AK-47 "Red Russian" wood refinishing tutorial (WASR)

[Svickstc]

looks great...good stuff

[leplat]

i like my wasr looking raw and not like a show room rifle but after seeing this thread i need to try this

[LifeInPa]

I used these instructions with awesome results.
If anyone wants to do the same, I can provide everything needed for free if you're local (Lower Bucks County) and wanna pick it up. Otherwise it'll just sit and collect dust in my garage... and eventually all go bad. Save you some bucks.

Even the foam brushes and sand paper.

PM if you want.

Hey Dog did you use a different finish? Your rifle seems more glossy which I like.

[Trap9]

Hey Dog did you use a different finish? Your rifle seems more glossy which I like.

yeah he did the Rit dye technique that was also posted in this thread

[LifeInPa]

yeah he did the Rit dye technique that was also posted in this thread

I had no idea the Rit Dye technique was that glossy, must be a better picture.

[Asmodeus6]

I had no idea the Rit Dye technique was that glossy, must be a better picture.

It's all in the top coat. The difference between semi-gloss and gloss is all that would take.

Or more layers of semi-gloss lightly sanded in between to build a depth in the top coat giving it more of a luster.

It could also just be the white background and better camera.

[LifeInPa]

It's all in the top coat. The difference between semi-gloss and gloss is all that would take.

Or more layers of semi-gloss lightly sanded in between to build a depth in the top coat giving it more of a luster.

It could also just be the white background and better camera.

It could indeed be the background. However I think I would go with your method since your AK looks perfect, I will have to find the thread you made.

[Trap9]

my wood did come out really glossy, but i didn't want it too ridiculously glossy, so i gently steel wooled it to make it look less glossy, but it still does have a nice shine

[Asmodeus6]

It could indeed be the background. However I think I would go with your method since your AK looks perfect, I will have to find the thread you made.

http://forum.pafoa.org/rifles-42/128...re-page-2.html

There you go. Don't mind the beginning. I was getting frustrated with the RIT dye until I figured out how to get it to do what I wanted.

[Noah_Zark]

It's all in the top coat. The difference between semi-gloss and gloss is all that would take.

Or more layers of semi-gloss lightly sanded in between to build a depth in the top coat giving it more of a luster.

It could also just be the white background and better camera.

Asmodeous makes a good point. Varnishes and polyurethanes are available in various levels of "sheen," the term given to the "glossiness" of the finish. Some tips on these finishes: The resins are naturally glossy when cured. Finish manufacturers thus need to add ingredients to knock back the sheen, IOW, reduce the gloss level. The principal ingredient is fine silica, essentially finely ground sand, dispersed in the finish resin. When you open a can of flat, eggshell, or semi-gloss varnish or poly you can see the silica in the bottom of the can as a cloudy layer. This MUST be STIRRED up thoroughly before use for the proper level of sheen on the end product. NEVER shake varnish or polyurethane! Doing so entrains air bubbles into the liquid which sometimes tend to remain on the applied finish, leaving a rough texture. Be sure to used a tack cloth to get any and all dust particles off the work, or else they become trapped in the finish film leaving a rough texture. Also, be certain to use a brush that is made specifically for varnishes and NOT for waterbased paints. Hold the brush at a low angle like 30 degrees (almost on its side) to the work as opposed to at 70 degrees to 90 degrees which tends to leave small bubbles. "Laying the finish" is the term used for application of varnishes and that describes the action needed with the brush. Also, NEVER push down on the brush such that the bristle pack "opens up" while brushing. This also deposits bubbles. Light sanding with 220 or 320 grit between coats and a wipedown with a tack rag helps eliminate bubble spots and dust particles from the final finish film.

I don't like a glossy sheen on firearm furniture. Makes it very hard to hold onto with wet hands. And polyurethane is great for gym floors but IMO has no business on firearm furniture. It is HARD to strip off when compared to other finishes.

For those who like the "Soviet Red" look on their AK furniture, I would suggest using Zinnser clear shellac after the dye job is thoroughly dry. The Soviets used shellac, and your red AK finish would be that much more authentic. Shellac is very easy to work with and dries quickly, is easy to repair, and easy to strip, and is inexpensive. That's why the Soviets used it. IMO, shellac is as natural for an AK stock finish as is the red coloration. It can't get any more authentic than that without becoming a $200 stamp collector.

RIT and food coloring are readily soluble in water and alcohol, and the carrier in shellac is denatured ethyl alcohol. If the dye is still wet, it will readily start to dissolve and leach into the shellac. A little of this effect is not a bad thing because it tends to add color to the shellac. However if there is a lot of dye residue on the surface of the furniture the shellac may look a little opaque or "muddy" with the dye. The only downside is that pronounced grain in the furniture may be a little muted.

Most of the above comes from 40+ years of woodworking and wood finishing experience, and while I admit that an AK stock or handguard isn't a dining room table, some folks are particular about the appearance of their shootin' irons.

Just sayin'.

Noah