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August 8th, 2010, 07:06 PM #1
Thoughts on Duracoating? Anything will help
Long story short, I saw a video on youtube of a Remington 870 that had been refinished in a matte black and now I want to do mine. I've already sanded it down to a mirror finish and I've been keeping it oiled so it doesn't rust in the meantime. Is the shotgun being super polished going to affect how the duracoat turns out? How much do I need for the reciever, 18.5" barrel and magazine tube extension? Should 4 ounces work or do I need the 8 ounce bottle? I know that I'm supposed to degrease it before and then let it sit for a few days before reassembling it, any other bits of advice? I've never done anything like this before so I know it isn't going to be perfect but I'd like to be well informed so I don't totally F it up.
Last edited by Misery Loves Shotguns; August 8th, 2010 at 07:08 PM. Reason: Forgot something I wanted to ask . . .
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August 8th, 2010, 07:46 PM #2Junior Member
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Re: Thoughts on Duracoating? Anything will help
Greetings,
You should have a slightly rough surface for the duracoat to adhere properly. The following is from the duracoat website....
Surface Type - Surface Preparation
Aluminium: Blast with 120 grit Aluminum oxide, OR Lightly Sand with 600 grit sandpaper
Brass: Apply directly over, Use only for low wear applications (Display only)
Chrome: Strip off chrome first
DuraCoat: Lightly Sand with 600 grit sandpaper
Gun Blue: New or Very good condition Apply directly over
Hard Coat: Anodizing Apply directly over
Nickel: Blast with 120 grit Aluminum oxide, OR Lightly Sand with 600 grit sandpaper
Parker: Apply directly over
Polymers: All...Blast with 120 grit Aluminum oxide, OR Lightly Sand with 600 grit sandpaper
Stainless Steel: Blast with 120 grit Aluminum oxide, OR Lightly Sand with 600 grit sandpaper
Teflon: Blast with 120 grit Aluminum oxide, OR Lightly Sand with 600 grit sandpaper
Wood: Lightly Sand with 600 grit sandpaper
I can also say from personal experience that it is essential to properly degrease the surface for proper adhesion. The spray degreaser, TruStrip, they recommend really is the best option. It doesn't have to be that
brand, but the aerosol is convenient to use and dries almost instantly, you really don't need to let it sit for a couple of days after degreasing using this method. If you handle the gun/parts without some sort of glove
after degreasing just lightly clean the area with alchohol, as the oils on your fingers may interfere with adhesion. Duracoat dries to the touch in 20 minutes or so and you can reassemble it after 24 hours. You can then
start using it, but it will not be thoroughly cured for another 3-4 weeks, so just baby it for that period. You can clean the piece after 24 hours with conventional firearm cleaning compounds but refrain from strong
solvents like Gun Scrubber until the 3-4 week cure time is reached.
The smaller bottle should be enough, but go with the 8oz to to ensure your piece is thoroughly covered and properly layered. It will also provide a small reserve for touching up later if necessary. I also strongly
recommend you DO NOT use the compressed air cans for spraying with an airbrush. They are inconsistant in their pressure, freeze up and stop working, produce a lot of condensation that may end up spurting through
your brush, and don't last that long, possibly leaving you stranded in mid project. A compressor that can put out 20-30 psi is really a must.
Hope that helpsLast edited by Combat Jack; August 9th, 2010 at 10:38 AM. Reason: thought of more info
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