Car trouble

[jsb889]

Well, I know we have a few mechanics on this board and im utterly clueless, so hopefully someone can pinpoint the problem.

Its a 1989 Cutlass Cialias, 2.5 4 cylinder. Sometimes when you start it, it will have a very high idle that sometimes will or will not go away when driving. Other times, its fine at starting and driving, sometimes it starts high idling while driving. Its real random, and its been going on since I got the car-but only in the summer months. Wintertime it ran like a charm.

So, I figured the choke was sticking. Sprayed some choke cleaner all over it, and forgot to put the crankshaft hose back on. It ran like shit for about 2 days, progressively getting worse, and had lots of trouble starting. Eventually, it stalled out, so I took the air cleaner off and drove it home. I let it set a while before retrying, because even without the air cleaner on it wouldn't start until it sat a while. Got some new 5/8ths hose as a new crankshaft hose, but it still kept acting up and not starting. So, me and my dad decided it was the oxygen sensor and maybe carb cleaner got into the oil...changed the oil, air filter, oxygen sensor. It seemed to be fine, still high idled, but some slight starting problems that were attributed to a new O2 sensor and that they would go away.

Well, I went to wal-mart. Got in the car, slight trouble starting. Got out of walmart, and started right up. Checked my balance in my bank, (shut the car off) and she started right up. Went about a quarter mile and she stalled at a red light. She wouldn't start back up, but after sitting a while she did, but stalled again right after. So I pushed it off the road and got a ride home.

I have no clue what could possibly be wrong. Anyone have any ideas?

[jsb889]

Well damn, I knew it was weird but I thought maybe someone had an idea.

Well, I replaced the idle control valve today and now it won't start at all. Sigh. I think the computer can't read that its there...since it won't start. Why won't it start? Its a damn good question. I'm confused worse than a monkey put in an aquarium with scuba gear. GAH!

[fingers80002]

Well damn, I knew it was weird but I thought maybe someone had an idea.

Well, I replaced the idle control valve today and now it won't start at all. Sigh. I think the computer can't read that its there...since it won't start. Why won't it start? Its a damn good question. I'm confused worse than a monkey put in an aquarium with scuba gear. GAH!

I know blue oval, not gov motors. sorry.

[H.E. Pennypacker]

Dunno when they started putting these things in cars, but does it have a MAF?

[markheck1]

It will run with a bad Idle Solenoid, MAF, 02 Sensor...etc...those won't keep it from starting......Reset your computer by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes, then get your self a handy dandy scan tool...IE paperclip, and read the codes.



Listings of the trouble codes for the various engine control systems covered in this information are located in this section. Remember that a code only points to the faulty circuit NOT necessarily to a faulty component. Loose, damaged or corroded connections may contribute to a fault code on a circuit when the sensor or component is operating properly. Be sure that the components are faulty before replacing them, especially the expensive ones.

The Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) connector or Data Link Connector (DLC) may be located under the dash and sometimes covered with a plastic cover labeled DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR.

1. The diagnostic trouble codes can be read by grounding test terminal B . The terminal is most easily grounded by connecting it to terminal A (internal ECM ground). This is the terminal to the right of terminal B on the top row of the ALDL connector.

2. Once the terminals have been connected, the ignition switch must be moved to the ON position with the engine not running.

3. The Service Engine Soon or Check Engine light should be flashing. If it isn't, turn the ignition OFF and remove the jumper wire. Turn the ignition ON and confirm that light is now on. If it is not, replace the bulb and try again. If the bulb still will not light, or if it does not flash with the test terminal grounded, the system should be diagnosed by an experienced driveability technician. If the light is OK, proceed as follows.

4. The code(s) stored in memory may be read through counting the flashes of the dashboard warning lamp. The dash warning lamp should begin to flash Code 12. The code will display as one flash, a pause and two flashes. Code 12 is not a fault code. It is used as a system acknowledgment or handshake code; its presence indicates that the PCM can communicate as requested. Code 12 is used to begin every diagnostic sequence. Some vehicles also use Code 12 after all diagnostic codes have been sent.

5. After Code 12 has been transmitted 3 times, the fault codes, if any, will each be transmitted 3 times. The codes are stored and transmitted in numeric order from lowest to highest.


Go to autozone.com and register, and you can view a repair manual. and do yourself a favor and go buy a Haynes repair manual....it will save you time and money

[Rosco the Iroc]

I think you should check all the vacuum lines for cracks and if still hooked up. Along with the air pipeing behind the MAF if it has one and the throttle body.
Second check the PCV valve in you CYL head. It will have a vac line coming out of it to your throttle body. To check it you need to shake it and it should freely rattle. I had a clogged PCV do funny things to an '84 Cav with the same motor. $2.50 later it ran like a top.

Also if it does it when the eng is cold then it is not the EGR or O2. They are only used after the eng goes into closed loop mode when warmed up.
Open loop uses TPS, MAP/MAF, IAC, IAT.

[shefearsnothing]

and she started right up. Went about a quarter mile and she stalled at a red light. She wouldn't start back up, but after sitting a while she did, but stalled again right after.

Being a woman I think I'm allowed to say this...red bold is mine. SHE? There's your problem. Get yourself a HE. Women are more trouble then they're worth, no? (that's what I hear anyway)

[markheck1]

you know the old saying......if it's got T, errmmm use your imagination here,or Tires it'll give you problems.....

[7998]

It will run with a bad Idle Solenoid, MAF, 02 Sensor...etc...those won't keep it from starting......Reset your computer by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes, then get your self a handy dandy scan tool...IE paperclip, and read the codes.



Listings of the trouble codes for the various engine control systems covered in this information are located in this section. Remember that a code only points to the faulty circuit NOT necessarily to a faulty component. Loose, damaged or corroded connections may contribute to a fault code on a circuit when the sensor or component is operating properly. Be sure that the components are faulty before replacing them, especially the expensive ones.

The Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) connector or Data Link Connector (DLC) may be located under the dash and sometimes covered with a plastic cover labeled DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR.

1. The diagnostic trouble codes can be read by grounding test terminal B . The terminal is most easily grounded by connecting it to terminal A (internal ECM ground). This is the terminal to the right of terminal B on the top row of the ALDL connector.

2. Once the terminals have been connected, the ignition switch must be moved to the ON position with the engine not running.

3. The Service Engine Soon or Check Engine light should be flashing. If it isn't, turn the ignition OFF and remove the jumper wire. Turn the ignition ON and confirm that light is now on. If it is not, replace the bulb and try again. If the bulb still will not light, or if it does not flash with the test terminal grounded, the system should be diagnosed by an experienced driveability technician. If the light is OK, proceed as follows.

4. The code(s) stored in memory may be read through counting the flashes of the dashboard warning lamp. The dash warning lamp should begin to flash Code 12. The code will display as one flash, a pause and two flashes. Code 12 is not a fault code. It is used as a system acknowledgment or handshake code; its presence indicates that the PCM can communicate as requested. Code 12 is used to begin every diagnostic sequence. Some vehicles also use Code 12 after all diagnostic codes have been sent.

5. After Code 12 has been transmitted 3 times, the fault codes, if any, will each be transmitted 3 times. The codes are stored and transmitted in numeric order from lowest to highest.


Go to autozone.com and register, and you can view a repair manual. and do yourself a favor and go buy a Haynes repair manual....it will save you time and money

I think you should check all the vacuum lines for cracks and if still hooked up. Along with the air pipeing behind the MAF if it has one and the throttle body.
Second check the PCV valve in you CYL head. It will have a vac line coming out of it to your throttle body. To check it you need to shake it and it should freely rattle. I had a clogged PCV do funny things to an '84 Cav with the same motor. $2.50 later it ran like a top.

Also if it does it when the eng is cold then it is not the EGR or O2. They are only used after the eng goes into closed loop mode when warmed up.
Open loop uses TPS, MAP/MAF, IAC, IAT.

These guys gave the best advice, I guessing a vacuum leak. I check for vacuum leaks by spraying Carb cleaner around the suspect lines. If the car wants to die out than it's a vacuum leak. Replace the line and be on your way. BE CAREFUL NOT TO SPRAY IT ON YOUR EXHAUST! Also dont spray it as to where it will get in the throttle body cause that too will make it stall out.

[Frenchy]

you know the old saying......if it's got T, errmmm use your imagination here,or Tires it'll give you problems.....

I think you meant "If it has Tires or T its you can count on problems" Intentional Typo...