January 9th, 2013, 10:16 PM #1
Worst part of building an AK
Is the blankety-blank shepards hook. I know all about the retaining plate and it came today in the mail. But 3 days ago I just had to put it together to try it.
So in I go bending that stupid little wire around where there isn't enough room to put 2 fingers and you need to use both hands. Needle nose pliers, a little screwdriver and a bent up paperclip and I'm done. Plus a couple of beers and a few swear words.
Was it designed like that to keep soldiers from ever messing with the trigger? Cause once you took one out and had to put it back you wouldn't do that again.
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January 10th, 2013, 08:33 PM #2
Re: Worst part of building an AK
It may sound crazy, but they get easier with the number of them that you do.
The resident Saiga snob
"You will never leave Harlan alive..."
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January 10th, 2013, 08:45 PM #3
Re: Worst part of building an AK
Joe should know , he's had enough of them apart !
DAN
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January 10th, 2013, 09:18 PM #4
Re: Worst part of building an AK
REPOSTSimple procedure to remove the firing control group disassembly for either replacement with a G2, or fixing it yourself.
I don't recall any tools required, but I do recall bending a paperclip to make spring installation easier. Discussion that contains commentary about the so-called Shepards hook (details) is a very good indication the participants have actually done full receiver disassembly. This is the wire spring that holds all the major pins in the receiver. Without it, the pins will walk out and tilt, causing malfunctions.
Since there's some variation between models, I suggest taking a digital photo or making several detailed drawings of your example. See image, below.
Here's another option: a sheet steel replacement:
Offered by Blackjack Buffers, The American Parts Company (TAPCO), Red Star and others.
I've done both single and double hook trigger replacements, and both work as advertised. I have been very pleased with the trigger pull characteristics of the G2, both single and double hook. I haven't noticed a significant difference in performance between the single & double hook trigger, some AKs will require a minor receive mod to accept the double hook.
Disassembly & reassembly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEzSi1v8R2c&t=1m34s
Modifying it yourself:
First, a few caveats:
- This information is provided for your enlightenment. Any modifications you perform, you do so at your own risk.
- The images shown here are drawn for relational interaction, and not drawn to exact scale. I have not attempted to replicate exact scale due to the large variations in AK dimensions.
All images enlarge with a mouseclick.
Trigger slap is the sensation of the trigger rebounding or "slapping" the shooter's trigger finger during firing. The sensation is a sharp, abrupt forward jolt from the trigger when the rifle discharges. It can be consistent with every shot or intermittent, sometimes favoring one type of ammunition. For this reason, it's easy to misdiagnose this as an ammunition problem.
Trigger slap occurs when there's insufficient clearance between the hammer, trigger and the disconnector. When this happens, the force of the resetting hammer is transferred into the trigger through the disconnector, causing the trigger to abruptly "slap" forward.
Doubling is when the rifle fires more than one shot with a single pull of the trigger, and the rifle is not equipped for full auto fire. Sometimes the shooter may discover the hammer resting on the firing pin (released or fired position) on a loaded chamber. Pulling the bolt carrier back far enough to reset the hammer will often result in a successful discharge.
All of these common symptoms are caused by a minor defect in the disconnector, located in the fire control group (FCG). Fortunately it's often the result of too much material, so removing the excess will usually correct the problem.
First, we'll explore why the problems are occurring, and then we'll cover how too fix it without replacing a bunch of parts.
(See diagram) The disconnector rides on the same shaft as the trigger and is spring loaded forward. It acts like a see-saw and tilts forward until the forward pad rests on the trigger casting. Note that all points on the disconnector will execute a radial path around the trigger pivot pin (common axis). This will become important later.
During firing, the hammer retreats in a circular path back toward the trigger. Since the trigger has already been pulled and cannot retain the hammer, the disconnector secures the hammer until the trigger is released. During the process of securing the hammer, the hammer presses the disconnector back against disconnector spring pressure. The hammer overcomes the disconnector and spring, and the disconnector snaps back into position after the hammer passes, capturing the hammer.
When the shooter releases the trigger, the disconnector releases the hammer, and the trigger’s hammer hook now controls the hammer.
The aperture or opening gap between the disconnector and trigger hook must be slightly smaller than the hammer’s arresting pads. If not, the disconnector or trigger will fail to catch the hammer resulting in doubling, or a released hammer on a loaded chamber. In this diagram, “A” represents the aperture size and “B” represents the hammer dimension.
If the disconnector hook sits too far back, it will not consistently arrest hammer movement, allowing the hammer to ride up on the bolt during closure, or delaying the hammer briefly and subsequently releasing it before reset. This results in the doubling or dead hammer symptom, and is caused by too much material left on the forward pad of the disconnector.
With trigger slap, the disconnector isn’t able to retreat far enough back to allow the hammer to pass, so the disconnector pushes the trigger out of the way. The trigger transfers this motion into the shooter’s finger, creating the sensation of “slap”.
Fixing doubling:
You can correct this by replacing the disconnector, or by removing a small amount of material from the forward disconnector pad. The least amount of material removal that produces satisfactory performance is the correct amount. And, don't be seduced by the "more is better" philosophy. If a little's good, more isn't better. Don't take off more than necessary, or the disconnector hook may rest too far forward and actually try to block the hammer. If this happens, you'll need a new disconnector hook.The least amount of material removal that produces satisfactory performance is the correct amount.Fixing “slap”:
If there's too much material on the rear disconnector pad, it will lack adequate clearance between the bolt carrier, disconnector and trigger. This results in a chain collision between the bolt carrier, disconnector and the trigger. The energy is then transferred into the shooter's finger, producing the "slap" sensation. This can be corrected by removing just enough material on the rear of the disconnector near the spring well. Remove only enough to allow proper clearance, no more.
In the next diagram, note the colors. Blue is the area where you want to remove a small amount of material to correct doubling, and removing material from the red area helps correct trigger slap.
Typical Kalashnikov disconnectors (images taken from various internet sources)
This might help, also:
Gloria: "65 percent of the people murdered in the last 10 years were killed by hand guns"
Archie Bunker: "would it make you feel better, little girl, if they was pushed outta windows?"
http://www.moviewavs.com/TV_Shows/Al...he_Family.html
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January 11th, 2013, 09:29 AM #5
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January 11th, 2013, 09:36 AM #6
Re: Worst part of building an AK
I haven't had much experience with AK's, in fact, I've only ever shot one once. It was about 10 years ago. I had the opportunity to fire off a mag or two. I remember my finger hurting afterwards and I figured it was just something that happened with that type of rifle since I had never fired one before... now I know that it was just a sloppy trigger!
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January 11th, 2013, 11:59 AM #7
Re: Worst part of building an AK
PA Rifleman, great info. Thanks!
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January 11th, 2013, 12:03 PM #8
Re: Worst part of building an AK
I use the usually use the plates.... but if I have to use the the wire... I find the easiest way to get the little bastard in place... is to go to a craft store, like Jo-Ann Fabrics or Michael's crafts... and pick up a couple of Crocheting hooks.... they are dandy little tools for this job... and are available in multiple sizes, and are great for tensioning small spring "Legs" in hand guns.
I also bend the end of the hook in a vise to form a 1/2" "L", which makes it easier to pull heavy springs!
F.
Like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-12-mu...item2c6b6a6b2aLast edited by 1096369fred; January 11th, 2013 at 12:05 PM.
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January 11th, 2013, 10:00 PM #9
Re: Worst part of building an AK
I was using the bent up paperclip like a crochet hook. Pushing with the pliers and guiding it with the paper clip. Last night I tore the whole thing out and put in a G2 trigger with a retaining plate. So much easier. It was my first attempt at building one. A Rom. "G" kit I got cheap before the panic set in. Amfn is giving me a front sight post and it'll be done.
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January 12th, 2013, 01:17 AM #10Banned
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Re: Worst part of building an AK
MY GOD I JUST WONDER HOW ANYONE COULD BE DEVELOPING SUCH A COMPLICATED MODEL OF GUN.. I AM JUST UNABLE TO UNDERSTAND IT MUCH HERE IT NEEDS PROPER TUTORIAL TO GET IT UNDERSTOOD....
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