Do you ever use the wrong sized brush intentionally?

[zachomega]

I was cleaning a bunch of pistols last night with my girlfriend and for as long as I have owned the gun, my Beretta 92FS barrel has always been disgusting. It looked like there was pitting along side of the lands or something. It would not come up with a 9mm brush or bore snake no matter how long I let the breakfree sit in the barrel. Even my copper solvent did nothing.

Last night I decided to try using a .40 cal brush. The brush seemed a lot harder (the actual material) but this might have been because it was designed for a larger bore.

However, a lot of the stuff that I thought was part of the barrel started coming out. Some of it in big chunks. The barrel still isn't perfect but it is night and day difference. I plan on cleaning it this way again.

I also have the same problem with my Colt 1991A1 barrel. I inherited it from its previous owner in a dirty state and cannot get it clean. I am thinking of going to whatever the next brush up from .45 is.

Is this a normal practice? I'm not really worried about damaging the barrel or lands as the brush slides in relatively easy still.

-Zach

[GreenBlood10]

I do for my Beretta M9 as well, the 9mm brush seems like you have to apply pressure to one side to get it to clean that side. It just seems a little small. I use the cheap nylon brush that came with my G27. It seems as though if it could cause damage, the nylon bristles would do less harm then the other ones. I'm interested as to what others think as well.

GB

[Steve_NEPhila]

I regularly use .40 cal brushes to give my revolver charge holes a scrub as well as the barrel a once over. I shoot lots of lead bullets and the leading can be quite tenacious. I have done this for many years and I cannot see any ill effects, accuracy has not suffered and the barrels/charge holes are fine. (some of those cylinders are titanium, to no ill effect)

Here is a tip for a nasty .45 ACP barrel, use a .410 brush. It is longer so each pass has more bristles and usually really stiff. Never reverse direction inside of the barrel with any brush, try to pass the brush in the direction of bullet travel and pick up some Hoppes Number 9. (Apply the No. 9 to the effected area and let it sit for 20 minutes before cleaning) Most brushes use aluminum retainers to hold the bristles, aluminum is much softer then barrel steel. However, to be safe make sure the brush retainer is not rubbing inside the barrel and you will be fine.

[UserNoMore]

I think the practice of using larger brushes to clean barrels has been going on for years. Be careful because something has to give and most likely will be the bristles of the brush. Be sure you clean out any fragments of the bristles which my be left behind. If those bristles are pushed through the barrel by a round serious damage could be the result. I have like using ultrasound cleaners as they do a very good job loosening age old grime.

[Brick]

I regularly use .40 cal brushes to give my revolver charge holes a scrub as well as the barrel a once over. I shoot lots of lead bullets and the leading can be quite tenacious.
Snipped

Have a look at these! They are great for cleaning the chambers on revolvers.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1..._CHAMBER_BRUSH

[Wiley-X]

Most gun brushes are bronze which is softer than the steel. I NEVER use the stainless steel brushes that are available.

[Rosco the Iroc]

I do when I use Sweet's. I don't want a blue patch unless there is still some copper in there.

[Flash]

I regularly use .40 cal brushes to give my revolver charge holes a scrub as well as the barrel a once over. I shoot lots of lead bullets and the leading can be quite tenacious. I have done this for many years and I cannot see any ill effects, accuracy has not suffered and the barrels/charge holes are fine. (some of those cylinders are titanium, to no ill effect)

Here is a tip for a nasty .45 ACP barrel, use a .410 brush. It is longer so each pass has more bristles and usually really stiff. Never reverse direction inside of the barrel with any brush, try to pass the brush in the direction of bullet travel and pick up some Hoppes Number 9. (Apply the No. 9 to the effected area and let it sit for 20 minutes before cleaning) Most brushes use aluminum retainers to hold the bristles, aluminum is much softer then barrel steel. However, to be safe make sure the brush retainer is not rubbing inside the barrel and you will be fine.

Agreed on the .40 brushes in the 357 cylinder and 410 in 45. Works real good, if you don't have a "Lewis Lead Remover" (which also workd for the forcing cone as well as the cylinder). That thing uses brass screen and you may have to work it pretty hard to get the fouling out.

Now as for reversing directions while in the bore, I have been doing that for quite a number of years without noticable effect on anything but the fouling. In fact, it seems to me to be a prudent move, though I only use nylon or bronze brushes, not the stainless steel. And Hoppes No. 9, lots of it. And always finish with cotton patches.

Flash

[Nate7667]

Do not fear damaging a bore with a bronze brush, rilfe or handgun. A stainless brush maybe. The friction of a bullet going anywhere from a 45ACP at 900fps to a 22-250/204/220Swift at near 4000fps is alot worse than your brush.
you may do more damage with a cleaning rod than the brush.

[CHEMICAL]

Always use a size up.