AR15 Newbie Questions

[MMH]

Me thinks I want an AR15. I think I want a 'full size' heavy barrel, and not an m4, but am not 100% sure. Some general questions:

What is a ballpark price for an entry level rifle? I would want the flat top reciever (A3 ?).

Would it be cheaper building it myself? I'm not a gunsmith, but mechanically inclined (i.e. a gearhead). I kind of like the idea of building it myself - it would give me an opportunity to learn about the AR15 platform.

What kind of accuracy would an entry level rifle be capable of? What are realistic ranges for a rifle (20" heavy barrel)? What are realistic ranges for an m4?

What would be some recommended options if I were building (and how much more $$$): free floating barrel, trigger, etc.

[mrnyman]

Yes , it is very rewarding to build it yourself and you will learn so much about the weapon. I built 2 myself and they are superb, including the heavy barrel 20 inch you described.
Start with a good quality lower then buy a reputable Kit , it also depends on what weight ammo you want to shoot , 40 to 62 grain generally selects a 1-9 twist barrel 68 to 77 grain generall select a 1-7 twist barrel , .

You will save about $150 to 200 by building it yourself , but the biggest payoff is in the knowledge that you will gain.

Range , generally 500 meters Max on a 20 incher.

Nyman

[Lycanthrope]

Depends on the application. If you want to shoot tight groups, get the best barrel you can buy (non chrome lined) and free float it. That's about all it takes to shoot .5-1.0 moa with an AR...... Barrel length from 16"-20" has no real effect on accuracy, just velocity.

If you can change your own brakes you can likely do a full build. A kit would be easy for you.

Lycanneedapplicationinfothrope

[MTechnik]

Depends on the application. If you want to shoot tight groups, get the best barrel you can buy (non chrome lined) and free float it. That's about all it takes to shoot .5-1.0 moa with an AR...... Barrel length from 16"-20" has no real effect on accuracy, just velocity.

If you can change your own brakes you can likely do a full build. A kit would be easy for you.

Lycanneedapplicationinfothrope

First rule regarding AR-15 stuff on PAFOA.ORG: Listen to Lycanthrope.

Anyhow, regarding your build, you have a choice on free-floating. There are 'Standard' m4 handguards that have the barrel floated under it, some rail systems free-float the barrel, or you can get the long free-floating tube as seen on lots of 'varmint' builds.

[SteveWag]

If you are not trying to compete in a match that requires specified rifle characteristics then you are pretty much open to go in any direction. The tube style handguard will give you a free floated barrel, get a 20” barrel without a front sight gas block, or one with a rail for a front sight. A stainless steel barrel is nice. Stay away from the chrome lined ones. Most kit suppliers offer a two-stage trigger by Rock River, it’s worth getting. As far as a high priced barrel, get a kit barrel, after you fire enough rounds (5000) replace it with a Douglas or Shillen(sp?). The kit barrel will shoot better than you, at first. Fast twist is nice, best if combined with handloading. I have had good luck with kits from Model 1 Sales and M&A Parts. Other members speak highly of Del-Tron. NRA HiPower matches are held at 600 yards with AR Clones having 20” barrels using 75, 77 and 80 grain bullets, Palma matches are shot at 800, 900 and 1000 yards using 80 or 90 grain bullets.
Steve

[Legion_Prime]

AS far as the SS barrel over the chrome lined, I'd go chrome unless you are truly going for the bleeding edge of accuracy. For the average shooter Chrome is the way to go. The pay off in barrel life and ease of cleaning is definetly worth the nominal sacrifice in accuracy. Noveske Rifleworks makes some excellent uppers if you are looking for a high grade upper without the whole assembly and parts hassle. The lower is too simple to do to justify buying it prebuilt. The hardest part is putting in the pin retainers. Easy.

[MMH]

Depends on the application. If you want to shoot tight groups, get the best barrel you can buy (non chrome lined) and free float it. That's about all it takes to shoot .5-1.0 moa with an AR...... Barrel length from 16"-20" has no real effect on accuracy, just velocity.

If you can change your own brakes you can likely do a full build. A kit would be easy for you.

Lycanneedapplicationinfothrope

Does a bull/varmint barrel help? Will a govt. profile be capable of such accuracy? Either way, I would free float the barrel.

[MMH]

... The tube style handguard will give you a free floated barrel, get a 20” barrel without a front sight gas block, or one with a rail for a front sight...
Steve

What is a front sight gas block?

[Lycanthrope]

Does a bull/varmint barrel help? Will a govt. profile be capable of such accuracy? Either way, I would free float the barrel.

A heavy barrel is more stiff (a slight edge to inherent accuracy) and will disperse heat a bit better (will not usually shift point of impact due to barrel heat as quickly), but a governement profile is fine for shooting 1moa or under with handloads.

The standard A2 sight tower is essentially the gas block but the term "gas block" is usually used when you have a railed model without the sight tower.

The gas block or front sight tower is where the barrel gases are vented into the gas tube which travels under the handguards back to the receiver and powers the bolt carrier when a round is discharged. The standard A2 sigh tower can get in the way of some scopes when shooting long ranges.

Lycanhastogotoworknowthrope

[MMH]

OK, so, not wanting to HiJack my own post, what about a AR-10? What are the pros/cons of AR-10 vs. AR-15?