RANGE BRASS??

[M&PEE]

is it safe to use range brass that you find and dont know the origin of? what do you look for? is it just a visiual inspection or could there be hidden defects that could cause serious issues? i am seriously contemplating reloading but i like most am on a budget and looking for cost effective avenues but i dont want to skimp if it really isnt a safe practice.

[Pukindog]

First thing I look at is the primer. If it seems to be a reload I discard it. The reason being that if a reloader left it there must be a reason.
If the stuff is real grungy I discard it. Obviously, if Berdan primed I toss it.
Inspect the brass carefully; if it looks good go ahead and use it.

Jeff

[cephas]

Just my opinion but there is a risk with any component used of unknown origin. However being a scrounger at heart I do it all the time. These cases are then regulated to low/mild loads. Any cases with corrosion, especially in the primer and neck area, are not used. Take a good look at rifle cases just above the head for a bright ring, that may indicate head separation. I take a straightened out paper clip with a small bend on the end and check the inside of the case. Just run the paper clip up and down the area above the head to make sure it's smooth. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq8sAs2aBUw Attention is paid to the basics, especially case OAL. I clean the primer pockets and when seating primers make sure there is some resistance. Too loose of pocket indicates previous high pressure loads, or too many loads. Used to be I was pretty good at just visualizing what cases I wanted, but with todays cleaning methods heavily used brass can look almost new. I bypass reloading aluminum or steel cases but have passed them on to the scrap dealer. For cost savings there are places that sell just once fired brass.

[762xIan]

Pistol cases or any other "straight wall" cases are a non issue. I have pistol cases I have reloaded so many times I can't even read the headstamp on them. Scrounge all the pistol brass you can.

Rifle cases is where you may run into problems, but even then, once you know the signs of stress that rifle brass has you will be fine.

I have gotten into the habit of looking over brass several times during my reloading production.

1. During tumbling
2. When resizing
3. When trimming/measuring if it needs trimming. This is when I usually find any problem brass because I am really looking at it. Case neck splits, that stretch shiny ring near the base meaning a seperation is coming, etc.

Scarf up all the "free" brass you can, because if you don't....I will!

[kimbershooter]

Scarf up all the "free" brass you can, because if you don't....I will!

I prefer he leaves the brass for me . I stop by the gun club a few times a week just to check for brass, and that's what I tell my girl too.

All kidding aside, if you learn what to look for I don't see any issue with range brass. I always figure at least 90% is once fired, all those guys that can afford to pay those crazy prices for factory ammo. And I am thankful for them, I havent bought factory ammo since 05, maybe longer.

[Yentl Marmelstein]

I buy brass from indoor ranges that sweep it up and resell it.

Usually, it's once-fired brass that the shooter bought from the range.

[Rainier42]

I pick it up all the time ... both pistol and rifle. Just inspect it real well as you are processing it and toss anything that may be suspect. For rifle brass, pick up LE Wilson drop in headspace gauges for those calibers you plan to reload for and toss anything that doesn't pass. Brass is the one reloading component I have never purchased.

[Grumpa72]

Some good advice here. I pick up ALL the semi-auto brass I see and I bet I don't have .1% of it that is bad. I have picked up thousands and I keep the 9mm and .45 while selling the .40.

My argument is that if you aren't loading off of the chart on the high side, you won't have a problem. I have never had a case failure and all I shoot and reload are range pickup pieces from and outdoor range.