DIY plans?

[gnbrotz]

I'm looking for some simple plans for a simple (wood) IDPA target stand as well as a floor-standing rifle rack. I know there are numerous options, but I'm hoping you all could help narrow down the choices. For the rifle rack, an option to secure/lock the rifles in place would be considered, but not necessary for what I have in mind.

Thanks!

[normanvin]

I'm looking for some simple plans for a simple (wood) IDPA target stand as well as a floor-standing rifle rack. I know there are numerous options, but I'm hoping you all could help narrow down the choices. For the rifle rack, an option to secure/lock the rifles in place would be considered, but not necessary for what I have in mind.

Thanks!

The rifle rack can be as simple as a saw horse with some dowels set into the cross piece. This can be knocked down quickly for transport to the range.

[IV_Warrior]

How elaborate a stand are you looking for? Does it need to easily come apart to transport in a car? We have some wooden ones we use at the club, although we're using them less now that we've got metal ones made. Used PVC ones before, too.

The PVC ones were basically the one at this link.

The wooden one was simply a piece of 2x6, cut as long as an IDPA target is wide. (sorry, don't have a target or stand here at the house to measure things. but a search says they're 18") Two 1x2's (around 5-6 feet long) were drilled to countersink the screws that attach them to the ends of the 2x6. 2 holes were drilled through the "width" of the 2x6 to run 10 inch nails through to secure the target stand in place.

Here's a link to a wooden one that I've seen used at another club. Works like the PVC ones, but heavier than PVC or the wooden ones we have. Wish I could find a picture of one like ours......

[djturnz]

We use almost the exact design wooden stand that IV Warrior posted, except there is no back piece, so it looks like an H not an A if you know what I mean. We also put a shirt piece the same thickness as the uprights in the center of the gapped pieces, to ensure the width is correct, and snug.

Then I like to screw a piece of cardboard to the uprights, so that you can just keep changing paper. Unfortunately, with the uprights loose like that (not attached) they don't tend to hold paper very well without a cardboard backer.

[gnbrotz]

A bit of an update...

I've put the standing rifle rack on the back burner for now, but finally settled on a PVC target stand design found on the boxotruth site.

I'm also going to whip up a PVC bedside holder for my shotgun based on some pics I found on another forum.

I picked up all of the PVC I need for two target stands and one bedside holder for $25.00. I already have the cement to assemble the projects and the furring strips needed to complete the target stands.

I was hoping to find 1/2" x 2" tees to cradle the shotgun, but 1/2" x 1 1/2" were the largest ones I could find. From the photos, it looks like the two tees that cradle the gun are actually different sizes. I'm going to cut one of the ones I bought open and see if it will work. I'd also like to find something (thin) to line the tees where the shotgun will be resting to help protect the finish on the gun.

[LastManOut]

An Inexpensive Target Stand That You Can Build In A Few Minutes
How many times have you visited an outdoor shooting range and been forced to shoot at 25-yards because that's were the range supplied target hangers are located? However if shooting range rules allow, you can build your own wooden target stands that will permit you to place targets as close as contact distance to your shooting position.
The cost to build a wooden target stand is less than $10, and can take less than 15 minutes to assemble (depending on your skill). The materials and equipment that you'll need are:
1. One (1) 2x4 stud, 8-feet long (approximately $3)
2. Two (2) 1x2 boards, 8-feet long (approximately $1 each)
3. Eight (8) 3¼-inch 12d galvanized box nails (less than $1 total if purchased from the bulk nail bin)
4. Four (4) 2-inch 6d galvanized box nails (optional if brace is installed) (less than $1 total if purchased from the bulk nail bin)
5. Claw hammer
6. Measuring tape or yard stick
7. Masking or duct tape
If you want to make your job easier, many hardware stores/lumber yards will cut the 2x4 stud into 2-ft long sections if you ask. Some stores will perform this service for free, others will charge you a fee. The advantage of using this service is that the cuts will be square because the hardware store will probably make them with a radial arm saw.
You can also ask the hardware store/lumber yard to trim your 1x2s to 5½-ft long. You can then have one of the 30-inch residue boards trimmed to 27-inches long if you want to install a brace. (Hint: Save the short 3-inch piece of 1x2 to use as a spacer. See figure 2 for more information). By having the store cut your boards to length, all you'll have to do is nail the pieces together when you get home. (Plus you don't have to figure out a method for transporting 8-ft long boards in your car from the lumber yard to your home).
It's said that a picture is worth a thousand words. The photos and captions below should provide sufficient guidance for assembling your own target stand. Happy shooting!

Figures 1 through 4. Click on thumbnail for greater detail.

Figure 1.
Unassembled target stand components. If you have your 8-ft. long 2x4 stud cut into four 2-ft. long sections by the hardware store, all you'll need to assemble your target stand assembly is eight 3¼-inch 12d (twelve penny) galvanized box nails, a measuring tape and a claw hammer. If you want to build a sturdier target stand, an optional 27-inch 1x2 brace can be added to the basic assembly with four 2-inch 6d box nails.
Assembly hint: Measure all 2x4s and use the two that are closest to the same length for the cross beams.

Figure 2.
Assembled basic target stand. To ensure you obtain the proper ¾-inch gap between the two cross beams, sandwich small pieces of 1x2 board between the ends of the cross beams and secure them in place by wrapping tape around the beams. Nail the stabilizer legs to the cross beams with the eight 12d box nails. Before you nail the second cross beam in place, make sure you press the cross beams tightly against the 1x2 spacer while you hammer.

Figure 3.
Target stand with optional 27-inch 1x2 brace installed on one end. The brace is nailed to the top of the 2x4s using four 6d box nails.

Figure 4.
It works! Homemade target stand shown in use with a standard IPSC cardboard target. The IPSC target is stapled to two 5½-ft long 1x2 boards, which are then inserted into the ¾-inch gap between the two cross beams. If the target wiggles, you can shim the 1x2's by wrapping masking tape around their ends until they fit snugly between the cross beams. On breezy days, you can better stabilize the target by filling a couple of 1-gallon zip-lock plastic freezer bags full of dirt or sand and place them on the target stand for ballast. If the stand is used on uneven ground, rocks can be used as shims to stabilize and level it.
Total cost of this target stand, including the two 5½-ft long 1x2 boards, is approximately $6.00. Total time to assemble was less than 15 minutes.
IPSC cardboard targets can be ordered from Law Enforcement Targets at a cost .54¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

[gnbrotz]

I was hoping to find 1/2" x 2" tees to cradle the shotgun, but 1/2" x 1 1/2" were the largest ones I could find. From the photos, it looks like the two tees that cradle the gun are actually different sizes. I'm going to cut one of the ones I bought open and see if it will work. I'd also like to find something (thin) to line the tees where the shotgun will be resting to help protect the finish on the gun.

I was able to make the 1/2" x 2" tees work. I still want to find some felt or something to line the inside of the brackets the gun rests on to help protect the finish on the gun, versus just laying right on the PVC, but that should be a pretty simple detail to wrap up.

Some pics of my completed project:

It conceals excellently, even with just a sheet, and it's positioned so that when I reach over from a normal lying position, I can grasp the gun right at the trigger guard/safety area. I made the frame outline small enough so that even if used with a twin sized mattress, it won't stick out the other side of the bed, so this rack should work on any bed I may ever rest in.

[1713]

Looks good. Did you find something to line the holder to protect your finish. If not, would mole skin work. Might be to grippy?

[rockkrawler628]

that is awesome, good idea lining the holder.

[Connal]

Rep button foiled me. I really like that shotgun holster on the side of the bed.

Very clever.