Leather re-working

[LastManOut]

I have a holster for a gun I used to own and it almost fits another gun I have bu is a little bit loose. How could I best "shrink" the leather more tightly to form-fit the new gun?

[thetruepyromaniak]

found this on another forum http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=23166

Any way to "shrink" leather?

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A shooting buddy asked me this question the other day, and I didn't know what to tell him. Any way to very slightly shrink gunleather without ruining it?


No. The only leather that will shrink is rawhide. Holster leather can only stretch.
If his holster is too loose, he could try wet molding it to the gun. This won't shrink the holster, but will allow the leather to be molded to a form-fit.

I've been a holster maker for about 40 years, and this is how I do it.

First.....wash your hands. Any thing that touches the leather will either stain it or leave marks in the softened leather. If you don't want dye stained hands, wear plastic gloves.

Fill a sink with cool water and a couple of drops of liquid soap as a wetting agent.
Hold the holster under water for around 20-30 seconds, until it's damp, but not soaking wet.
OR:
Some holsters have enough oils in them that the holster may not wet properly. In this case, spray it with alcohol until damp, but not soaking.

Lay it on a clean cloth or paper towel, not newspaper, this will leave ink on it. Allow the leather to absorbe the moisture. This is known as "casing" the leather.

The leather is ready for molding when the leather feels dry but cool to the touch. Tan or brown leather will have returned to it's original color. If when you press on the leather, moisture appears on the surface it's too wet, allow it to case longer.
If you try to mold when the leather is too wet, it will not hold the molding properly, and the leather will stretch too much. If it's too dry, spray a thin coat of water on it and allow to stand for a few minutes.

Coat the gun with a thin coat of some rustproof lube and insert it straight into the holster without twisting. DON'T put the gun in plastic bags or wrap, this will leave the holster slightly oversized.

With clean hands, gently massage the leather around the prominent features like the cylinder, trigger guard, slide, and frame, pressing the leather into the hollows of the gun.

If you want the "detail" look where the leather is so closely molded you can see cylinder flutes or slide stops, use rounded hard plastic or metal tools to press the leather around the features as though you were outlining them with a pencil. My favorite tool is a 1/2" ball bearing attached to a handle. This "detail" molding usually isn't necessary, or even disireable on most holsters, but works well on open, no safety strap concealment rigs where a very tight fit is necessary.

After molding the leather, gently remove the gun, without twisting. The gun will be bone dry, but will need another coat of lube.
DO NOT leave the gun in the holster. The gun will rust, and the holster will stretch too much, ruining it.

Allow the leather to dry overnight. Keep it away from sunlight and heat. After it's completely dry, apply your favorite leather dressing. For a finish coat, I recommend Fiebing's Resolene. This is an water-based finish coat that won't crack, peel, or flake off. It's nominally waterproof, and seals dyed holsters.

When moldiing, be careful not to stretch safey straps or thumb breaks until they won't hold the gun properly.

Don't put too much leather dressing or oils into the leather, and NEVER use gun oil. If you want real leather oil, get a small can of 100% Neatsfoot oil, NOT neatsfoot Compound, which is fish oil with just enough neatsfoot oil to allow the use of the name.

You cannot completely waterproof leather, but I've had good luck on heavy duty field gear with THIN coats of Thompson's Waterseal. Although sold for wood decks, this works well for canvas and stiff leather. Thats it!!!!!

[XD40coyote]

Wet the leather, if it wets out, then you can put the gun ( unloaded!) into a plastic baggy and then insert into the holster and press the leather around the gun so it snugs its form. Let the leather dry with the baggied gun still inserted.

RE: the post above mentioning plastic bags. I have used a very thin clear baggy and have not noticed any fitting problems. I certainly do not have to break the leather in, and it is not at all loose in the holster. The bag is just to protect the metal of the gun. I had no problems leaving the gun in overnight in regards to the leather. This is oak tanned tooling leather, 8-10 oz weight.

[thetruepyromaniak]

Hope that was helpful, and a little fyi that was credited by Louis F. Alessi maker of Alessi holsters.

[thetruepyromaniak]

Wet the leather, if it wets out, then you can put the gun ( unloaded!) into a plastic baggy and then insert into the holster and press the leather around the gun so it snugs its form. Let the leather dry with the baggied gun still inserted.

RE: the post above mentioning plastic bags. I have used a very thin clear baggy and have not noticed any fitting problems. I certainly do not have to break the leather in, and it is not at all loose in the holster. The bag is just to protect the metal of the gun. I had no problems leaving the gun in overnight in regards to the leather. This is oak tanned tooling leather, 8-10 oz weight.

The problem with the plastic bags is if they press down on the raw side of the leather, taking away form the "roughness" that aids in holding the pistol into the holster, kind of like using the smooth side in.

[LastManOut]

Thanks guys. The holster happens to be an Alessi holster, so I'll use his method.

Thanks again!!!!

[XD40coyote]

Thanks for the info on the roughness of the leather, hadn't even thought of that. I went and used a small rasp and roughed it up and can tell the difference now, it indeed does seem to have a grip on the gun that wasn't there prior. I'm gonna rep you for posting that nice find from Alessi.

[jb12string]

If you call Lou, he may do it for you, maybe not, but hey, I'd think it'd be worth a shot

[Pure Kustom®]

If you call Lou, he may do it for you, maybe not, but hey, I'd think it'd be worth a shot

Lou Alessi died Feb. 21 2009

[LastManOut]

THAT would be a long distance call.